creating slot for splitter in a TS insert

[Rob Blaustein]

Hey, you splitter users out there,
I'm going to get a removable splitter with pawls--probably a Bies or Delta--for my Grizzly 1023SL. What's the best way to cut the slot out in my (plastic) zero clearance insert to accommodate the splitter? Do you use a bandsaw and then a chisel? Make a kerf with the TS blade (or dado)? If the latter, how would I set up the cut? Can one safely make a cut that doesn't go through the length of something, i.e. is it safe to pull it back?
-Rob

[Steve Stube]

I suggest you check into what Grizzly offers as an insert to be used with a splitter. They may offer one with additional ribbing (support) on the underside for that purpose. Yes you can pull wood or plastic back out without a continuous cut thru but I wouldn't attempt it at all without a blade insert below. My concern with modifying your plastic zero clearance insert is that there may not be the necessary strength after cutting to support your work safely. I personally do not use a zero clearance inset and splitter at the same time and my inserts for use with a splitter are made of metal - others such as Grizzly may have another way to do it.

[Norman Hitt]

Hey, you splitter users out there,
I'm going to get a removable splitter with pawls--probably a Bies or Delta--for my Grizzly 1023SL. What's the best way to cut the slot out in my (plastic) zero clearance insert to accommodate the splitter? Do you use a bandsaw and then a chisel? Make a kerf with the TS blade (or dado)? If the latter, how would I set up the cut? Can one safely make a cut that doesn't go through the length of something, i.e. is it safe to pull it back?
-Rob

Rob, with your sawblade lowered below the table, lay your ZCI Exactly on top of the insert that is in the saw, hold it in place, and carefully move your fence over to touch the edge of the ZCI and lock the fence. Due to the curve of the blade, it will cut further into the ZCI at the bottom than at the top, so place a stop mark on your fence so you can stop the cut when the blade has cut as far as you need it to go "On The Bottom" of the ZCI. Now make the cut and stop at the mark and turn the saw off. When the blade is stopped, pull the ZCI back from the blade. You will now need to use a hacksaw or other to extend the cut on the top of the ZCI so the cut is straight up & down from the top to the bottom of the ZCI.

[Hoa Dinh]

I put the stock insert in the opening, set the rip fence against the right side, raise the blade as high as I can, put a mark where the new insert should stop, turn the TS on, cut the slot for the splitter in the new insert, pull it back. That's it.

The slot may be 1/2" longer than needed on the top side of the ZCI, but that has no effect.

[Dave Harker]

I just did this yesterday for my 1023SL, on grizzly's zero-clearance insert that I bought with the saw.

The bottom of my insert was hollowed-out or scooped-out both where the blade will penetrate thru, and where the splitter goes thru it. That scooped-out area marks the correct location of the cut for the splitter, so placement of cutout was not an issue.

To actually cut the remaining top surface away, I first drilled a hole at the end of the splitter opening closest to the saw blade. I did this to make the blade-end of the splitter cutout look better (rounded). Then I used the table saw (with stock blade insert in place) to cut the small slot for the splitter.

Good luck,
Dave

[Shawn Swafford]

I marked the slot that I wanted to cut out and drilled a hole at the end of it. I then cut it out on the bandsaw and cleaned up the cut with a file so it looked nice. Just did this two hours ago so it's pretty fresh in my mind :) .