how to add hardwood edging to plywood panels

[tom coleman]

I am buiding my first furniture project shortly. Oak bookcase using 3/4 ply and hadwood facing. How shoud I attach 3/4 x 1" oak hardwood edging to playwood panels for top and shelves?

Should I tack and glue using a 23 gauge pin nailer? Will the porter cable 23gauge handle 3/4 oak? Anticipate buying that tool for this project.

or should I cut tongues on panels that insert into grooves in edging.

Thanks for your suggestions. I leave 90 degree Florida for 58 degree Maine cottage next week and this a high priority project

[Curt Putnam]

IMO, glue & pin will do the job just fine.

[Steve Ryan]

I always use a biscuit joiner because it helps with alignment. T&G when I have a lot of it to do and feel it is worth it for the setup.

[Curt Harms]

If I'm reading this right, the oak edging is 1" wide? The Porter Cable 23 ga. pinner only handles pins up to 1" long. If you have a biscuit joiner, here would be a primo place to use it. If you don't have a biscuit joiner, how about a router with slot cutting bit? Another trick to consider if you have a router is to make the edging a little thicker than the plywood. Attach it by whatever means making sure the edging overhangs the plywood on both side by a little bit. After the glue dries, trim the edging with a flush trim bit something like this: http://freudtools.com/p-176-downshear-helix-flush-trim-bits.aspxDon't overhang too much, just 1/16" or so. Using a spiral flush trim bit should reduce the likelihood of splintering or tearout. That should yield a nice nearly invisible joint. As always when trying something new, experiment on scrap first though I know time is short.

[Jim Matthews]

You can accomplish the same thing with a few rolls of blue "painter's tape".
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/3mlong-maskshoptape2x60yards.aspx

Stretch it a little, and align the strip as you go.
http://www.mefeedia.com/watch/30562848

No pin marks to fill, this way.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm with Jim, use tape or clamps to hold the edging on while the glue dries, that way you don't have holes in the edging..........Rod.

[John Mark Lane]

I just finished a set of bookcases. I'm lazy and I'm sure this is not the preferred way to do it, but I just used the iron-on edging. I've been using that stuff for 20 years on all kinds of things, and it works beautifully. If you are building art-quality furniture, fine, it's probably not appropriate. But for basic bookcases that are going to be painted, I don't see why one wouldn't use the stuff.

Mark

[Lee Schierer]

I would recommend a tounge & groove or v-slot edge attachment with the attached edging made slightly over size. Then you can trim if flush with the veneer on the plywod rather than risk sanding through that veneer if your edge piece is slightly lower than the surface of your plywood.

Just as a side note. Unless you use a high percentage of each plywood sheet, it is often less costly to build up panels and shelves out of solid wood than use plywood.

[glenn bradley]

As others have said, a pinner is for trim but, 1" is too much for most. T&G or biscuits are fine. For shelves, where the ends will be hidden, I just route a slot on each piece using the same reference surface and glue in a spline. Multiple-choice answers for this.

[Bill Huber]

I just use the tape and TB III, no nails at all.

I start out by putting the tape on the bottom of the shelf and letting about 12 inches hang. I then put the glue on and starting in the center pull the tape around and tight and add a Quick clamp on the edge to keep the edge banding centered, has worked very well so far.

[Jeremy Milam]

For the bookshelves I just finished I used biscuits with a jointer I bought for $50 on CL. Would do it again, no nails, aligned well. Just needed $5 in #20 biscuits, glue, and two $8 three way edge clamps. No holes, worked great and I think it also is adding strength to prevent bowing over time.

[Paul Symchych]

No need to get fancy. TB II or III; blue tape for alignment and clamps.

[Troy Turner]

Bad thing is you're pressed for time...good news is, you have lots of options. If you require a tool or bit, hopefully it'll be close enough where it doesn't take too much time to get it. I've never used them, but seen where they have bits that put an edge on the plywood then a mirror'd edge on the trim. Then you just glue them up and you're good to go. There's many different ones, but it's similar to this...This would be inline with your idea of t/g it together.http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/40362-01-500.jpg

[Chris Padilla]

As most of the other folks have said, glue and some kind of clamps works just great. I take it the edging is thick to add rigidity to the shelf? If *that* is the case, I'd be tempted to reinforce the joint with biscuits, dowels, splines, or dominoes. Splines are the cheapest if you don't own the tools to use the other joint ideas: a table saw is all you need for that.

[Lee Schierer]

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/40362-01-500.jpg

Okay, I thought of the same thing and was going to post the same photo, so I'm not questioning the use of these bits just their construction. What is the purpose of the guide bearings on these bits? Look at the sample pieces shown. There is no place for the guide bearings to ride upon. If they are used with a fence then no guide bearings are required either.:confused::confused:

[Charlie Barnes]

Tom,

You don't mention how wide (long) the shelves will be and what kind of load they will have. If you are planning to load it up with hard cover books or something else relatively heavy, you should consider using the edging to add some strength and prevent bowing. One simple way I've done this in the past is to cut a piece of solid edge material about 1 1/2" wide (you can use what ever width you want though as long as it's wider than the plywood is thick). Then cut a 3/8" high by 3/4"+ rabbet on the back side. Basically an "L" from and end view perspective. This will be the surface that you glue to the edge of the plywood. You can just clamp it since you have a lot of glue surface and won't need to use fasteners. Come back after it dries with a flush trim bit as mentioned above to trim off the little bit that is sticking out above the top surface of the shelf. This adds strength and visual mass which might also enhance the appearance of your project.

Good Luck.

[Don Jarvie]

I just finished a set of bookcases. I'm lazy and I'm sure this is not the preferred way to do it, but I just used the iron-on edging. I've been using that stuff for 20 years on all kinds of things, and it works beautifully. If you are building art-quality furniture, fine, it's probably not appropriate. But for basic bookcases that are going to be painted, I don't see why one wouldn't use the stuff.

Mark

+1. I made a kitchen cabinet out of birch and used the iron on edging and it worked great. Iron it on then use a utility knife to trim away the excess then take a sanding block and
sand so you push the excess back onto the shelf. This way the banding and veneer from the plywood meet and it doesn't show a gap.

I even stained my pieces and they came out great.

[Ib Rikhof]

I agree with Chris. I have always used a spline or more often biscuits. When gluing an edging to plywood without either of these, half of the glue surface is going to be end grain to face grain which of course has little strength. The other half is face grain to face grain but consists of separate very narrow regions which I would think (just an opinion - no proof) are not as strong as a single surface of the same total area. Splines or biscuits provide lots of face grain to face grain gluing surface. For this reason I use more biscuits than would be needed just for alignment.
I always glue on an edging a bit wider than the thickness of the plywood and then plane it to the surface of the plywood. A hand plane works fine but if the job is a bit bigger I use a electric powered hand held edging planer made by Virutex. If you use a router to trim the banding to the surface of the plywood I would advise making a jig where the axis of an end mill type bit is perpendicular to the surface of the plywood. This is much less likely to tear out chunks of the banding than anything where the axis of the bit is parallel to the surface of the plywood. Good luck - Ib

[Marty Paulus]

This is how I am planning on doing it. Cut a rabbit in the hardwood and glue to the ply wood. Could be pin nailed from the top and pin would hide..



193808

[Bruce Darrow]

I just use glue, clamps and cauls: I mill the edging oversize, and leave it just proud and plane it flush after the glue sets up. For cauls, I just use whatever plywood strip scraps are handy, and I find that parallel jaw clamps make things much easier. I align the proud edge progressively as I tighten the clamps - the plywood I get is all too frequently not flat (sigh). Just feel with your fingertips, being careful not to smear too much glue squeezeout - a careful glue application (thin - both surfaces) helps avoid this.

[Larry Rasmussen]

When I got my 23 gauge trimmer I had high expectations. It has a 1 5/8 capacity. I tried to use it to affix oak trim to ply as you were originally inquiring about. You did the right thing by asking first, I just ended up with a mess. These days I will just use a spline if it is really important (an when isn't it I guess).

To Lee- looks like the bearings simply mark the point where you have reached full cut for each. Assuming use on a router table and sneaking up on the cut a little at a time it would keep things easy and consistent from piece to piece.

[Bret Duffin]

193853Here are two methods. I use the simple rabbet, glued and clamped most often. You could nail it to save time but 1/2 hour in the clamps is all you need and then you don't have those ugly nails holes. The rabbet self aligns easily. A little micro bevel where the edge meets the shelf on the top edge would eliminate much of the flush sanding. Don't use wood tape, I think it's a sin although I've done it too.

Bret

[John Mark Lane]

193853... Don't use wood tape, I think it's a sin although I've done it too.

Bret


Why use plywood at all, then? When you think about it, the tape is really just small plywood.

[Bret Duffin]

On a nice shelf that you are going to look at for many years you want wood tape? Wouldn't you agree that a nice solid wood edging will look better, be stronger and last longer? Hardwood veneered plywood has many practical applications and is the right choice for many situations and the factory applied veneer is there to stay. I would not say that say that about iron on wood tape. Like I said, I've used it. I just don't like using it and will choose not to if I have an alternative. Just my $00.02.


Bret

[John Mark Lane]

On a nice shelf that you are going to look at for many years you want wood tape? Wouldn't you agree that a nice solid wood edging will look better, be stronger and last longer? Hardwood veneered plywood has many practical applications and is the right choice for many situations and the factory applied veneer is there to stay. I would not say that say that about iron on wood tape. Like I said, I've used it. I just don't like using it and will choose not to if I have an alternative. Just my $00.02.


Bret


I guess for me it depends on the application. If it's going to be painted, and there is no structural or strength issue (as in a short-span bookcase for a child's room or playroom or something), then the tape makes a lot of sense to me. If it's something that is going to be stained or clear-coated, that may be a different story. But even then, it depends on the application. A casual den or playroom, it can be plenty adequate.

I've never heard anyone report the stuff coming off. That's an interesting comment. Just curious if you've seen it happen, or just concerned that it might happen?

I agree, wood tape is not for art pieces, or fine furniture, or high end built-ins. But for simple, pragmatic uses like everyday bookcases... I dunno, like I said maybe I'm just lazy, but I think it's pretty darn good.

[John TenEyck]

Limited time and equipment would suggest either a spline groove in both pieces or rabett, since both can be cut on the table saw, and they are highly effective as well. As for the pin nailer, I have the PC 23 gage nailer. Nice little tool, but I only use it where I pretty much have no easy alternative, like attaching small trim peices etc.. The hole it leaves is small, for sure, but it's still there. In your case, you have easy alternatives so I'd go with one of them.

[Derrell W Sloan]

I know you might not have one but I love my Kreg pocket hole jig for attaching trim molding to shelves. It is super fast and strong and no waiting for glue to dry. And if you feel you must you can always plug the pocket holes. It might not be the best solution in all cases but it certainly does a great job in many of them. Just something else to consider.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Okay, I thought of the same thing and was going to post the same photo, so I'm not questioning the use of these bits just their construction. What is the purpose of the guide bearings on these bits? Look at the sample pieces shown. There is no place for the guide bearings to ride upon. If they are used with a fence then no guide bearings are required either.:confused::confused:

Think curved edge.... First, cut your pattern. Lay patterns on top of the first piece and use the guide bit to follow the curve. Repeat with the other guide bit on the other piece of wood. Just a guess.