Dyed and Varnished...

[Andrew Yang]

http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lknf9gzm4J1qguagg.jpg (http://newcanuckworkshop.tumblr.com)

This is following two applications of a water soluble aniline dye, a coat of satin finish wiping poly varnish and a coat of full strength poly varnish. The picture was taken before the brush marks leveled. I didn't sand following the wiping varnish coat since it seemed the wiping coat was super thin. Following the full coat, I gave it a scrub down with #000 steel wool before applying a 2nd coat of full strength varnish. I think I'm at the "Finishing the Finish" stage and am contemplating what the next step should be. I picked up some 400/600 grit Abranet discs, and 1500A/2000A wet/dry. I'm not sure if want to jump into the pumice/rottenstone/wax thing. If I'm reading Flexner correctly, it seems to me that I could just rub the finish down with the #000 but the varnish just looked like I ran over it with a 320 grit sandpaper. No more sheen, just scratches.

Comments/suggestions?

[Scott Holmes]

Poly does not buff up to a higher gloss than it is when it first dries. It too tough, not hard enough.

Another issue is you have not let the poly cure; which takes 3-4 weeks. It will be harder than it is now, but will never be as hard as the non-poly varnishes.

Steel wool between coats is not a great idea... even if the marketing guys recomemend it on the label... remember they are word gurus, not finishers.

I say never use steel wool between coats.

Reason #1 you will leave shards of steel wool behind; then you will top coat it. Now you have steel wool IN your finish when water vapor get to it, and it will, it will RUST - IN YOUR FINISH.

Reason #2 Many steel wool products have oil to keep them from rusting so now you have oil on your surface... bad idea.

Reason #3 Poly does not stick well to itself or anything else for that matter that is why they tell you to sand between coats. Steel wool abrades the finish; it does not give enough "tooth" for poly to adhere well. 220 sand paper 320 at the finest.

There are other varnishes that are harder and better than poly for furniture; poly should be used on floors, period.

[Andrew Yang]

Well that's nearly all a downer. I used a synthetic steel wool, so reasons #1 & #2 shouldn't be an issue. I know about leaving the poly for a longer cure time when I finally go to finish the finish, as it were. I just wasn't sure how differently the varnish would act with the steel wool after a longer cure. Since the polyurethane varnish was one of the finishes carried by LV and listed in Flexner's book, I thought it would be acceptable for furniture. Bob doesn't really go into finishes for floors...

[Scott Holmes]

Sorry didn't mean to be a downer. Synthetic steelwool is better than real stelwool between coats.

If you want a satin finish you can buff it in a week or so... some will say it's OK now for a satin finish. If you want the glossest possible finish then give it a few weeks and buff it with a brown paper bag wet with mineral spirits. There's just enough clay in the paper bags to knock down any dust bunnies, without completely killing the gloss.

[Andrew Yang]

Hi Scott,
I'm actually after a satin finish. I'm using a satin poly. I'm actually just wondering what the best way of flattening and smoothing the finish is. Sand and steel wool or pumice/rottenstone/wax? Combination?

[Scott Holmes]

Pumice and Rottenstone are the old school way they are both messy. I only use them in class to show how messy they are.

I'd use sand paper and/or steelwool for a satin finish.

[Andrew Yang]

Thanks. Read your profile, too bad none of your sons are interested in woodworking. It's never too late though. I'm fully 10 months in at the ripe age of 33.