unknown 12" jointer what do you guys think?

[keith micinski]

This is about a two hour or two and a half hour drive for me. It looks promising and I am not afraid of babbit bearings. If they eventually need re-poured I wouldn't mind trying it and I also wouldn't mind trying to convert it either. I think it having the round head is a plus from what I have read. does anyone have any guesses on what model that is. I am going to head over to OWWM to see if I can learn anything.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/tls/2342649457.html

[keith micinski]

IT sucks because I can almost see a name on the blade gaurd. It says something "...ol works."

[keith micinski]

It looks like there are grease fittings on the bearings but I have always heard you never use grease and your supposed to use oil.

[David Kumm]

Just make sure it is not a clamshell head. It is a patternmakers jointer with the springjoint adjustment on the outfeed side. Very similar in design to the Northfield Moak or Yates. I think the same castings went into different brands back then. The video guy was taking pretty light passes so check out the power although you may want to change out the motor. Looks like a 7ft bed. the tables look pretty good. Three toed jointers were very good machines and the ways have lots of adjustments. Setting up a patternmakers is tricky but you will learn alot. A two knife is better on a belt drive because you can run the head faster than a DD and compensate somewhat for the lack of knives. Dave

[keith micinski]

I guess I thought a clamshell head referred to the square heads. I guess ill have to do some research on that. I have some questions in on the motor power and brand.

[Phillip Pardue]

That is either a Sidney or a Porter jointer from the best I can tell. It is a bit older than mine (http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=12253) but I am betting it says "Sidney Tool Works"

[Chip Lindley]

A guy won't find a 12" jointer much cheaper in ready-to-work condition! A 2-knife babbitt cutterhead will run at only 3000-ish rpm. The cut will be a little slow at that rate. That is the biggest minus I see. Otherwise, it's one heavy-duty jointer!

[David Kumm]

Not porter, maybe clement or L power. American became yates and looks similar except for guard. If babbit can only run to 3000 rpm that explains why the knives sounded slow in the video. Jointers aren't final finish but you would have to go slow. Let us know the answer. Dave

[Larry Edgerton]

Its not a Porter, the Porters had 4 bolts holding down the bearing castings on the babbit machines. I swear the main castings look the same though. There is a swivel foot missing on the single leg, but that is normal as they broke easily. To make it level you will have to slide a piece about 3/4" under that leg. How is the motor mounted?

It is a nice looking machine. I had a Porter 12" until recently. Not to make you feel bad, but I gave mine away.......

Larry

[keith micinski]

The owner says that they have had it for 8 years and have only used a few times off and on. There are grease fittings where the oil cups are supposed to go so I think I am going to stay away from it since it has been at least 8 years since the bearings were oiled. The owner said it has a 3 horse power dayton motor on it and he said he cant find any markings on it but has been told it is a Yates. I want to know what the guard says on it but I think I am going to pass because of the bearings. Maybe if the price comes down I'll reconsider though.

[Charles McKinley]

Are you sure that is a Zerk (grease) Fitting? The pic it too blurry to tell but my Cresent has a spring mounted ball that you push down with the tip of the oil can that looks similar to that. If you were rabbiting on the jointer there would not be clearence for an oil cup.

[Bobby Knourek]

The guard says WOODWORKERS TOOL WORKS, these guards are now back in production and in stock.
and should be the mod.#66E.

For a limited time you can buy the castings in kit form at woodworkerstoolworks.

[Jeff Duncan]

There are grease fittings where the oil cups are supposed to go so I think I am going to stay away from it since it has been at least 8 years since the bearings were oiled.

If the bearings are in good shape then it probably doesn't matter what they did to them. If it spins nicely and there's no play you just have to clean them up a bit and off you go. You can fairly cheaply and easily pop those zirks out and put oil cups on. At worst case scenario you may have to re pour the Babbitt, but you said you wouldn't mind trying that anyway. Personally I never saw the point in replacing babbitt with roller bearings. Babbitts maintained correctly will last a lifetime or more.

That's a great machine and for a pretty reasonable price....someone will do well with it.

good luck,
Jeffd