Krenovian Jointer in Beech and E.I. Rosewood

[Trevor Walsh]

Here are some pictures of my latest tool making project, a beech jointer. This was developed as a cure to the ogling I suffered from after extensive reading of the Inside Passage school's website. I have another iron, which may become a coopering plane or a small smoother. I'm not sure which, please make your vote...

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[Brian Kent]

Do you make buckets and barrels? I made what I guess is a coopering plane for some inside curves on a Maloof style pedestal table. I see just a few uses for a coopering plane. Answer my question and I'll vote!

[Jim Belair]

A coopered door on a small cabinet is also very nice. It was coincidentally at Inside Passage (school referred to by Trevor) that I first made one, but in my shop I don't have a coopering plane. I've wanted to make one ever since but would I'd like to see how to work out the mouth opening on the curved sole. Small smoother builds can be found everywhere.

Jim B

http://www.insidepassage.ca/programs.htm

[Trevor Walsh]

Brian, I don't do any whiteware (coopered buckets, churns etc.) yet (maybe ever), but as Jim mentions they are used for coopered doors and other similar components. Those I do see myself making in the near future. I really like the scale of work in the Krenov style, I've been fiddling with the jointer more and like the way it handles. Not sure that it would ever replace the #7 on larger components, but it is sweet and leaves a nice surface.

Jim, on LumberJocks there is an excellent two part tutorial by "Mafe" on making a Krenov convex plane, I was mulling it over for weeks about fitting a throat. I've patched a throat or two before and it's not something I really enjoy, it's a pain. However he shows a great method of drafting the orthographic views to generate the proper throat shape. It's so simple, a no brainer. I almost feel bad about borrowing his technique and tutorializing it again.

[Brian Kent]

Then I vote for a Coppering Plane. I googled Copper Plane and came up with a photo of a Mini Cooper with wings.

Here is my Coopering Plane, though I didn't know it was called that. I made a small Krenov style smoother, took out the blade, belt sanded the curve, inserted and marked the blade, then ground the blade to the line.


PS. That's post number 3,000. Send me the 3K Gift Bag!

[Trevor Walsh]

I got to put it through it's paces today here's some images of edge jointing and surfacing...

[Jon van der Linden]

I find radiused planes essential. While flat is often good, some cabinets and other things benefit from a slightly convex surface, and then you really need a radiused plane for the inside curve.

If you make a throat insert then of course the mouth of the radiused plane becomes easy.

The other way to do it is to put the plane together so that the mouth will be slightly closed and then open it up by working parallel to the blade, much like on a japanese plane.

Of course the smoother vs cooper plane question really depends on what you already have... you will use a smoother for the opposite side of the coopering!!!

[Terry Beadle]

Nice plane !

The photo's show it works well too. Therefore this qualifies for a gloat and the soon to be issued suckage medalion. !

I was wondering why you haven't put some finger grab areas on the body or rounded the back end more as Krenov was wont to do?

Thanks for posting as home made planes are the most beautiful woodies !

[Pam Niedermayer]

...The other way to do it is to put the plane together so that the mouth will be slightly closed and then open it up by working parallel to the blade, much like on a japanese plane....

Huh? Or, what the ____?

Pam

[Jon van der Linden]

Huh? Or, what the ____?

Pam

Maybe parallel to the bed would be clearer... I thought it would be obvious.

[Trevor Walsh]

Pam, he means rather than figuring the geometry of the mouth and cutting in beforehand; glue the body up with the mouth very nearly shut and enlarge it to the size opening you require (and shape considering the coopering plane blade/sole radii) the mouths on Japanese planes are carved this way, well and old woodies I suppose too.

Terry, I kept of plane and square like that for two reasons. Firstly, all the images I came across for planes like this on the Inside Passage site are square. I wanted to copy the ones that I saw. Secondly, the less shaping means more surface area to contact the bench when used on it's side, and since I will use it ambidextrously, on both sides it needs to be square.

[Mike Allen1010]

Trevor,

Beautiful plane! I bet it's even more fun to use that was to build! Congratulations on building a beautiful, accurate tool you can use a regular basis -- nice job!

Regards, Mike Allen

[Pam Niedermayer]

Pam, he means rather than figuring the geometry of the mouth and cutting in beforehand; glue the body up with the mouth very nearly shut and enlarge it to the size opening you require (and shape considering the coopering plane blade/sole radii) the mouths on Japanese planes are carved this way, well and old woodies I suppose too. ...

But I don't know why you and John think Japanese planes are made this way. It would be a very dangerous process as the sole is cut from the top, lots of opportunity for splintering.

Trevor, very nice looking plane.

Pam

[Jon van der Linden]

But I don't know why you and John think Japanese planes are made this way. It would be a very dangerous process as the sole is cut from the top, lots of opportunity for splintering.

Trevor, very nice looking plane.

Pam

Why would you cut it from the top in this case? Seems contrary to any sound practice.

I never said anything about the Japanese process for making a plane, just the geometry. Let's be clear, we're not talking about a Japanese plane, but a Krenov style plane, specifically one for coopered panels. The mouth is already there on glue up, it's only a question of opening it to the desired size.

[Pam Niedermayer]

Why would you cut it from the top in this case? Seems contrary to any sound practice.

I never said anything about the Japanese process for making a plane, just the geometry. Let's be clear, we're not talking about a Japanese plane, but a Krenov style plane, specifically one for coopered panels. The mouth is already there on glue up, it's only a question of opening it to the desired size.

Hey, let's be clear, you are the one who first mentioned the way Japanese planes are made. I simply tried to point out that they aren't. And then Trevor joined in, seemingly endorsing your perception. This was why I thought it valuable to point out. I don't much care about Krenov planes one way or the other.

Pam

[Jon van der Linden]

Hey, let's be clear, you are the one who first mentioned the way Japanese planes are made. I simply tried to point out that they aren't. And then Trevor joined in, seemingly endorsing your perception. This was why I thought it valuable to point out. I don't much care about Krenov planes one way or the other.

Pam

You're right in only one thing... which is that I haven't been 100% accurate in my description, which should be obvious to anyone. It was a quick short post meant to give the basis of an idea, not a step by step how to.

Since you jumped in here, why don't you tell us something other than just continually saying that I'm wrong? This has come up in other threads before, you seem to enjoy saying that people are incorrect but contribute absolutely nothing yourself nor do you back up your statements.

[Trevor Walsh]

I'm advocating that the methods for shaping the mouth can be done one of two ways that I know of, it's not about Japanese planes at all. Let's not derail this thread by turning into a japanese plane making technique discussion okay?

[Pam Niedermayer]

I'm advocating that the methods for shaping the mouth can be done one of two ways that I know of, it's not about Japanese planes at all. Let's not derail this thread by turning into a japanese plane making technique discussion okay?

Thank you, Trevor.

Pam

[Trevor Walsh]

Well the results are in, 12 for the coopering plane and 22 for the small smoother. Seeing as it's such a close race I think I'll just go ahead and to both, starting with the smoother ;)

[george wilson]

I do believe that a plane that size would benefit much from having a handle on it. Otherwise my(at least) old fingers would soon get very tired of trying to squeeze the body tightly enough to use the plane.

[Trevor Walsh]

I use it fairly finely set, and the blade isn't all that wide (1 1/4) so it's not as difficult (for me at least) as it might first seem. I think if it were much wider I would certainly need a tote on that.

[george wilson]

I failed to realize that it is so narrow.