Newbie: Question about DNA soak?

[Doug Palmer]

Hello All,

I have been lurking for a while and have a question. I have done quite a bit of wood working, but I am just getting into turning. I recently purchased a Nova 1624 and am still learning the basics. I am one to do a lot of reading before diving in too deep. I have read quite a bit about the DNA soak process and have read Dennis' tutorial as well as Steve's tutorial on Hollow Forms, which I think I am going to be very interested in.

My question is, "What is the reason or purpose for the DNA soak?" I have only recently turned my first couple of bowls from some logs I cut, but didn't do a DNA soak. Did I make a mistake? Is the DNA soak to keep the bowl from warping later? Is it only needed for green wood? What about air dried wood?

Also, if I wanted to make usable salad bowls, is there anything special I need to know to make them food safe?

Thanks in advance for any comments.

[John Keeton]

Doug, there have been several threads recently on this process, but I think the consensus (if there is one!) seems to be that the DNA displaces the water in the wood, and when the drying process starts, the DNA evaporates at a quicker pace than does the water. It purportedly shortens the drying time, and reduces the propensity of the blank to crack and/or warp. However, there are many folks that do not use the DNA method, and there are also many that use other methods, including boiling, liquid dishwashing detergent, etc.

These methods are used only for green/wet wood. All commercial finishes are food safe once cured.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Doug - like John stated - there is much out there to read with regards to the DNA process. I use it and like the results but there are many who do not find it necessary to use and have great results with air drying. I honestly believe the real key to getting your green wood turnings to dry without cracking is to turn to an even wall thickness. That will allow for even drying no matter the method.

Here are a few links for you to read on the process - make sure to do a search here as well! Good luck!

http://alcoholsoaking.blogspot.com/2006/11/determining-alcohol-percentage.html
http://alcoholsoaking.blogspot.com/
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=turning&file=articles_473.shtml

[John Hart]

Yeah....what they said. And you should always keep in mind that, no matter what you do to dry your wood, there will always be some level of movement by the wood during that drying process. For that reason, your roughout should be thick enough to allow you to turn away the resulting warp after drying...and get you to your finished thickness.

Unless, of course, you want the warp....whereby you turn to finished thickness and let it dry and warp. There have been some dazzling examples of warped pieces.

[Lee Koepke]

I just finished a maple bowl that had a DNA bath, very little warpage on the finish turn .... pulled an ambrosia sycamore shallow bowl out of the drying bag (it too went in DNA roughly the same time) and it ovaled on me drastically ....

the beauty of wood is its tendency to surprise you at every turn !!! (pun intended)

Best thing to do is try a little of this and a little of that to see what works best for you, you wont go wrong!

[Doug Palmer]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help.

I am just spurring an interest and appreciate learning from others much better than the school of hard knocks. Steve, I must say looking at some of your work has inspired me to try and learn. I am no spring chicken and will likely not have enough time to acquire the skills that you have exhibited, but you should know that you have motivated another potential turner to at least get some enjoyment out of the process. There are others members as well, but I really appreciated your tutorial.
FYI, I have made my own articulating jig (copy of the Monster) and steady rest, but have yet to get any hf tools. I am assured of getting those next month, as my birthday, father's day and anniversary all come within a week of each other. Kinda like Christmas in June. I have read many threads on HF tools and am planning to go with the Don Pencil as a starter set. Kinda a compromise between quality and cost. Hope to be trying my first HF in July. I might post pictures if I can find the comedy section of this forum. :)

[John Hart]

.....I might post pictures if I can find the comedy section of this forum. :)

Don't worry...you found it. It's all around you.....kinda like the Matrix ;)