My harbor freight bandsaw try it again?

[Tom Hassad]

I gave up on this saw and it is collecting dust. I was reading how others modified this saw with a riser block, better tension coil, better guides, etc.

I estimate this would cost under $200 to make changes. I know with my saw I cranked the tension as far as possible and I still got blade drift and a horrible screeching noise whenever I used it and forget about trying to do any resawing.

Should I try the mod or would I throw good money after bad. I have asked some people who have done the mods and said they got mediocre results so I guess I am looking for an opinion that is based on trying to mod this or seen others mod this bandsaw.... Tom

[Paul Symchych]

I will share my experience with an antique car that could bear on your situation.
I the '70s I had a 1925 Dodge Brothers sedan that was in excellent condition. On a whim I took it in to a restorer thinking it would be an easy restoration into a show car. He told me it would take almost as much trouble to restore as it would a Rolls Royce and "in the end you'd still only have a Dodge".

[glenn bradley]

Paul hit the nail on the head to my way of thinking. I have had "throwing good money after bad" experiences myself. These experiences usually teach a lesson that is well learned but, better learned through someone else's experience ;-)

[Myk Rian]

You bought cheap. Tossing money at it won't change that.
My BIL gave me one when he moved to an apartment. I wound up giving it away free on CL.

[Curt Harms]

IMO it depends on whether you have some mechanical inclination and spare time. You might back all the guides away from the blade, turn the saw on and see it it still screeches. Check the wheels to see if they're coplanar. I took a piece of 1/4" plywood about a foot wide with one good straight edge. Cut away enough so that it'll fit over the table & frame and the straight edge will touch and top and bottom of each wheel. Adjust until they all do; you might have to shim one wheel or adjust the tilt on the bottom wheel. One of the downsides of harbor freight machines is the documentation can be rather........sketchy :p hence the need for mechanical inclination. So far your only cost is time and perhaps a scrap of plywood.

If you can get it to run smooth and quiet, then consider investing in a good blade or two. The blade that came with it is probably crap. Personally I'd look at somebody like Timberwolf (www.suffolkmachinery.com (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com)), Louis Iturra or www.woodcraftbands.com (http://www.woodcraftbands.com).

[Mike Harrison]

I've had my HF saw for nearly 20 years and its been a very good tool. I bought a riser kit, installed a 3HP motor, put some ball bearing guides on it, and built a simple resaw fence from some laminated MDF. I use it quite a lot re-sawing flat panels.

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/WW%20tools/Shop%20tools%20and%20Jigs/Circle%20Cutting%20Jig/circle22.jpg
http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/WW%20tools/Band%20Saw/Bandsaw3-1.jpghttp://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/Wesleys%20Dresser/Dresser9.jpg

[david brum]

My first bandsaw was a HF 14". It wasn't a terrible saw, not worse than many other generic import 14" saws. It had limitations which are common to all of those saws. Blade guides are useless, tension spring is useless, drive belt is lumpy, tension knob is difficult to use, dust collection is useless, motor is too small, etc. There are also myriad other details that are omitted on the HF saws, such as not having hinges on the doors and awkward location of the switch.

I added a riser block, new Iturra spring, better guides, Fenner link belt and used 1.5hp motor to mine. It worked great. It passed the nickel test, no problem. It took a lot of effort to get it there, though.

After I did all the work, I happened to see a Shop Fox (Grizzly) 14" saw at a retailer. I slapped myself on the forehead because it already had most of the improvements plus lots of other details I'd wished for. Aside from the dozens of hours involved, I could have bought the nicer saw for less money than the HF saw plus improvements. That was a lesson learned, for sure.

I eventually got a 17" saw which has far more capabilty and worked out of the box. There is no comparison. Such saws are getting really affordable these days. My advice would be to put your $200 toward one of those rather than sinking it into a 14" saw. You can always keep the HF saw for cutting curves,etc. I agree that the screeching noise is probably because you're trying to cut wood with the cheap metal cutting blade that comes stock on these.

[Bill Huber]

I know with my saw I cranked the tension as far as possible and I still got blade drift and a horrible screeching noise whenever I used it and forget about trying to do any resawing.
You can tension the blade until the cows come home and it will do nothing for the draft. If you have a bad blade or it is not centered on the wheels then it will draft.
If you want to stay with the same size band saw then get a good blade and if you can not get it working right you will still have a good blade for when you get a new saw. As Curt said check the wheels out and make sure they are fine. The screeching come from the back bearing in most cases so make sure you have a good bearing there and the blade is adjusted so that it is not touching it when you are not cutting.

[Joseph Tarantino]

i'd try contacting iturra design. they don't have a website but can be reached here:

http://www.manta.com/c/mmc3znn/iturra-design

lou iturra can review what you have and suggest what you would need to improve the functioning of your saw. but lou will also not just sell you stuff that "might" help. if he thinks you're just gong to be throwing good money after bad, he'll tell you so beforehand. he is great guy to know for ANYTHING band saw related.

[Alan Schwabacher]

The main problem with HF stuff is not that it's all terrible, but that it's quite variable so you can't be sure whether it will be decent. If yours is halfway decent, it should not take anywhere near $200 to make it work well. It will take a good blade, careful alignment (of guides, pulleys, and wheels,) and functional guide blocks (which can be hardwood). You'd need to check the support to make sure it's solid, and perhaps add weatherstripping or something to eliminate rattles that can contribute to screeching. But it should not require a stronger spring or motor to work well (which is not saying these won't do something once it does.)

If you like tinkering with machinery, you can likely get this saw to work fine without investing a lot of money. If you don't enjoy tinkering, your time can probably be more profitably spent elsewhere. If you want a saw you can use without tinkering, buy something else.

[Neil Brooks]

The phrase "lipstick on a pig" comes to mind ;)

If you WERE one of the lucky ones -- whose HF band saw really IS a decent, if limited, machine -- then ... yeah ... okay ... why not put a few bucks into upgrades.

But ... GM once took a Chevy Cavalier, put leather seats in it, and called it a Cadillac Catera.

And it really wasn't a better car, after all :)

Used 14" Delta. Watch CraigsList in your area.....

[Phil Thien]

I think the main question is: Why did you give up on the saw to begin with?

Bandsaws are deceptively simple, but can be amazingly aggravating to the new user.

Buying a different one won't necessarily solve any problems if the underlying problem was inexperience in setting up and using the tool to being with. And even if someone delivers the perfect saw to your doorstep, things do go wrong. Knowing how to troubleshoot problems will prevent you from having to buy a new saw each time you encounter a new issue.

I'd try to identify the problem(s) you're having, and address those. Then determine where upgrades are necessary.

[Tom Hassad]

Thanks for the suggestions. Since they discontinued the riser Kit I would have to get the grizzly and I added it up to around $150 for new blade, riser, new coil spring, cool blocks, a longer tensioner,etc. I have the stock motor which is rated at 1 hp, I believe. I did buy timber wolf blades at one time and I knew enough to throw out the stock blade when I started. The blades did not seem to help. The screeching noise was probably the back bearing because it was horrible as I pushed the wood through the blade. Since my goal is to resawing maybe I should not waste my money with a bandsaw with a weak motor? I thought my bandsaw would be equivalent to the setup of Michael fortune's but maybe that extra hp makes all the difference as well as the better parts I need.

To answer the question from Phil, I never had a good experience cutting wood. I would get major drift or would feel like I was pushing too hard and making too little progress with the feed rate so I got to the point I felt scared to use it because I knew it should not be this hard to get a decent cut. I would think getting a bigger motor might be expensive so seems like maybe I should wait and buy a bigger machine.

[Mike Harrison]

I think Alan and Phil have given you some sound advise, and I guess Neil never had a good BBQ Ham Sandwich. ;)

All those items in your $150 upgrade package, you'd have to buy for any 14" saw, as none come with a risers or cool blocks. I agree with Alan about the spring, I think its a non issue.

I too think buying more expensive tools doesn't equal success. Go to the library and leaf through two or three band saw books, look past all the disguised sales pitches, and note what they all have in common. Those are the salient issues with a band saw. Phil is correct when he says band saws are deceptively simple.

[Tom Hassad]

Thanks again for all who replied. I just wanted to give an update. I took the bandsaw apart and figured that the belts needed tightening and things adjusted and then I proceeded to try cutting a thick block of wood and I got a lot of blade drift, partly due to the mediocre guides and the fact that I tensioned the blade to the max I could turn and new it still was not enough. I figured I wanted to see if I could get to close enough because that would give me confidence to make all the replacements. However, I can see I would have to do a lot of tinkering and I think I will skip all that and buy a new saw. After researching all the parts I would need to add, and after spending the day in the garage breaking down and putting the bandsaw together, I decided I did not want to do that again and I want to buy something that will only need minor adjustments. Now, gathering the funds will be a whole different topic. Thanks again, Jake.

[Myk Rian]

and the fact that I tensioned the blade to the max I could turn and new it still was not enough.
There's the problem. That is not the way to tension a blade.
Buy a book on band saws, then read it.

[Howard Acheson]

I am willing to bet that your problems are with set up and alignment, not with the saw itself. There is absolutely no need for things like riser blocks, tension springs and guides until you get the saw running correctly out of the box. Those items will not solve any of the problems you seem to be having.

First, if you are attempting to use the blade supplied with the saw, throw it out. Buy a couple of new blades--one 1/4" and one 1/2" for resawing. Now go through a detailed and careful alignment of the saw. I strongly suggest you purchase The Band Saw Book by Lonnie Bird. Amazon will have it. It will tell you how to set up and align your saw as well what blades to use for different types of cuts.

[Mark Churay]

I agree with Alan. Drift is almost always caused by the blade. Any band saw is a tinkers delight. Nothing like a set it and forget it of a table saw. You can make "cool blocks from some 1/2"x1/2" maple soaked in minerial oil for several days. Actually any scrap hardwood would do. I got a new thurst bearing for $3.95 at a local bearing store, check your yellow pages. A good 1/4" 6 tpi Timberline blade is about $25. The 1/2" 3 tpi Highland Woodworking Wood Slicer is $30. Maybe new tires at about $32 from Woodcraft although you probably don't need them. You should be able to get Mark Duginske's two books from libraery or interlibraery loan. Can be had at Amazon for $13 & $14. All in all even if you bought everthing it should cost you just under $75. I think that a spring is a non issue, but even that is only $17 from Highland. The chitty chitty bang bang can be cured with a little tape,rubber & paper. Balanceing your wheels, adding a piece of 3/4" MDF between the stand and the saw will also help. HF also sells a Made in the U.S.A. link "V" belt that will also help if it uses a "V" belt. If not check in the yellow pages again and you'll probably find a belt store (probably near where you going to get a bearing) and get a "Made in the U.S.A. belt. (be sure to take your old one). If you have a router you can make a new zero clearance table insert easly. Other wise use a coping saw and a file. Keep in mind that all of the adjustments will have to be made with ANY new bandsaw. The standard 14" saw will resaw 6". I have found that I rarely need the extra height of a riser. A new 14" Delta, Jet or Powermatic setup for resawing is going to be around $900 to $1100 these and anything else will have many of the issues you are having now(i.e. new blades, adjustments, and maybe belts and "cool blocks". Going to a 16" to 18" saw really raises the price and cost of blades and such, not to mention the space requirments.
Just my 2 cents,
Mark

[Myk Rian]

I agree with Alan. Drift is almost always caused by the blade. Any band saw is a tinkers delight. Nothing like a set it and forget it of a table saw. You can make "cool blocks from some 1/2"x1/2" maple soaked in minerial oil for several days. Actually any scrap hardwood would do. I got a new thurst bearing for $3.95 at a local bearing store, check your yellow pages. A good 1/4" 6 tpi Timberline blade is about $25. The 1/2" 3 tpi Highland Woodworking Wood Slicer is $30. Maybe new tires at about $32 from Woodcraft although you probably don't need them. You should be able to get Mark Duginske's two books from libraery or interlibraery loan. Can be had at Amazon for $13 & $14. All in all even if you bought everthing it should cost you just under $75. I think that a spring is a non issue, but even that is only $17 from Highland. The chitty chitty bang bang can be cured with a little tape,rubber & paper. Balanceing your wheels, adding a piece of 3/4" MDF between the stand and the saw will also help. HF also sells a Made in the U.S.A. link "V" belt that will also help if it uses a "V" belt. If not check in the yellow pages again and you'll probably find a belt store (probably near where you going to get a bearing) and get a "Made in the U.S.A. belt. (be sure to take your old one). If you have a router you can make a new zero clearance table insert easly. Other wise use a coping saw and a file. Keep in mind that all of the adjustments will have to be made with ANY new bandsaw. The standard 14" saw will resaw 6". I have found that I rarely need the extra height of a riser. A new 14" Delta, Jet or Powermatic setup for resawing is going to be around $900 to $1100 these and anything else will have many of the issues you are having now(i.e. new blades, adjustments, and maybe belts and "cool blocks". Going to a 16" to 18" saw really raises the price and cost of blades and such, not to mention the space requirments.
Just my 2 cents,
Mark
A few carriage returns would surely make this post easier to read. I got tired half way through.

[Tom Hassad]

I am sorry but I don't understand the comments on what I am doing wrong. I have the Lonnie bird book and I followed the advice to have my guide blocks and thrust bearings almost touch the blade but not touch, I tightened up the v belts and got them better aligned and I cut a 5 inch block of cherry wood (bunch of wood laminated together) with my timber wolf blade. My blade is 3/8 inch and 3 tip but I wonder if it is really 1/2 inch because it measures 3/8 out to the teeth but if you measure the end of tooth to back of blade then it is 1/2. I made sure the wheels were aligned when I tightened the blade. I did not max out the tension on the first cut but I did on the second and maybe got a little better result but plenty of drift on both cuts. I don't understand the comment about not needing guides to get the saw running out of the box. I thought without guides my drift would be worse. My blade still flexes about half a inch when pushing on it tensioned. I mention the riser block only because I want to one day resaw bigger than 6 inch lumber.

I think I set this up best as I could with the original components except the blade. Now it is slightly possible my blade is not as sharp as it was. Because I have used it in the past under bad setup conditions. I will try to take a picture and you will see the drift but the cut is at least Pretty straight down. What should I specifically try to do now?

[Tom Hassad]

195484


I am sorry it is upside down.

[Tom Hassad]

Hopefully you can see the drift.

As I checked my book again I can think of three things that are happening. I am surprised to read that perhaps I have the blade tensioned enough because there is no bow to the cut - it is pretty straight up and down. so, first, my blade may be dull. second, I need to try this experiment again with a slower feed rate - I did push it through the cut. Third, my guide blocks are really horrible - I think they are plastic. They may have not stayed in position through the cut and they need to be squared up, better yet, replaced.

Perhaps my tension is not so bad so no maybe it is these three issues. Next time I will stop taking pictures while doing handstands.

[Phil Thien]

Get a new, non-Timberwolf blade. I suggest a Blade Runner (same as WoodSlicer) from Iturra.

[Brad Patch]

i'd try contacting iturra design. they don't have a website but can be reached here:

http://www.manta.com/c/mmc3znn/iturra-design

lou iturra can review what you have and suggest what you would need to improve the functioning of your saw. but lou will also not just sell you stuff that "might" help. if he thinks you're just gong to be throwing good money after bad, he'll tell you so beforehand. he is great guy to know for ANYTHING band saw related.

+1, Call Lou Iturra,

[Mike Harrison]

IF you havent, you might read this recent post regarding drift. When cutting against a fence, you must have the fence parallel to the blade. What your picture shows me is that your fence is NOT parallel to your blade, or, if it is, you have a dull blade and are having to push the work way to hard.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?165973-Band-Saw-drift-on-crowned-tires...-The-way-I-control-it.&highlight=crown+drift

[David Hostetler]

Sorry this reply might seem a bit snotty, it's not meant to be that way...

From what I am reading here, you are bashing a band saw for faults that seem to me to be operator errors...

Learn to tune and tension and band saw before throwing cash at a problem money won't solve.

Go to Wood Magazine's web site, they have some excellent videos there on how to properly tune and set up a band saw.

I have the HF 1HP 4 speed 14" saw (#32208) and yes I hot rodded it, but that was to get features I wanted, not because of any operational fault of the saw. My upgrades were...

#1. Riser block to increase resaw capacity.
#2. Cobra Coil tension coil to take up for the riser block. (when you add a riser, you typically should add a tighter spring).
#3. Craftsman Universal band saw fence. It's okay at best.
#4. Grizzly G0555 tension release assembly. NOT an easy mod for somebody inexperienced with working on machines... But well worth it to me as it makes tensioning and de tensioning the blade a snap.
#5. Timberwolf blade assortment. Again not a fault of the HF saw, if you use a band saw, typically you will have an assortment of blades for doing different tasks... Like cutting curves, or resawing. They behave differently...
#6. Carter lower wheel brush to keep dust and wood chips from embedding in the tire.
#7. 4" dust port upgrade
#8. Cool blocks.

If you are getting a screaming noise, how are your guides aligned? Is the blade lubed per the MFG instructions (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing/)? (These blades SCREAM when they get dry...)

I know my reply is going to come off jerk like. Sorry for that, it just seems like you need to learn the band saw before you drive yourself crazy, and blame a workable tool for something that most likely is not the fault of the tool...

[david brum]

What should I specifically try to do now?

Buy a new 1/2" x 3t x 93.5" blade. You'll drive yourself nuts trying to get the saw to work properly if your blade is no good.


I don't understand the comment about not needing guides to get the saw running out of the box.

You're right about needing guides. The stock HF guides are useless because they're soft plastic which wears immediately in use, so they won't hold the blade straight. I tried Cool Blocks and also shop made hardwood blocks for my saw. I wasn't happy with either one. I eventually got some inexpensive roller guides which worked great. HF used to carry them, but I've also seen them on the bay, auction # 310319484261. They are a bit under $25.

[Mike Harrison]

I eventually got some inexpensive roller guides which worked great. HF used to carry them, but I've also seen them on the bay, auction # 310319484261. They are a bit under $25.

Those are the guides I've been using for several years. I got 4 sets of them at HF, and I'm still on the first set, so at this rate, there should still be a few in the drawer at my estate auction.

[Tom Hassad]

Thanks for the feedback - I will spend more time with my book and the web videos and read up some more and I will report back, perhaps after getting another blade. It may be a month or so but I will one day come back to this thread and provide an update - Tom.