Jointer Project -- Cleaning and protecting metal

[Andrew McConaghy]

I recently came into a 50's to early 60's vintage craftsman jointer, 6" wide and about 36 inches long. Price was hauling it away. I've taken it apart to clean it up, and have discovered more rust then I thought was there. My current play is to clean the disassembled components electrolytically, but am wondering what the best long term protection for the non-wood contact surfaces, like the underside of the table the frame should be. Any suggestions? Also, the outside of the jointer was at one point sprayed with a horrible looking bronze-colored paint. If the electrolytic rust removal leaves that paint on, can it just be painted over, or should I try to remove it with another method?

Thanks for the advice, I can post some disassembled pics if you folks would like, and I will defiantly post some pics once the jointer is back together.

[Jason Neal]

Andrew, I recently used electrolysis for the first time to remove rust from a few parts from an old Unisaw I purchased. Most of the parts were bare metal but the internal baffle around the blade was a painted part with tons of pitch build up and some light surface rust. I scraped and ground off the pitch and it appeared the paint was well bonded. By the time I pulled it from the electrolytic bath, the paint just sloughed off with a brass brush. Granted I kept it in for a week and I didn't notice the paint lifting until probably 2-3 days into it.

That's was my experience but I don't know if that would hold true for any and every imaginable paint given the myriad of chemical makeups, surface prep, primer, and substrates.

[Andrew McConaghy]

Only the outer surfaces of my jointer are painted at all. If the electrolysis doesn't lift the paint, I guess I will just paint over it. Now just have to pick a paint and a color...

[Chris Tsutsui]

Assuming you're not going to powder coat anything, a 2-part epoxy is going to be the best choice for cast iron.

In general there are different grades of cast iron and these will contain about 3-4% silicone which actually helps prevent surface corrosion. So generally speaking, you are coating the cast iron mainly for the looks. If the metal is ductile iron then things will be different and you should coat it.

If you can't source 2-part epoxy then my next choice would be 2-part polyurethane coating. Removing all the existing paint and cleaning the metal of oil/dirt will help the coating.

[Don Jarvie]

Some good advice. I've done this a few times so here's what I have done.

1. Get the Manual. Look at Hammerwall.com or Sears Parts Direct. The manual will have the parts explosion so you can put it back together.
2. If the parts are greasy use Super CLean (purple bottle - conc). Use a scrub brush and scrub away. The Super Clean does take off paint, not like a stripper, but good enough.
3. I have a fine and course wire wheel in my grinder and clean all the parts that I can with it. Use a fine and course wire wheel in your drill for the big pieces.
4. All non-painted parts get the wire wheel to their original shine then a coat of paste wax.
5. All painted parts get the wire wheel to remove rust and loose paint. Once clean they get Rustolium Auto Primer and then Rust Enamel Spray.
6. Then put it back together and set it up.

Once tuned up you will have a great machine.

[Andrew McConaghy]

How do I tell if the metal is ductile or cast iron? There is marked surface rust on for example the underside of the tables, but it does not appear to be deep. The majority of the surface is "pebbly" like a rough sandcast, except for the parts that have been machined for mating surfaces etc. The only 2-part epoxy paint I've been able to find locally is that "garage floor" paint that gives dire warnings about use on horizontal surfaces. I am in a remote area, but could make a trip to Bakersfield or the LA area for supplies if needed.

[Don Jarvie]

Its probably cast iron given the era. While Chris is right regarding the paint its overkill for this machine. The cost of the paint is worth more than the machine to be honest. I've used rattle cans for my jointer, bandsaw, planer and lots of small vices etc and it does the job. Just get the rust off with a wire wheel annd the primer handles the rest.

In a few years your going to upgrade to a 8 or 12 inch jointer so save the good paint for that. I've used Benjamin Moore Low Lustre enamal on my TS and RAS and brushed it. It came out very good. If you want a high quality paint job you have to spray it similar to painting a car.

Invest in replacing the bearing in the cutterhead, get new knives and set it up right and you'll be happy.