Marking Knives Which One?

[richard poitras]

I was looking at getting a marking knife and was wondering what knife people are using and which one in the most popular among everyone?

Thanks Richard

[Dave Lewis]

I use a chip knife that has a 2" blade bought from a Woodcraft store. It works well for me and also serves to trim out corners on dovetails.

[Brian W Evans]

I don't have a specific recommendation except that I like one with the blade beveled (not sure if this is the right terminology) on both sides (i.e. shaped like a wedge instead of flat on one side and sloped on the other). This allows you to place the knife right up against a piece of wood on either the right or left. As Dave said, some chip carving knives are this way.

[Andrew Gibson]

I have been using the kit knife from czeck edge that is on sale here at craftsman studio. http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/CE!0001.htm

I had the opportunity to meet Bob and he is a great guy to talk with about tools.

If you have a desire to turn your own handle I would recommend it. I would also recommend any of his other tools. I would like to get the really thin knife as well for dovetail work but all in good time.

[ian maybury]

I'm only starting to use one, and am no expert but have so far found that some of the V pointed types (Japanese and local) can be too short and thick for fine work. e.g. reaching between narrow dovetails. On the other hand a too skinny one may track too easily with the grain, so it's probably a case of needing more than one.

I've discovered that there's quite a bit of skill involved in using one accurately and without making errors too. e.g. awareness of grain direction.

Japanese marking knife info: http://www.codesmiths.com/shed/things/knives/markingknives.htm

I'm attracted to the thought of one with the bevel ground from one side only (but many recommend X-acto type knives which are double beveled), but this requires either LH and RH knives, or a V point.

Here's some DIY versions from HSS jigsaw blades by Derek Cohen which combine a decent reach with slimness and a single bevel V point.

Here's a customised approach to Japanese knives for fine marking: http://www.hand-cut-dovetails.com/tools/4Japanesemarkingknife/4japanesemarkingknife.html

Another approach (inspired by a pocket knife I had for many years) is possibly something like a wood carving knife with a straight cutting edge, with the back curved gradually down to it to make the point. If sharpened by grinding a single face for the full width of the blade on each side it should mark nicely close in to a vertical surface, be fairly stiff and at the same time b able to reach into narrow gaps...

[Bill Haumann]

Hock Tools spearpoint knife.
Sharpens easily to sharper than my other marking knives.

- Bill

[Terry Beadle]

Blue Spruce Marking Knife.... excellent !

[gary Zimmel]

One more thumbs up for the Blue Spruce marking knifes..

[Kent A Bathurst]

Hock Tools spearpoint knife.
Sharpens easily to sharper than my other marking knives.

- Bill

+1
+2
+3

[ I have 3 of them....:D..]

[glenn bradley]

I prefer the flat on one side type. I used an X-Acto knife for years but now have the Lee Valley spear point (IIRC, it was a gift). The flat allows a very controlled run down a milled reference surface. If you do mostly hand work I would probably go with a dual bevel.

[Richard Jones]

I have a Hock, a Blue Spruce, and one that I made (Blue Spruce style). All three get used about equally.

Rich

[Timothy Juvenal]

Reading this thread made me realize I needed one of these.

16d masonry nail, 1/2" copper cap, piece of walnut scrap, less than an hour labor.

http://www.tjwoodworking.com/mrk1.jpg (http://www.tjwoodworking.com/mrk1.jpg)

Not as fancy as the store boughten ones but oughta work just fine.

Timothy

[richard poitras]

I have just finished a 2 day seminar with instructor Stephen Proctor on hand tools and cutting dovetails by hand. And he recommended the dual bevel ones with flat backs but not any particular brand. He has an old one he had for many a year.
Thanks for all the tips and leads. I will check out the brands you all have recommended out on the web and see what one looks like it will fit my needs.

Thanks Richard

[Joe Angrisani]

X-Acto #11

[Bruce Page]

There’s not a lot of magic to a marking knife but I do like my Blue Spruce over the X-Acto knives that I used for years.

[Dave Gaul]

Shop Notes (IIRC) just had an article showing how to make one with a pen blank & some tool steel...

I would go for a double bevel one. I have a crown single bevel and I hate only having one direction to make from!

[Dave Aronson]

I like using a Wheel Marking Gauge. when marking parallel to the ends.

[Mike Henderson]

I mostly use a set of 1/4" Japanese marking knives (left and right) but a good pocket knife with a long, reasonably thin blade will work about as well.

Mike

[Jesse Tutterrow]

I have been using the Woodcraft chip knife with no problems.

I just received my ShopNotes magazine (Vol 20 Issue 117) and there is an article in making your own marking knives.

[ian maybury]

Just to mention that an HSS jigsaw blade is used as a blank by some when making DIY marking knives - as in the Derek Cohen piece mentioned above...

ian

[ian maybury]

Link to Derek Cohen's piece: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Knife%20for%20Marking%20Dovetails.html

ian