Table Saw Alignment

[Jerry Bittner]

After I bought a new table saw, I kept my old Ryobi BT3 and use it just for dado cuts. Recently, I experienced some cuts less than accurate and did a runout on the blade. I found about .060 difference as I spun the blade almost 1/16 inch.

Question is I ran the test with the dado blade -- a relatively new Freud 8" --and wonder whether I should run the test again with a standard blade. Do you think it would make any difference?

Second question, assume it is that much off, is it worth it to replace the motor assuing the shaft or bearings are bad?

Thanks for help.

[Carl Eyman]

Is this a saw where the blade is attached to motor shaft vs. turning on its belt driven arbor? In the first case I doub it is worth replacing the shaft. In the second I wouldn't do anything to motor until necessary. I would however measure "the out of trueness" of the shaft and flange. If it is running true then the trouble is in your blade or you've got some trash in the way of it setting tight against the flange. If you find the shaft and flange are out then you need a replacement - maybe the whole arbor. Depending on the price you have a value judgement to make. LOL

[Jerry Bittner]

Yep I should have explained this saw has the motor direct driving the blade.

[Adrian Rogers]

I recently purchased a Jet cabinet saw (used) and was never satisfied with the cut. Recently, the bearings starting making a noise. While I had the arbor out (to replace the bearings), I took the arbor to a machine shop (at work) and had them chuck it up in a lathe and check the arbor to make sure it was straight. Less than .001 on each of the bearing surfaces. Next, they checked the face of the arbor flange and found .003 runout. They then turned that surface flat (took about 3 seconds). Anyway, long story short, my used saw cuts better than a new one with very little effort.

I would first check the arbor (or motor shaft if it's direct mounted) and then the arbor flange.
-Adrian