Gluing Dowels where the Hole Goes Through Both Pieces of Wood Being Joined

[Aaron Kitchell]

Hi All,

I've found that when I use dowels in wood toys, and the hole goes entirely through both pieces of wood being connected, that I don't get good contact between the dowel and the wood and often times the dowel comes loose because the majority of the glue is pushed out when the dowel is inserted. I know there are fluted dowels that can be used to increase surface area, but if I purchase 3' dowel rods and cut to size, are there effective methods for effectively gluing this type of joint? Note that movement is typically required (i.e. gluing an axle that runs through the body of a car and into each wheel where the hole is drilled completely through the wheel).

Hopefully this makes sense and thanks for your help.

Aaron

[Jim Matthews]

Two things;

Do you apply wax to the part you wish to rotate, prior to glue-up?

Can you put tape over the outer part of the wheel?

It would seem to me that this should be done in two stages; get one side fixed first.

[Aaron Kitchell]

I'm not applying wax prior to glue up.

Are you thinking the tape would prevent the glue from squeezing out? I think what happens is that most of the glue squeezes out so what's left doesn't create a solid bond. Should I drill the hole bigger than the dowel? Maybe 1/32 or 1/64 bigger?

[Kent A Bathurst]

Are you thinking the tape would prevent the glue from squeezing out?

Sounds like you have a tight fit, and are pushing the glue out - no room for it in the joint. Tape won't help.


Should I drill the hole bigger than the dowel? Maybe 1/32 or 1/64 bigger?

That would probably work - you didn't mention what type of glue you are using - plain-ol' PVA glue isn't really known for "gap-filling" propereties, but with a pertty close fit, I'd think it would work. If not, epoxy will definitely fill the gaps.

You might want to reconsider the dowels - the fluted or spiral would work ducky, and they really aren't very costly - with PVA glue, it would be cheaper than the epoxy glue. I actually prefer the spiral these days, but I've used both a lot over the years.

[James Watson]

Just brainstorming here....

Perhaps you could devise some sort of tool to add fluting to the inside of the hole in the toy? I'm thinking something like an undersized dowel with a pin or blade of some sort attached. Or add flutes to just the middle section of the dowel?

Maybe an undersized tap could be used to thread the first inch or so of the hole from either end? I say undersized, so it would not deform the wood enough to be visible after assembly.

Of course, you can always add a key to your design, so you didn't rely on glue to fix the axle to the body - that's probably way too complicated, though :-)

Use two separate dowels?

I read an article recently about chair construction. The author "super-dried" his round tenons before assembly into an undersized mortise. As the tenon soaked up glue & humidity, an interference fit resulted. Perhaps a variation on that theme would work?

[Myk Rian]

I use an artists brush to apply glue to the hole that would otherwise be starved of it.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I know there are fluted dowels that can be used to increase surface area
There's also fluted compressed dowels.
They go in a little "loose" and swell up to a tight fit - just like bisquits...

Google compressed dowels.

[Dell Littlefield]

I have often used a pair of pliers to make flutes on dowels in similar situations. Just a little squeeze on the part you want to hold fast. Make sure the pliers don't have oil on the teeth.

[Lee Schierer]

I find that most dowels are slightly under size so a tight fit isn't usually a problem for me. I apply glue to the hole and spread it on the entire surface with a smaller dowel and also to the surface of the dowel before it is pushed in. Fluting the dowel a bit with pliers as Dell suggested will leave places for the glue to stay in place during the insertion process. PVA glue will quickly swell up the grooves made by the pliers. You can also use a small hand plane to put s flat on the dowel where it will be inside the hole where you want the glue.

Urethane glue although messy doesn't wipe off easily. Just look at the black marks on your hands after using it no matter how much you wiped your hands with a rag.

[Joe Angrisani]

1) Take a piece of scrap 1x1x4, with the grain running the long way.

2) Drill a hole the size of your dowel near one end.

3) Crosscut the scrap through the hole so you are left with half a hole at the end of the scrap.

4) Screw or clamp a utility knife blade to the scrap so it overhangs the half hole by 1/16".

4.1) Presto. Near-instant beading tool for your size dowel. Just drag it down the dowel stock before you cut them to length. One groove should be fine to let the glue out. You may have to drag it two or three times to scrape the groove.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Joe - now THAT'S clever. And easy to do. <insert forehead dope slap here>

Kent

[Eddie Darby]

"Understanding wood: a craftsman's guide to wood technology" By R. Bruce Hoadley

Chapter 6 page 128 deals with dowels in woodworking.

I would also try soaking the dowel hole with glue, so that the endgrain part has a chance to soak-up extra glue, to avoid a 'starved' joint later.

[Aaron Kitchell]

Great idea for a jig. Thanks!

[Danny Burns]

Drill a hole the size of your dowel, and then just screw in from the side of the hole so the screw tip protrudes the desired depth you want for glue to squeeze out of the dowel, and drag/hammer your dowel through letting the screw scratch it.
When the screw gets dull, just replace it.