spriral cutter replacement on 8" powermatic jointer

[larry senen]

like the post about the 15" planer i want to be prepared for the change over.
it's a model 60 with the longer bed bought new in 94 i think.
so, new bearings?
should i remove it from the sheet metal base?
do i need a gear/ bearing puller?
going to buy from grizzly, what model have you used?
t.i.a. larry

[James Baker SD]

Somewhere in the mid 90's PowerMatic changed something on the 8" planer cutter head, don't remember what (diameter of end shaft I think, or maybe outer diameter of bearing. ..) In any case, I think it effects which Byrd Head you need to buy, so Grizzly may or may not have what you need. I dealt with Sunhill at the time and they told me what measurements to make and give them so they could send me the correct head (with new bearings already installed). They did not have what I needed, so I ordered it from Sunhill but it was shipped directly from Byrd

[Brian Gumpper]

It is the shaft diameter that is different. I've worked with customers on Grizzly machines where heads were changed on their own machines that they were not aware of. Make sure you get the correct one. If you want copied of the drawings, send me a PM.

[Chip Lindley]

so, new bearings?
should i remove it from the sheet metal base?
do i need a gear/ bearing puller?

t.i.a. larry

Yes-install new bearings on the spiral head before re-assembly.

No-absolutely no need to remove the jointer from it's sheet metal base. The two bolts that hold the cutterhead journals to the casting are in the center of that arched recess, bottom center of the main casting.

Maybe-you might need a gear puller to remove the pulley from the old cutterhead for reinstallation on the new spiral head. Also to pull the journals from the old bearings. Depends on how tight everything is.

Others can speak to which spiral head you need. An accurate set of measurements of the old head with dial calipers would help much.

~Chip~

[Matt Meiser]

I did an older PM50 and didn't need to remove the casting. Brian had the me the cutter head shipped to me with new bearings--not sure if they can always do that but if they can it was a great deal. Unless the design has changed much:

1) back the beds way down and move the fence out of the way or remove it.
2) remove the belt guard and belt
3) loosen the bolts holding the cutter head. You can get an open end wrench in between the casting and stand.
4) remove the pulley with a 3-jaw puller (inexpensive at Autozone)
5) remove the cups that hold the bearings. A combination of LIGHTLY and EVENLY prying and pulling by hand popped them right off.
6) reverse above steps on the new head
7) Realign beds, fence, etc.

It was maybe an hour job.