Jimmy Clewes clinic Platter and Finish question

[John Nowack]

193079193078

Figured maple with anolyn (sp?) dye---critiques welcome

For the finish we used Danish oil to get the immediate shine but now it is orange peeled and dusty...What can I do to remove or smooth out that finish and put lacquer (I prefer lacquer any way)...concerned about getting into the color...I don't want to touch it at all if possible

[David Reed]

Lovely form and this wood and the dye job are stellar.
I have had the orange peel effect myself and solved it with either wet steel wool or very fine wet paper. Perhaps add another coat or two to build a little thickness then wet sand to protect the lovely dye.

[John Keeton]

Orange peel sure seems strange with Danish oil?!? Sounds like a contaminated surface. I do agree on building a finish before you attempt to smooth this one out. Perhaps, since you like lacquer, some brush on Deft lacquer - build a few coats, then wet sand it with MS and 600, then 1200. Then buff.

Wonderul work on this one. You are on a roll with these clinics!! I am envious.

A little info on the dye process would be neat.;)

[Steve Vaughan]

Just wondering here, just to be sure...the danish oil isn't a topcoat, but is made to apply and let it soak well into the wood, then after a few minutes wipe off the excess, let it dry well before applying a topcoat. Could that be the issue? It looks to me like the danish might have been applied such that the wood was 'wet' with it and then left to dry.

Anyhow, I think I'd reapply some danish and use #0000 steel wool to see if you can rub it out, that shouldn't hurt the dye job. Or, you might try steel wook and mineral spirits. Following that, wipe it down good and after curing topcoat with a few coats of laquer and steel wool that out once dry. That is a beautiful bowl and a really nice dye job!

[Michelle Rich]

that lovely figure sure shows up in the dye..an amazing piece of wood

[John Nowack]

Ok John I will try,

jimmy clewes has lots of info on it and it is his process (or at least he taught it to me so "to me" it's "his" process)
1. has to be alcohol based aniline dye
2. dark color first working your way to lighter (this one is blue then greeen then yellow)
3. THERE ARE MANY STEPS THAT INVOLVED FIRE FLAMES AND A SPINNING LATHE....I WILL LEAVE THAT PART OUT AND LET IT BE SAVED FOR A CLASS ROOM...Let's just say itdry's instantly if you do the extra #3 step I am leaving out
4. sand the 1st layer slightly with 600 grit...then lightly fill inthe exposed grain patern with the green (you are trying to follow the patter n and not the grain nessacarily)
5. repeat step through your lightest color
6. spray liberal amount of dentured alcohol to allow everthing to blend to gether 9you do not want it to bleed so the instant drying process is a goodtrick but again I won't gp there.

don't try this at home...I am not liable for any comments about fire etc. Don't listen to me as I am not an expert....and any other legal jargon that gets me out of liabilty for typing this!!

[Jamie Donaldson]

The problem with aniline dyes is that they are not at all light safe(archival quality) and will fade quickly when exposed to any significant amount of light, especially fluorescent or daylight. Metallic acid dyes like TransTints, or pigments such as acrylic paint or drawing inks are much more light safe, and I most often mix them with alcohol to speed drying without raising the grain, and I stay away from open flames around the lathe shavings!.

[Baxter Smith]

Very intersting/striking effect with the dye and that piece of wood. Good luck with the repair/fix.

[David E Keller]

Beautiful work, John! Good luck with the fixer.

[Michael James]

Very nice piece there and very fixable. A clewes clinic is on my to do list after spending a day with him at a demo. Thanks for posting.
mj

[Dirk Hoogendoorn]

Jimmy also finishes his pieces with Turtle wax, that would help protect it from light I would think

[Jim Burr]

I've fixed this on flatwork junk before...wet sand with 1200 and keep it wet and level. Should work out fine.