First time with cermark

[Zlatan Vuckovic]

i just received a small sample of the cermark, I read somewhere that you have to mix with alcohol to brush or spray it, is that true. Im thinking of brushing on small name tags and on some stainless coffee mugs. Not much in the sample hate to waste it by not knowing what to do. Thanks.

[Andrea Weissenseel]

normally you don't thin it when you brush it on - with the brush it is hard to get an thin and even coat, it's better to use an airbrush.

[Dan Hintz]

I mix mine about 10:1 with alcohol and spray. If you use a lot of it, you can wash off the excess when you're done lasering, collect it in a bowl, and let the water evaporate... it reconstitutes with alcohol quite nicely.

[Ron Hartl]

I mix mine about 10:1 with alcohol and spray. If you use a lot of it, you can wash off the excess when you're done lasering, collect it in a bowl, and let the water evaporate... it reconstitutes with alcohol quite nicely.

10:1? My Cermark was really thick, I probably ended up close to 50/50 with DNA to get it to spray.

[Dan Hintz]

Ron,

10 parts alcohol, 1 part Cermark...

[Ron Hartl]

Ron,

10 parts alcohol, 1 part Cermark...

Ok, now that makes more sense! Thanks Dan!

[Chris DeGerolamo]

I usually split Cermark with DNA at least 2:1 then brush with foam brush. I never push hard, I only use surface tension to pull it off the brush if that makes sense.

[Zlatan Vuckovic]

Thanks everyone, will try the brushing, otherwise I have to buy a new toy (airbrush).

[Bill Cunningham]

A wide soft artist brush used in the method Chris said above works too.. I keep a jar of Mixed Cermark/Alcohol in the cupboard, and just shake the heck out of it to mix it up when I'm going to use it, then use the soft brush 'one pass'. If you go over it again, it ruins the even surface you get with the single soft pass.. Let it dry, then laser

[Tony Lenkic]

Zlatan - For airbrush you will need an air compressor. The other option is to use Preval spray gun for 5.00 or less.
Here is what it looks like.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEcZfZHB98A&NR=1

[Dan Hintz]

Great Promotional video for Preval spray gun, showing multiple industry uses
I guess their idea of "great" is quite a bit different than mine... the entire video is a still image of several bottles with text rolling by. I expected to see the thing in action. Someone needs to get their promo dept. involved next time around...

[paul mott]

Hey Dan,

After the promo has run there are lots of video's of it in action for you to view. :D

Personally I think it may be one of those products which look too good to be true (doesn't seem to be available here in the UK so can't try it anyway :( )

Paul.

[Tony Lenkic]

Dan, I chose that video because it is only 30 sec just for the OP to see the part.
There are longer once for more details.

[Zlatan Vuckovic]

Thanks Bill, will try that.

[Dan Hintz]

Dan, I chose that video because it is only 30 sec just for the OP to see the part.
There are longer once for more details.
Just bustin' chops, Tony... I found it amusing it was a video at all. Could have been served just as well with a JPEG :)

[Zlatan Vuckovic]

I it mixed with alcohol, just filed the container with it, it was only half filled with cermark, and shook it. Used a foam brush and it turned out great on brass, slowed it down allot at 100 power. Looks good, reflection of the popcorn ceiling shows in the picture of the letter. Thanks for all the help. http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae323/zlatanv/0505111110.jpg

[Mark Sipes]

Any one order MetalFix .. Just saw this on the Trotec products page?? Wondering if this is only available in Europe ... Trotec USA sent me a rep that had no idea what I was talking about..... I use Cermark in a can (convenience) ... and save leftovers...

MetalFix http://www.trotec.net/TrodatCMS/images/common/Clear.gif
MetalFix is a special emulsion that enables permanent laser engraving of blank metals (e.g. stainless steel, brass, etc.) using a CO2 laser.

Because it can be mixed with water, MetalFix is highly economical – 17.5 ounces (500 g), for example, will yield 1,000 2.4 x 3.2 inch (80 x 60 mm) signs. Simply apply, dry, and engrave, then remove any extra material. An added bonus: the leftover MetalFix can be washed and re-used for other projects!

Available in bottles of 7 and 17.5 ounces (200 or 500 g).

[Andrew Mammoliti]

Just buy it in a can already mixed, 75.00 bucks, you can spray hundreds of tags in mins. Turn over for one can is over a grand if not more! More so you are saving time!! In applying, which means you can do something else and make $$$.

[Bruce Volden]

I have to chime in here--sorry. Back in 1997 I purchased 2 lbs. (2#) of "cerdec" as it was called at that time. I was doing many many BBQ handles, tongs, forks.... I thought the price of the cerdec was HIGH!!! I had NO idea of how this stuff worked, how many items I could mark, how long it was good for, etc. It is now 2011 and I have about 1/4# left from that purchase. I, like Dan, thin it out where I can just see the substrate through it and engrave away. My initial investment of about $300 has made at leaset 50 X's that! I have no means of air brushing / spraying it--I could buy the stuff needed. Instead I rely TOTALLY on the cheap foam brushes, I find they're fast easy and economical for what I do. I should point out that I not only applied this to "little" items like knives, forks, spoons.... but also to large stainless signage 2' X 2' using the same cheapo foam brushes! This stuff is as advertised and lasts. The main thing is to thin it out and keep things simple, to a watery consistency. That being said I've not had consistent result on chrome, brass, silver:(

Bruce

[Mike Null]

The best method of application depends on the job. Normally I like to air brush Cermark but I'm marking the stainless handles on 500 pan lids and am using a foam brush trimmed down to size. This allows me to just wipe off the remaining Cermark with a rag rather than take the time to wash and dry the pan lids. It's also faster than spraying in this instance.

[Mike Null]

Some have complained that Cermark stains certain kinds of steel. I recently had that occur on some sword blades I was marking. I found that by using some metal polish I was able to remove the stain. (I happened to use aluminum polish as that's what I had handy.)

Picture quality isn't great but you can see the stain and the picture with the stain removed. It didn't require a lot of work.

The swords were 6 feet long and were groomsmen's gifts.

[Frank Corker]

I must admit that when there are a lot of things that need to be cermarked I will use an airbrush because it will economically apply the mix and give an even coverage, but small items and not many of them, I use those tiny triangular shaped foam pads women normally apply their make up with. There again I know some women who need to apply there makeup with an airbrush!

[paul mott]

There again I know some women who need to apply there makeup with an airbrush!

Nice one Frank but I think I am glad that I don't know any like that (wonder if they are expensive to run) :D

Paul.

[Mike Null]

Frank

Dee's gonna getcha for that one.

[Tony Lenkic]

Mike - Was it MetAll that you used for polishing?

[Mike Null]

Tony

It was.

[Dee Gallo]

FRANK! Shades of Bladerunner.... airbrush makeup is hot!

[Bill Cunningham]

Nice one Frank but I think I am glad that I don't know any like that (wonder if they are expensive to run) :D

Paul.

I think most of them run several hundred dollars an hour:eek:.. Not that I have ever personally run one!:p

[Tammy Larrabee]

OP just be aware of your power and speed settings, the thickness of your cermark, and the ppi/dpi/scan gap (whatever your laser calls it)

Cermark is a learning curve *hits self in head with hammer*