Need Help Cutting Burl

[Jeff Belany]

I read this forum almost every day put don't post very often. I need some help from the pros out there who use burls. The only burls I have turned are pen blanks I have acquired, I have never cut a burl myself. When I was in a woodworking store last week they had some chunks of burl for sale and I couldn't resist this Maple burl. I hope one of you guys can give me advise on how to cut a burl into pen blanks. Just point me in the right direction, especially making the first cuts. Hope the pictures show what you need to see.

Thanks,

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

[Jamie Donaldson]

Jeff- you didn't mention the size of this burl, but if it were mine I would cut it into thirds to make 3 vase/bowl shapes, axis C/D on your image, with the natural edge spikes as the tops. The flat bottom would be quite safe to rest flat on a bandsaw table for cutting, and some pen blanks and other projects could be turned from the "waste" that resulted from the material between the vase forms.

[Jeff Belany]

Sorry, forgot about the size. It's approx. 9"x11" and 4.5" thick.

I really want to make pen blanks out of it. My skills at larger pieces is pretty limited. I'm sure it would be a waste of a burl (that must be a sin) for me to try anything else with it. I do think I can make pens, at least I've been practicing for 15 years. Not up with some of the guys around here but I keep trying.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

[John Hart]

Jeff...Are you sure you don't want to make some really nice hollow pieces???:eek:

I know..I know....Just answer the question John:rolleyes:

Well...this burl looks just like the maple burl I used for this bulb on a recent pedestal piece
194315
You see those vertical curls? Looks like you have the same thing.

If it were me, and I was slicing that thing up for pen blanks, I'd try to orient those curls so that they were not so radial....but axial along the long form of the pen.

But that's me...

....and I have bad taste....

...in fact.....just forget that I posted.


Shuttin' up now.:o

[David DeCristoforo]

John and Jamie have given you sage counsel. Almost sinful to resaw a fine looking burl cap into pen blanks. If you cut a couple or three blanks as Jamie suggested, there will be plenty of "fall down" to make some pen blanks out of. If you can't do that, send me the cap and I'll trade you some rosewood burl pen blanks for it. I have some pieces that are just right for cutting into pen blanks. In fact, while we are on that subject, a while back I told a couple of guys I would have some rosewood burl blanks once I broke down a few of my rosewood burls. So if you guys want to PM me with your addresses, I'll try and send you a couple.

[David E Keller]

One problem with slicing it for pen blanks is that the really primo pen stuff is just under the natural edge, and some of the stuff from the large, cut surface is going to be less stellar. With a pen, you're working with a really small canvas, so you really want the primo burl for such a small display area. If I were you, I'd cut a 7/8" strip off the cut surface that's up in the second photo then break it down into smaller blanks. If the wood is dry, you can cut it a little narrower. If it's pretty wet, you may want to go with 1" since it may warp when drying. Also, it needs to be pretty dry before you use it for pens. I've got a ton of pen blanks in a variety of burls, and I'll extend the trade offer as well if you decide not to cut it up.

[Scott Hackler]

I couldn't ever cut that up into pen blanks or for that matter smaller blanks. I had a chunk of it that was very close to this size and this is what I came up with. It should be known that there was a couple pen blanks worth of burl left in the cut offs and enough to do the foot as well. GO FOR IT!!!

194365

[Cory Norgart]

Jeff, I would take your longest, straightest edge, flat side down, and start slicing 7/8 slabs. After such, face slabs flat side down with the natural edge on the fence side and start slicing 7/8 squares, then cut to length. It seems odd, but when cutting pen blanks you will get more wood out of the peice starting from the bark side than your long flat side once they are slab form. Beleive me, I found this out. I have probably wasted more burl figuring this out than most men will ever own in there lives:) Dont forget, the waste, especially peices with natural edge(bark), are great for casting pens and peepermills, etc. This is my process for burl to penblank ratio. Let me know if I can help more. The reasoning for this is quoted by Keller in the above, all of your intense burl is just under the bark. The closer you get to the trunk side of the burl, the less configuration and what not.

[Jeff Belany]

Thanks for the advise. I guess I'll never learn anything about burls if I never cut into one. Gotta start somewhere. I just hope I get something worth it out of the deal. Showing my ignorance -- I'm not even sure how dry it is. I think I can hunt up a moisture meter to check it. Otherwise I'll just let it sit on the shelf for a few months after I cut it.

Thanks again for the help.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin