Prepping a red oak burl

[Jake Helmboldt]

I scored a couple big 2' diameter red oak burls today and need to prep them to keep them until I can turn them.

One is a 2' diameter burl cap that is pretty symetrical and about 6-8" deep at the center (w/ bark on). Most of the bark is still on except along some of the edges.

The other is a large, somewhat irregular burl (one guy in the neighborhood called it the "butt tree" because it consists of two burls growing together). Close to 3' in diameter with some of the edges cut off, exposing additional grain, and some of the end grain of the trunk is included.

Should I coat the long grain with anchorseal or doesn't that matter? I assume the end grain on the bigger one needs to be coated. Any other tips to make sure I don't lose these two monsters?

[David E Keller]

I'd paint all cut surfaces twice with anchorseal... Assuming that the burls which don't appear in any attached photos are in fact real!

[Jake Helmboldt]

Man, I knew I'd get some heckling over the lack of photos, but jeez, with the first response? No mercy!

Wrestling that thing into the back of the truck wore me out. I'll be sure prove that the easter bunny was good to me today once I've recovered (and finish the chicken coop).

[John Keeton]

Jake, we would love to see pics of these burls - they sound awesome. I think David has the right answer - lots of Anchorseal.

[Donny Lawson]

I just got a few large oak burls about a week or so ago and I added 2 thick coats of anchorseal on them. I've got them in the shop awaiting its time on the lathe. Anchorseal will do the trick.

[David E Keller]

Man, I knew I'd get some heckling over the lack of photos, but jeez, with the first response? No mercy!

Wrestling that thing into the back of the truck wore me out. I'll be sure prove that the easter bunny was good to me today once I've recovered (and finish the chicken coop).

No mercy is right!:D

[Jake Helmboldt]

OK, proof it really did happen, and salvaged from an ancient urban street tree that had been removed due to dying no less. I slathered on the Anchorseal on every exposed piece of wood and hopefully I won't lose anything to checking.

192823

[David E Keller]

Good grief! Those things are grotesque looking... I think I'm in love! Where exactly did you say that picture was taken?

[Jack Mincey]

Jake,
I've keep red oak burl a long time by coating the cut surface with anchorseal and keeping it in the shade and covered with a tarp. It molds some but doesn't check much.
Good Luck,
Jack Mincey

[Jake Helmboldt]

Good grief! Those things are grotesque looking... I think I'm in love! Where exactly did you say that picture was taken?

Like I said, it was called the "butt tree". Some butts are better looking than others.

On another note, how much does red oak typically move? I plan to cut that smaller cap into two pieces and rough turn them for a large platter/wall hanging and the "smaller" for a shallow bowl. I'm wondering how much thickness to leave (since 10% of the diameter would result in a very thick roughout).

[Jack Mincey]

It depends on the grain structure of the burl. If it is all consistent eye burl it won't move a great deal, but will wrinkle up more than one would think possible. If the grain vary from spot to spot in the blank it will move a lot. You will also get some small checks around the burl eyes as it dries. I sometimes fill it with sanding dust and CA and other times I will wet sand the piece using Danish Oil to wet it and this fills the small checks well to.
Jack