The inside scoop...

[Dale Coons]

according to the 'jamieson school', when hollowing, one moves along slowly, using the hollowing tool to 'clean up the tool marks' every inch or so. teardrop cutters are held in low esteem.

Well, I'm just not that good (yet?) :eek: Whats a guy to do? after getting to a point where i'm happy with the outside, I'd like to be just as happy with the inside. I can see some ridges down in there. and i've got a teardrop from another hollowing tool...so i'm tempted. I just don't want to screw it up. the form is 7 inches tall with an opening between 1 1/2 and 2 inches. Not a lot of room with the boring bar in there.

So, what do you do with the insides? How do you clean them out? I think some of you sand in there--just around the top, or is there some secret to getting down inside? do you finish, or just leave au natural?

Inquiring minds want to know...:D

[Roger Chandler]

Dale,

I use a round carbide tip that came with my monster rig........it is like the ones on the Hunter hollowing tools. I have not used a tear drop, but the round carbide held at a 30 - 40 degree angle provides a shear cut. Light, very light passes is what is called for or you can easily make the inside diameter larger that the outside.........DAMHIKT!

[Curt Fuller]

I'm not sure why the teardrop scraper would be held in 'low esteem'. But then I'm from the school of 'whatever it takes'. My only caution with the teardrop scraper is that it can take a very big bite if presented wrong, resulting in a pretty violent catch or grab. I know from experience that you can destroy hours of painstaking hollowing in a hurry. Just apply the same Jamison School rule of moving very slowly while inside a form and everything should be just fine.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dale - I am sure we each have our own way of doing things and I would think your teardrop or a small round cutter would work fine in cleaning up the small area of ridges. The real key is to know (feel) where you are inside the form and then when you move the cutter - use your whole body and not just your arms to move the tool. The idea is you want the inside smooth and you can only get that by moving the cutter in a smooth and continuous motion. Make sure the cutter is freshly sharpened and use very - I say again - VERY light cuts.

For me, finishing the inside of HF usually depends on the form itself. Sometimes, if the opening is large enough, I will sand the inside using an extension bar to hold the 2" hook & loop sanding pad. Most times, the surface is left as is but I always use the same finish (usually wipe-on poly) on the inside of the form as well as the outside to help seal the wood.

[David E Keller]

Use the scraper! Curt's right about using very light cuts.

I think you should try any number of things until you hit upon the thing that works best for you. It makes me crazy to hear about demonstrators and teachers who insist on one method over another for everyone. While I agree with the idea that the 'preferred' method teaches took control and awareness, it's far from being the only way.

I'd say be safe and do what works best for you... I like the scraper sometimes.

[Gary Max]

Like David said---- you have to figure out what works best for you.
I will never forget watching (Big Name) turn one handed---no face sheild---looking at someone telling jokes, all at the same time.