Could use some input/advice

[Tim Thiebaut]

This is my first HF without a collar, one where I hollowed the entire thing through as small a hole as possible, the hole started out as "1 but after a very nasty catch I had to clean it up final width is about "1 3/16. There is a slight upturn to the opening. This beautiful piece of Claro walnut is one John Keeton sent me a while ago, I just wanted to wait until I got a little more experience to turn it and I felt comfortable trying it now. It is approx "5 1/2 wide X "3 1/2 tall, the walls are about "1/4 I didnt feel comfortable going thinner then that especialy after the bad catchs I had.

Here is where I would like a little advice. I want to try a short pedistal underneath it, but the biggest piece of ebony I have is roughly "2, once I turn it round is this going to be to small for a base, will it not look right that small?

And secondly, if I decide to do a finial should it fit nice and neat over the opening, or should it actauly be a little wider and completely cover it since it is such a small opening?

Also, do you think the dark wood like ebony will be to dark, or should I try and find a very light colored wood like holly or something to really contrast?

I have seen how helpful it is when others get input during the construction phase of their build so I thought I would take advantage of this myself, I took a lot of time and care hollowing this and want it to come out the best I can possibly make it, thanks for any and all help and input, Tim

PS - If there is any issue with the form of the HF itself please let me know!

EDIT - Forgot to attach the pics after writing all that!

[Keith E Byrd]

Tim I can't answer your questions since I have never done a HF or a finial but I do like the form and the wood is awesome! Nice Job!

[Roger Chandler]

Tim,

I think that a pedestal would need to be about 3.5 to 4.5 inches tall to balance the form.......most likely a dark or ebonized finial would be easiest, and you could use maple or some hardwood that takes fine detail well. A light colored like with holly would be pretty, but from what Keeton and others have told me, the lighter ones need to be thinner as well.

As to the lid.........your opening is pretty much set, so a lid that fits the opening would be a very difficult fit, so a tenon that fits the hole and a lip over the edges that tries to match the curve of the top is what is generally called for.

That is a beautiful piece of claro, and I think you have a great one going.........I think JK will be proud of you!

[Deane Allinson]

Beautiful! It looks done to me. I love the opening. Not too small for the size. Really nice wood, flame figure on top who could ask for more. Try the foot and finial on the next one. Just my opinion. Great work.
Deane

[John Keeton]

Tim, it looks very nice as is - you did a great job with this one! Lots of decisions for you in considering a pedestal and finial. For me, that decision is made on paper prior to the turning of the form as it permits me to develop the form to achieve an homogenous look.

Given the lack of a distinct shoulder on this form, if I were considering a pedestal, I would probably want a fairly heavy transition area where the pedestal meets the form. That means a heavier/wider base. If you want to use the ebony, then you could make the bottom of the base of Claro walnut to match the form. If you don't have another piece, I have some scrap I could send you.

For the base of a finial, I don't think I would go beyond the small lip you have on the opening, and you will need to give thought to how you want the base to be. It would be difficult to continue the curve of the form as the neck does turn up rather abruptly. Steve Schlumpf has done a beautiful job on some of his finials on similar openings, so you might want to view some of his pieces.

You can always turn the pedestal and finial and see what you think. Overall, I would lean heavily toward leaving it as is - it shows very well on its own.

[David DeCristoforo]

I think JK and Deane are correct in that this could easily stand on it's own. These oval profile shapes are not easy to embellish but it can be done if you are determined to go that way. Neal Addy has pice of several similar forms on his site. You might look there for some inspiration:

http://www.nealaddy.org/node/2

[Jim Burr]

I like it Tim...hard to go wrong with the shape or the wood! Since ebony and blackwood are so expensive...I've gone to ebonizing using bark powder with a vinegar and steel wool solution. Several finials from maple and walnut have come out with great coloration. Add a finial, like a teardrop shape just for the practice and to see what it looks like!

[bob svoboda]

I'm not the most creative of people, but I am having an especially hard time imagining this form as anything but a stand-alone. Love the form and the wood.

[Tim Thiebaut]

Thanks for all of the advice and input here everyone. I think I will go with leaving it as is and do final sanding and finish to the piece. I have not tried planing an entire piece out on paper before hand so maybe I will give that a go for the next one.

John - I still have another full size piece like this one, and several smaller blocks to work with so I still have some to work with here, I hadnt used any of the big pieces until now as I didnt think I was ready back then, thanks again!

Jim B. - I had a very bad experience with ebonizing maple with vinegar and steel wool, the mix made me sick as a dog so I am staying away from ever trying that again. I dont know why or what happened but once was enough for me.

[David E Keller]

This is a really pretty piece, Tim! I didn't know that John would share Claro with anybody, so consider yourself fortunate!:D

I agree with DD that this shape is difficult to adorn(for me anyway). I like this form, but I'm more accustomed to seeing a more heart shaped form when a pedestal is added(ie. max width about 1/3 from the top with a much smaller base). For lids and finials, I tend to plan a bit ahead on how I want the lid to fit(ie. flush, overhanging, recessed, etc). Also, I tend to make a more gradual upturn at the lip to allow for continuing the curve up into the lid and finial... I like what you've done with this piece, so I'm not suggesting any changes to this piece. Just some mindless babble to consider or discard for future forms.

I'd slap some finish on that baby and call it beautiful!

[Scott Hackler]

Looks good, as is, in my opinion. When concidering a finial or pedestal ...it should have been thought out before the vessel is shaped. That way the pedestal or finial is part of the design, not something aded on....just to add something on. I would leave it and enjoy the fact that you turned a fine looking vessel. On the next one, if a pedestal is something your interested in..... I would say a taper towards the pedestal would help the flow of the piece.

[Dennis Ford]

I agree with the others that this piece does not need either a pedastel or finial, it looks great as is.

[Dick Wilson]

Tim, Sometimes you just have to take the time to try a number of bases/finials, etc. My first thought from the picture showing the base is the diameter looks good but I would only make the base maybe 1/4" high. That would give some lift to the piece. Because of the yellow in the Walnut I thought of Canary Wood. Visualizing that, I don't think a light wood would work for either the base or finial. I think the best look would be ebonized. As far as the finial - ??????????? It is up to you, but I think if it were me I would leave the top as is. Let the Walnut speak for itself Post final results please.

[Tim Thiebaut]

Thanks again to everyone! I will try and plan ahead next time, I am having a hard time with "finding" my form if that makes sence? I know that it comes with time and experience though so hopefully each one will be another step in that direction. Dont get me wrong, I am very happy with this form...but I want to get myself to the level of beautiful forms on high pedistals like a lot of you all are doing...a goal for me. I am very greatfull for all of the help and direction you have given me!

[Baxter Smith]

Nice HF Tim. I am looking forward to seeing it finished!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Really nice HF. I do like the form and myself with that piece would consider it done.

[Don Alexander]

+1 for leaving it as is that piece of Claro needs no help and the form looks good to me ............ nicely done

[Kathy Marshall]

Very nice Tim! The form looks great to me and the wood is gorgeous! Ditto what the others said, slap on some finish and call er done.

[Rich Aldrich]

I agree that it looks real nice as is. Nice job on this one, Tim. I really like the grain in this walnut.

[Michelle Rich]

I know this is not what you asked, BUT, I love it as is. i have a severe case of "simplicity". I think it's genetic. :-0 Such gorgeous wood & I think you nailed the shape. But others can help with the doodads for this. A lot of talented turners here that have good "eye". thanks for sharing this.

[John Hart]

Looks good as-is? Yep. Calling it done is a pretty good idea, so I won't argue. However, if you did decide to take it further, if it were me, I would add a ring of contrast that flared down to the 2" diameter of the ebony, then introduce the black wood. That gives room to make the transition from the round bottom to the coved introduction to the stem. But really...looks great as-is. :)

[Tim Thiebaut]

Morning all, I am going to call this piece good and just finish up final sanding and apply a finish. I agree Michelle that sometimes simplicity is the best route to go. Thanks to everyone for all of your input on this, and everything, it helps to keep my focus. I will post final pics once the finish has had a chance to cure...Tim

[Dick Wilson]

I know this is not what you asked, BUT, I love it as is. i have a severe case of "simplicity". I think it's genetic. :-0 Such gorgeous wood & I think you nailed the shape. But others can help with the doodads for this. A lot of talented turners here that have good "eye". thanks for sharing this.

Tim, And this is comes from a lady who produces some of the most spectacular, ornate, pierced pieces you will ever see. On your piece I agree with Michelle. No doodads!!! A very minimalist foot to raise the form off the table, like I said - a 1/4' at most.

[Tim Thiebaut]

Tim, And this is comes from a lady who produces some of the most spectacular, ornate, pierced pieces you will ever see. On your piece I agree with Michelle. No doodads!!! A very minimalist foot to raise the form off the table, like I said - a 1/4' at most.

Believe me Dick I feel honored by all of the comments/help/input I receive here, from everyone. I am extremly greatful to have found a place with not only talented people but friendly and generous people as well. This is the most unique website I have ever been to. And Dick I am going to take your advice to put a small foot on it just enough to raise it just a 1/4 off the table, thanks everyone! And your right, Michelle's turnings are absolutly beautiful!

[Steve Schlumpf]

Tim - I am a little late to the party on this one but wanted to let you know that I do like it - as is. Looking forward to seeing the photos once it is finished.

On future turnings - the reason everyone is having such a hard time coming up with a pedestal that would work with your form (in my opinion) is because of the location of the shoulder. Most times you want the should to be located 1/3 down from the top.... on this one, it is closer to 1/2. With it being located at that position - it appears balanced already and a pedestal would not work very well as it would affect that already established balance. When you design on paper or in your head - you can see where to place the shoulder and what curve to create to blend into a pedestal. Remember - you are looking for uninterrupted - smooth flowing - curves.

Good luck!