Butternut tearout

[Matt Newton]

I was given some butternut that had been cut a number of years ago. It is extremely dry and full of worm holes. I promised the person I would make a bowl for them as the tree was from their property. I've never turned butternut and I'm getting tearout on the endgrain. I'm making light passes and sharpening frequently. Is there any way to fill the tearout? Any help would be appreciated.

[John Keeton]

Matt, it kind of goes with the territory with butternut. Try shear cutting with a very sharp gouge, and then start wet sanding with either MS, or BLO if you like a dark, rich color. Wet sanding will use a lot of sandpaper, but with the BLO, it will fill the grain, too. You can also use WOP to wet sand with, but I would thin it some. The WOP will probably "set" the sawdust in the grain a little better.

[David E Keller]

+1 for the wet sanding... I like to use BLO, but I'd bet most anything would work.

[James Combs]

You might also try thin CA, I have had pretty good luck with it. The roof and bottom of this birdhouse are Butternut and I used CA on them both. The roof was especially "fuzzy" before the CA.

194707

[Sid Matheny]

As John said "goes with the territory with butternut". Sharp tools is a must! I have wet sanded, dry sanded and then sand a slurry with sanding dust and medium CA to fill.

Sid

[Steve Schlumpf]

Not to go against the masses too much... but I would power sand the affected areas. As soft as the wood is, wouldn't take any time and less likely to cause further damage in case you had a catch or something. JMO.

[Dick Wilson]

Matt, One thing that I have done when I have that problem is to use 50/50 thinned down shellac. I soak the entire surface well and set it aside to dry thoroughly. The shellac stiffens the wood fibers. Then use a scary sharp gouge and take very thin passes until the surface is smooth. You can sand it from there. Good luck.

[Harry Robinette]

Matt
What I do with tear out is wipe it with the finish I'm going to use on the piece,While that finish is still WET take a very fine shear cut. You should get about 85 to 90% of the tear out then sand.I do this all the time I really hate sanding to get rid of deep marks.The finish if let wet and shear cut works like shaving cream it lets the wood fibers cut just like your whiskers.
As always JMHO

[Bob Bergstrom]

Matt, One thing that I have done when I have that problem is to use 50/50 thinned down shellac. I soak the entire surface well and set it aside to dry thoroughly. The shellac stiffens the wood fibers. Then use a scary sharp gouge and take very thin passes until the surface is smooth. You can sand it from there. Good luck.

+1 here. Stiffen the fibers and either cut them off or power sand the area with the lathe off and rotating the bowl by hand. I been using sanding dust of the same species as the bowl mixed into lacquer. Brush it into the pours, dry the mixture by spinning the bowl and rubbing it with curls or paper towel. Finally power sand the affected area.

[Bob Rotche]

Another option that I learned from Dale Larson at my John Campbell class is the use of cabinet scrapers. Wet down the wood with oil of your choice and use cabinet scraper. Works quickly and saves a lot of sandpaper. Just sharpen on grinding wheel (square edge) don't even need to use a burnisher (literaly just a quick swipe across the grinding wheel) Give it a try- you will be impressed!

[Phil St.Germain]

I have to agree with Steve, power sand. Butternut sands so quickly and easily, that I can get a smooth sanded finish in no time at all.

[Ray Bell]

Interesting thread. When you wet sand with oil do you do this through all grits?