New SN2

[Richard Jones]

The other thread got me thinking, so.............

So I got a set of 4" jaws to use on some heavier blanks, and thought I would treat myself to an additional SN2, so I can have 2" and 4" jaws mounted all the time. So..........chuck was so stiff it would hardly move.

So.....dismantled it and found the scroll ring had quite a few burrs on it, that really hindered the jaw slides.

So..........filed what I could, which certainly helped, but not good enough. I hate using a tight chuck.

So........ slathered the whole thing with some 320 lapping compound, reassembled it, used a straight allen wrench in my cordless drill and wore out two 18v lithium batteries lapping it in. Cleaned and repeated with 400 grit, cleaned and repeated with 800 grit. Cleaned and oiled and NOW it works so slick you have to look at it to make sure it's moving.

I never had this problem with my older SN2, nor 4 of my 5 G3's. The last G3 I bought had the same affliction, and the same therapy. I figured I got a bad one, no problem, everyone has a bad day. On the plus side, all the jaws worked fine from the git-go, it's just the scroll ring. The lead-in looks as if it was cut by hand, and poorly at that. The majority of the problems were in these areas, plus a couple of bad burrs on the inside of the shank.

Not blaming the supplier, since I assume they get them direct from Teknatool in sealed boxes. They should have been QC'd at the factory. Come on guys, for the $$ we're spending, those things should sing!!!!

And yes, I will be contacting Teknatool as well, maybe they can make a long distance call to the PRC and see what's what........

Is anyone else seeing similar issues?

Rich (becoming overly familiar with a chuck is not my idea of a good Saturday) in VA

OK, rant mode off.

[Jim Sebring]

A new SN2 I bought about a year ago had one rough spot in the scroll. It eventually wore itself away and the scroll is now smooth thoroughout the full range of adjustment. Pretty cool idea about lapping the parts in!

[Roger Chandler]

My first SN2 was stiff and it got better over time..........my original SuperNova was great from the get go, but since they have started making them in PRC you are getting a better price but not near as good machining.....par for the course, but it is not politically correct to point it out! :eek:

My last SN2 was pretty good right out of the box, and for the price one probably cannot get a better chuck than it......

Glad you figured out how to get it operating smoothly.

[Greg Just]

didn't they move production to China?

[Roger Chandler]

didn't they move production to China? "PRC" means peoples republic of china.........

[Nathan Hawkes]

That's really too bad. I definitely won't be buying any more TeknaTool products after hearing this. Cheaper does NOT equal better in my book.

[Gordon Vizecky]

I had the same issue but not nearly the same ambition (I didn't take mine apart to file or lap anything, I figured it would relax on its own).

I picked up a new SN2 when Woodcraft had them onsale last month. Much stiffer than my 5+ year old SN2 ever was. Saw the PRC sticker on the new one and was tempted to take it back but in the end kept it after determining there was no runout to speak of and the jaw alignment and scroll worked properly.

Not likely to buy another.

Gordon

[Chip Sutherland]

This thread is a bit of a bummer. I just bought a new one but have to wait for my birthday this week to open it. It had better run smooth and true. This is my 5th Teknatool chuck and hoping it is my last...but I said that at 3 then 4...dang vortex....okay maybe a little bit is related to me hating to change jaws between the 10-12 project I always seem to have going.

I hope someone from Teknatool gets wind of this. They can solve production problems in China. Other vendors did it successfully and without any bullets.

[Scott Hackler]

It is wierd hearing about SN2 problems. I just bought my second SN2 and it works perfect.

[John Keeton]

Teknatool production went to PRC quite some time ago, as I recall. I have owned (and still do) a variety of Nova chucks - some NZ made, but most PRC production. I have not noticed any significant difference, and the last two SN2 chucks I purchased (both PRC) seem to work fine. They were a little tight initially, but that didn't last long. I venture to say that in any manufacturing process, there will be a few imperfect products that make it out the door. I doubt Teknatool is any different. And, my guess is, the same problem exists in any manufacturing environment - domestic or otherwise.

[Richard Jones]

I did contact the vendor today, and they said they had forwarded my e-mail to Teknatool. I did reiterate that I did not consider this their (the vendor's) fault. That's about all I can do.

Aside from this issue, I really like the 8 (!) Nova chucks that I now have. This is my last chuck.............no, really, I mean it...............really.............

[Chip Sutherland]

I showed your comment about 8 chucks to the SWMBO and LMOL. She just rolled her eyes. From past experience that doesn't mean 'No'. It means I should have bought myself 2 chucks: one for my birthday, one for father's day. Luckily, our anniversary, her birthday and mother's day have all passed so I have until Christmas for her memory to fade.

[Jim Slovik]

I have been leading a turning club at my wife's school and was very happy that the budget allowed for the purchase of two Delta 46-460's and two SN2's. The order was already placed when I read this post. I was hoping that the problems with the SN2's were isolated incidents. Well, the two SN2's came in today and they are both unbearably stiff. I personally own two SN2's and I'm very happy with them. Had these new ones been my first, they would have been my last. I guess I'll start the lapping compound procedure so the kids will have something to use next Friday. By the way, where can I get lapping compound?

[Jim Sebring]

I've used fine valve grinding compound for lapping stuff like rifle bolts. You should be able to find it at a NAPA store. Be prepared to fully disassemble the chuck to wash the compound out . The only special tool needed is a snap ring plier. I would use mineral spirits for the flush since it's cheap and will also dissolve all the Chinese preservative the chuck was dipped in before shipment. I lube my chucks with a dry lube spray sold by Remington.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

*Sigh*

I just ordered my second SN2. Should be here in a few days. Hope I don't have to take it apart and "fix" it. My last one works pretty good. I was also hoping that the stiff chucks are not typical. I'll post a rant if the chuck is stiff and I have to take it apart.

[Richard Jones]

I use lapping compound from Brownell's, a gunsmithing supply house. 320, 400, 800, and most of the time I forego the 800. Any small imperfections left by the 400 get gone pretty fast with a bit of oil and some use. The process is pretty grungy, so prep a spot where you can clean up. I use carburetor cleaner for cleanup and degreasing, but it's sure not environmentally or personally friendly. Mineral spirits or kerosene may work as well, although I've never tried them. And make sure you install the jaw slides correctly. There is a proper order. It's entirely possible that you could file/sand/etc. the scroll ring adequately to smooth up the operation without resorting to the lapping method, entirely up to your discretion.

Valve lapping compound is quite a bit coarser than 320, but it's very possible that it would eliminate the big burrs/boo-boos on the scroll ring, and followed by some lube and oil, would yield a very satisfactory result. It is a chuck after all, not a surgical instrument.............

Rich

[Mikey Green]

I ordered an SN2 a little over a year ago, just after receiving my new lathe. I noticed that everything I turned had scratches on 1 or 2 sides of the turning, inside and outside. At first I thought there was a problem with the lathe, so I tried checking with the manufacturer, and they were reluctant to do anything. After they did agree to check the headstock, it turned out there was nothing wrong with it, which suggested I had a problem with my chuck. I bought a dial indicator and checked my chuck. I was as much as .034" off center or out-of-round with some jaws. I checked with the retailer, who suggested I just remove the plastic washer. I tried that, and it seemed to be a little better, so I told him I'd try that for awhile. After turning a few more objects, it went right back to where it was before.

I wound up ordering another one, just to see if I'd have any better luck. The second one doesn't have as much runout, but it does have some. It's visible with the naked eye when I turn the lathe on. I don't know what's acceptable and what's not, so I don't know whether I'm being too fussy or whether this is the norm.