Using spalted maple for door insert

[Jeff Monson]

I've designed a kitchen buffet for my next project, the construction will be made of cherry. I'd like to use spalted maple for the door panels and end panels. I have never worked with the stuff before, so I'd like some opinions.

The doors will be 15"x29", leaving me needing a panel that will be in the 10"x24" range and the end panels will be very similar. I'd like to make raised panels, but I'm not sure spalted maple is stable enough for a raised panel??? The other option I have is to make an insert flat panel with the maple veneered to 1/4" plywood (but I dont see alot of spalted maple veneer for sale). BTW the doors and end panels will be rail and stile construction.

[Ben Abate]

Jeff,

I have used spalted maple a lot and I find it fine to work with. I just finished a hall table with an 8" x 35 inch inlay 3/4" thick. It's an insert glued to a bloodwood frame. I believe you'll not have any problems using it as a inserted panel in a raised panel situation. as for the veneer you could slice it up your self. Personally I'd do the raised panel/panels and not worry. I've book matched raised panels of spalted maple before without any problem. You do have to be a bit particular about selecting your stock. I personally like the looks of cherry and spalted maple combination.

Ben

[Mark A Johnson]

That size material might be hard to find. You might end up making your own veneer. B&B Rare Wood might be worth a look. Another vendor to try Goby Walnut, they don't have much in the way of veneer, however they have some nice spalted material. Gobys website doesn't do much in the way of showing the selection of material they have on site, so a phone call might be necessary.

[Jeff Monson]

Jeff,

I have used spalted maple a lot and I find it fine to work with. I just finished a hall table with an 8" x 35 inch inlay 3/4" thick. It's an insert glued to a bloodwood frame. I believe you'll not have any problems using it as a inserted panel in a raised panel situation. as for the veneer you could slice it up your self. Personally I'd do the raised panel/panels and not worry. I've book matched raised panels of spalted maple before without any problem. You do have to be a bit particular about selecting your stock. I personally like the looks of cherry and spalted maple combination.

Ben

Thanks Ben! That is exactly the information I was looking for, I'd really prefer to use it in a raised panel application also. I just was not too sure if it was a stable material.

[Jeff Monson]

That size material might be hard to find. You might end up making your own veneer. B&B Rare Wood might be worth a look. Another vendor to try Goby Walnut, they don't have much in the way of veneer, however they have some nice spalted material. Gobys website doesn't do much in the way of showing the selection of material they have on site, so a phone call might be necessary.

Mark, I actually found some nice choices and correct specs on .......... EBAY!!!!! I have had good luck (knock on wood) with my last few purchases there. I bought some nice walnut leg stock and some curly maple for a table top, both went smooth.
I might have to call Goby just to compare though.

[Harvey Pascoe]

Remember that spalted wood is actually rotted wood and will often have punky spots and is highly subject to shredding and extreme tear out. That is why there are no commercial veneers. I resaw my own veneers and generally make them extra thick, at lest 1/8" then vacuum press them. When sawing the corners will almost always break away, so be sure to use a backing piece. Attempting to route the spalted for a raised panel is not likely to work well as the tear out will be extreme unless you just happen to get a piece that has no punky spots, and I surely would not bet on that.

[J.R. Rutter]

2nd on the strong possibility of hitting some soft, punky wood just where you don't want it. Personally, I would do a solid reverse raised panel.

In the past I have used the very thin super glue to stabilize suspect areas around the perimeter of the back before shaping. This was for a set of doors using spalted mango for the panels.

[Cody Colston]

Spalted wood is used often in door panels (see Krenov, James) and can be striking. Maple is one of the easier woods to spalt and while not as strong as unspalted wood, it is certainly strong enough for door/end panels. Spalted does not automatically mean punky, either. It just depends on when the spalting was arrested.

I see no problem with raising panels from sound, spalted wood.

[J.R. Rutter]

I see no problem with raising panels from sound, spalted wood.

Me neither. I usually seem to find some funky punky spots though.