Shaper and Powerfeeder Question - Part Deux

[Larry Fox]

I asked a while ago about using a shaper without a power feeder and got some great responses. However, I now have a shaper with a powerfeeder and am in the process of setting it up to cut the sticking for raised panel doors and have a question regarding setup.

The shaper is a Grizzley 1026 and the feeder is one of their little 1/4 hp 3-wheeled models.

My issue is that I am having difficulty getting the stock to track properly to the fence. I have read that it needs to be "toed" in towards the fence a bit. Seems like one setting pulls it away from the fence as it tracks and a very small adjustment (about the smallest I can see how to make) causes the stock to "dive" into the cutter.

Pretty frustrating but I am also fairly convinced I am missing something fundamental because it seems these things can't be this temperamental and be able to produce consistent and reliable results.

One idea that has occurred to me and I experimented with last night was creating a really wide featherboard that is thin enough to not interfere with the feeder.

What are the tips / tricks on setting these things up?

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

[David Kumm]

I have used a wide featherboard with a feeder alot. Narrow pieces sometimes need help on the back side as the cutters want to push the rear of the piece out and the feeder slips. Wax your table before you begin. Helps also. Aigner makes a nice holder for manual feeding as well. There is a learning curve to using a feeder. Too much or too little downward pressure cause problems. You may need to help the feeder and push the piece sometimes as well. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Larry, do you have one wheel after the cutter and a couple before the cutter?

Other items are a zero clearance fence so that the work can't move into the cutter, or a set of Aigner bars that bridge the two fences to prevent the tipping in.

To me, the little feeders looked too small physically to properly bridge the opening in the shaper fence.......Regards, Rod.

P.S. I looked up the Grizzly 1/4HP feeder, it's not as small as I thought. Check the above stuff and let us know please.

[Jeff Monson]

On a 3 wheel feeder, I like the cutter to be between the 1st and 2nd wheel. I also like as much wheel contact with the stock as possible, centering the cutter between wheels helps you get it closer. Keep the feeder wheels as close to the fence as possible. I usually run my outfeed fence in about a 32nd from the infeed fence to keep the stock from catching the fence. Get the fence opening as small as possible. Make sure to have proper pressure on the wheels also, I use about 3/8" of pressure.

I usually set up my fence, cutter and feeder, then lower the cutter and make a few "dry runs" with the feeder to make sure everything tracks straight.

Hope this helps, I know it takes some trial and error to get the feel for proper feeder setup.

[david brum]

I'm using a 3 wheeled "baby feeder" and ran into the same problem. My solution was indeed to make a long feather board. I used a long strip of 1/2" plywood which spans the width of the shaper table. I glued that high friction drawer liner material to the base. Then I screwed on some spare cheapo plastic feather boards, just on either side of the feeder. I clamp the ends onto the table with quick clamps. Without the drawer liner material, the feather board wants to slip back.

With the feather board in place, sniping is eliminated. There isn't much pressure needed, just enough the keep the end of the wood from diving into the cutter.

You could also buy a set of green Board Buddies.

[J.R. Rutter]

For sticking, I think that it is far easier to use an outboard trap fence. This is the only old photo that I could lay my virtual hands on. It shows that simply by clamping a low profile board to the shaper table, you can have the outside edge of the sticking ride the continuous fence while the inside gets trimmed to width by the sticking cutter. I use a more sophisticated system now, but the concept is the same.
http://home.nas.com/harmonic/NewShop/sticking%20spacer.jpg

[Chip Lindley]

I'm with JR! Door sticking is cut accurately and easily, using an outboard fence. Trying to push it against a split shaper fence only adds obstacles that promote hangups and bobbles.

Before I acquired a power feeder, I used Weaver's sticker plate, pushing pieces through by hand, finishing with a push stick. The plate can be used with a power feeder just as well by removing the manual hold-down and skewing the feeder to push slightly against the outboard fence. It works like a charm every time!

193687

No need to be this elaborate. A simple outboard fence can be securely clamped to your shaper table and shimmed to cut an exact width rail or stile part. It need not be fancy; just straight and smooth.

[Steve Ryan]

+1 with JR and Chip. Outboard fence with feeder pushing stock against outboard fence. This will accurately mill your sticking to width and eliminate snipe. Power feeder provides better cut because it dampens vibration and the constant feed prevents burning of the stock. You will also get better cutter life.

[Larry Fox]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will give some of these a try tonight.