Parallelogram table jointers!

[Juan Rivera]

I'm in the process of purchasing my first jointer. I'm interested in an 8" jointer or larger (if the price is right) but there's a couple of designs that exists that have some advantages over each other. The parallelogram table design seems to have an advantage over the conventional but is it worth the extra dollars $$$? Any suggestions on Delta DJ-20 vs the Powermatic 8" parallelogram table jointer? And on the conventional design the Grizzly 8" vs Bridgewood 8".

Thanks

[Steve Cox]

I think they are all parallelogram, otherwise they wouldn't work. If by parallelogram you mean that the two tables stay in the same parallel plane while they move up and down, that is what they all do. A lot of what you see is just marketing. The jointer is really a simple machine. What you want to look for is width of cutterhead (8" is a good start), length of tables (longer is better), length of fence (ditto), height of fence since that is what you register against when you edge joint, and then the ergonomics of controls (wheels versus levers, location of switch etc.) Lots of people like the DJ-20 but for the money I think the four knife grizzly is probably the best bang for the buck.

[Mark Singer]

I thought the parallelogram design was on the DJ 20...I have that model and I am very satisfied. Withe the long infeed table you can joint a long board by yourself. I do 12 footers often and with great results. Very reliable and once set up stays that way. The levers are better than hand wheels,,,I have had both.

[JayStPeter]

My personal opinion is that the parallelogram jointers are a better design. However, the job and function of a jointer is rather simple. The other design has been getting the job done well for many years.
The Bridgewood and Grizzly (as well as Jet, Sunhill, GI ...) are the same GeeTech castings. The differences are motors, switches, stands, 3 vs. 4 knife cutterheads, and table extensions. Personally, I hate changing knives. So, I'd stay away from a 4 knife. The spiral head version from Grizzly would be my first choice, followed by the jointer I own (as it is the cheapest of the GeeTechs), the G1018. I do like the motor/switch on the Bridgewood though.

Jay

[Jim Becker]

The parallelogram design keeps the edge of the tables exactly the same distance from the cutter head no matter what the depth setting. That gap changes on the designs that slide on ways for adjustment. It's technically superior (and I'm glad I have it on my MM FS350), but many folks will not notice it that much because we tend to keep the machine set to the same depth all the time...and it's in the 1/32" to 1/16" range most of the time. Minimal gap there...

[Steve Cox]

Jim,

Thanks for clearing up the parallelogram design (for me at least). I was thinking of the way in which the tables moved in relation to each other. I don't think it would make much difference to me but to each his own.

[Bruce Gray]

You asked about the DJ-20 vs the new Powermatic .... I own a DJ-20, and it's a great machine, but that doesn't mean it's without some weak spots. The Powermatic design, in addition to just being heavier, took direct aim at the limitations of the DJ-20. One feature in particular is the means of fence-tilt adjustment. On my DJ-20, the fence gets out of 90 degrees far too easily, and it's a nuisance to get it back perfectly. The Powermatic has a micro-adjust on the angle, which looks very nice.

Bruce

[mike lucas]

The new 8" from Powermatic seams to be a very nice jointer. And it is priced very close to the Delta 8", while having 6" longer table size, which makes a huge difference in the abillity to plane or joint longer boards.

My choices come down to the 10" Oliver for about $2,000 and the 8" Powermatic for $1,500. For the money, there are no others to look at!

[Juan Rivera]

Thanks for the quick responses. Any idea what motor manufacturer powermatic uses?

Thanks!