Can there be too much shop time? (oh, and a question)

[Mike OMelia]

A week ago, major storms took our power down here in Alabama. Facilities where I work are still not functioning (but back in a day or so). Sooooo, I have been working in the shop on the Toy Box, non-stop. (got a generator, now back on street juice). Got to say, I'm a bit tired of sawdust. I will post pics of the project tomorrow. At the assembly stage!

I do have ONE question. Looking at the back of the seat, my intention was to float the panel in the frame, the same as I did for all of the 4 base panels. This required dado cuts in the frame. How do I do the same for the curved part of the frame? The frame is two laminated layers of 13/16" maple, sanded down to 1.5". I have not built this part yet, so any ideas are open to implementation!


Mike

[Mike OMelia]

One more question. I bought some 3/4" maple plywood for the bottom. After thinking about it, I am now wondering if I should not use the same for the lid. No doubt it is stronger. I can dress the edges, etc. What do you all think? I have enough ply to do both the bottom and the lid.

Mike

[Jim Matthews]

Do you have a router table?

Using a "top" bearing bit, you can follow the curve with the bearing and buy a slot cutter for the desired depth.
Build the frame first, make an MDF template to fit inside the frame less your desired clearance. One for the front, one for the back.
http://woodworkersworld.net/slotting_bits.shtml

Using a "top" bearing bit, you could treat each side of the tenon as a rabbet.
http://woodworkersworld.net/template_bits.shtml

Gang the pieces together with double sided tape to the template, and cut them all at once.

Use a bandsaw to trim the tenons down to your required lengths.
If you have a bandsaw with a fence, a single point "finger" could ride on the same MDF template to set your lengths.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=410

Interesting problem!

[Brian Vaughn]

I've gotta agree with Jim on this one, although if you don't have a router table, you can ride the router on the piece as you do it, but be careful to keep it very level. The other way would be to cut rabbets in both laminations before glue up, using a bottom bearing bit. That way it makes the slot after glue up, but again, you're probably still going to use that router. You might be able to pull it off with a rabbeting plane, and the fence offset just enough for the curve, but that would probably be a much bigger pain than it's worth.

As for the actual back pieces, this is where I differ....I would glue them up first, then cut to shape, then rabbet, but that's just me. In that case, a rabbeting plane would work fine, since it's an outside curve. But again, a router would be much faster. I will say that the router requires either a template and top bearing, or a bottom bearing rabbeting bit. (I'm lazy, I draw my shape on the wood, cut it out, then use the new cut to ride the bearing against, so I don't have to make an additional template)

As for the ply lid, I think it's an aesthetic decision. A good glue up in solid wood should hold up just fine. Especially if you have some braces underneath. My only concern is over time, that the natural curve of one's posterior lines up with the fault lines of the wood and glue. Eventually it could be an issue, but I'd wager that won't be for a long long time to come.

[Mike OMelia]

Thanks! I have a router table and after thinking about it, I agree. Thanks!

Mike

[Ryan Hellmer]

Blasphemy! Tired of sawdust?! No, it's understandable. I have never had the occasion to spend more than 2 or 3 solid days in the shop and I'll admit that it can become a bit less enjoyable (this usually happens in the middle of remodeling projects more than strict woodworking projects). I've always said, I probably wouldn't do it if I had to, it's a fantastic hobby though.

Oh yeah, on the curved panel, raised panel doors usually have different radii for the rail and the panel. Depending on the width of the panel, this may not be an issue. I would make the curve of the panel the same as the top of the rail, not the bottom. I too would use a patern/guided bit and I may be one that prefers handheld routing int his application. Just trim the cutline pretty close. Routing 1/16 is no problem, more than that can make it interesting.

Ryan

[glenn bradley]

Got to say, I'm a bit tired of sawdust.

Sacrilege! Heresy! I cast you out! :D:D:D