Hand Sawing and wood movement... what would you do?

[David Wadstrup]

Hello,

I have an enormous amount of hand sawing in front of me. All in 8/4 ash(I'm building a Roubo by hand). I've been taught that I should surface all sides and edges to help prevent the wood from warping, twisting, or cupping once it's been worked. So, I've been ripping the 5" wide strips I need out of 8" wide boards by taking an 1.5" off of each side. These strips are 8' long which means I have been making 2 8' long rip cuts per final strip. In other words, a whole lot of sawing. Here's my question: Do you feel this is necessary? Can I get away with justifying my strips to the edge of the board and making a single 3" cut to bring the board down to final width? I will after all be working the uncut edge with a handplane, and taking at least a little bit off of the surface. The lumber is at about 9% MC and is acclimated to my shop. Or do I need to continue taking off a more sizable amount by ripping? Does this make sense? What do you think?

Thanks for you suggestions,

David

[george wilson]

There is no telling what any given piece of wood might do. If it has been dried too quickly in a kiln,it can get "case hardened",and warp radically when it is cut or resawed. A guy I know had this happen to a load of curly ash he bought,and was resawing to make stair treads from. I bought a 2" slab from him to make a soild body guitar from. Might be the only thing the wood could be used for that wouldn't warp.

It is too bad that you must expend so much sweat to find out of the wood will remain stable. Other wood warping can come from reaction wood. Wood cut from a curved tree will warp when sawn up. No telling what can happen.

Can you cut one board on someone's bandsaw just to see if it remains stable,before you spend hours to find out the hard way?

[David Weaver]

>>Do you feel this is necessary?<<

no

>>Can I get away with justifying my strips to the edge of the board and making a single 3" cut to bring the board down to final width?<<

That's how I would do it handsawing no matter what, especially 8/4 hardwood. Presuming justifying means that you're jointing the rough edge.

with wood that's basically dry and in a stable environment, I don't think you have a lot to worry about no matter what.

[george wilson]

Wood can do crazy stuff even if it is the oldest,driest stuff you ever have seen. The harder it is,the worse it can stress relieve when you cut it. Boxwood is one of the very worst woods to try to keep straight,yet they made the best rules from it. We finally settled on Maraciabo,the only boxwood we could rely upon(mostly) to stay straight.

There is no guarantee it will stay straight even if he cuts equal amounts off each side. I do think it is wise to plane equal amounts off of the thickness of wood planks,though.

There was a spinet harpsichord in the Craft Shop sales outlet in Col.Wmsbg. It had a horribly warped lid. In about 20" width,it must have had a 2 1/2" bow. The makers had planed down a thick,antique walnut door to make the 3/8" thick lid. Probably didn't take equal amounts off each side. They thought the wood was stable since it was over 100 years old.

[George Beck]

One thing I have found is that if the wood is going to move it is going to move(usually poor drying or poor storage). After I re-saw lumber I always sticker and stack it carefully and let it sit for a week or so. If it is going to move it will but the even air flow and weight helps it acclimate evenly.