Gluing Advice

[Glen Paveglio]

I want the final dimensions of piece of white oak to be 1.5+ “ X 12” X 14”. Is the following procedure appropriate and will I end up with cracking problems if I use this process? Except for the top quarter- sawed veneer, all pieces will be cut from the same white oak board.

· I will start with 2 pieces of 1” X 6.5” x 14.5” and 2 pieces of ½” X 6.5” X 14.5” of white oak from the same board.
· Each piece of 1” X 6.5” x 14.5” and ½” X 6.5” X 14.5” would be glued together to create two pieces 1½” X 6.5” X 14.5”.
· Each of the 1½” X 6.5” X 14.5” would have a piece of quarter-sawed highly flecked +/- 1/16” piece of veneer applied with standard yellow glue.
· The edges of each of veneered 1½” X 6.5” X 14.5” would be jointed and then edge glued.
· The pieces would then then be cut to final width and length.
· A 45 degree chamfered edge will be cut so the bottom of chamfer would stop right where the ½” piece meets the 1” piece so that the edge where the pieces were glued together will not be obvious.

Thanks

[Mitch Barker]

I feel like I'm reading some kind of puzzler. Are you saying that you'll the layers wil be: 1/2,1,veneer? If so, thats a recipe for warpage. You should always make the sandwich symmetrical. For example: bread, cheese, meat, cheese, bread.

[Steve Schoene]

Why not use 6/4 (or 8/4) quartersawn white oak? Much easier, and much more stable, more durable, and easier to stain and finish.

And I agree with Mitch about the veneer. If you use veneer it must be used on both sides--if not, it may end up looking like a potato chip.

[Jamie Buxton]

If the grain of all the lumber and the veneer is running the same direction, veneering one side is fine. Balanced construction is necessary if the veneer grain is running is across the grain of the substrate. If the grain of everything is running the same direction, it equivalent to a single thick board.

When I laminate layers together, I cut the parts oversize, laminate, and then trim to final size. Layers squooge around on the glue lubricant while you're trying to clamp them together.

[Glen Paveglio]

Thanks for the responses. Sorry my post was not clear. The layers will be, veneer, 1/2", 1". The 1/2", 1" will be cut from the same board and the grain of all of the pieces (including the veneer) will be running in the same direction. Jamie, thanks for advice, I will cut the parts oversize and trim to final size.

[scott vroom]

What's the application?

Have you considered making the 1-1/2" core from 6/4 poplar, or some other less expensive species, to which you can apply a plain sawn oak edgeband and qs veneer on the top surface? If the core is not visible why go to the trouble and extra expense of face gluing then edge gluing the 4 oak boards as you described?

[Glen Paveglio]

These boards will be the base of speaker stands which I attempted to design in a "mission style". The stands will have 1.5" square quarter-sawed legs with 3 QS slats on the sides. The top and bottom will be attached with mortise and tenon joinery. Again, I apologize for the lack of clarity in my initial post, only the two halves will be joined, I will not face glue the edges of the base.

The reason I'm constructing the entire project out of oak is to have a solid heavy base to support the speakers so they are stable and provide the "best" platform for sound transmission. Many commercially available speaker stands are made out of heavy metal and can be weighted with lead to provide a very solid base.

[scott vroom]

These boards will be the base of speaker stands which I attempted to design in a "mission style". The stands will have 1.5" square quarter-sawed legs with 3 QS slats on the sides. The top and bottom will be attached with mortise and tenon joinery. Again, I apologize for the lack of clarity in my initial post, only the two halves will be joined, I will not face glue the edges of the base.

The reason I'm constructing the entire project out of oak is to have a solid heavy base to support the speakers so they are stable and provide the "best" platform for sound transmission. Many commercially available speaker stands are made out of heavy metal and can be weighted with lead to provide a very solid base.

Sounds like you have a plan; good luck with your project!