A handle for the HOG - a short tutorial.

[John Keeton]

I recently acquired a 5/8" V gouge from Doug Thompson to go with my other fine Thompson tools. Doing my first tool handle a year or so ago was a challenge. Rob Culver is getting ready to do some handles, and perhaps there are others doing this for the first time that might benefit from a short tutorial on turning a handle - or, at least how I do it.

For this one, I am going to add a little weight to the butt, and provide a bit of dead blow with somelead shot.

I start with a laminated blank of curly maple with a 1/4" middle lamination of walnut in themiddle. Most all of my handles are this combination or the reverse. Rough the blank round and cut a tenon on one end for the chuck.
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The Jeff Nicol steadyrest is set up with the tailstock in place to keep the center.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192579&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303592738 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192579&d=1303592738)

Drill the hole for the lead shot first using the Jacob's chuck with a 7/8" forstner bit. I was only able to go 2.75", but deeper would be better if you have longer bits.

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And, the hole is finished.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192596&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303592752 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192596&d=1303597098)

I had previously turned a plug for the butt end with a 7/8" tenon for the hole, and a tenon on the other end with a center mark. The chamfered edge is not relevant. This walnut scrap already had the chamfer.
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Add shot to the handle, leaving just a little space for the dead blow effect.
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Glue in the plug with Titebond, and true up on the lathe using the center mark on the tenon for the tailstock.
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Flip the blank end for end, and chuck on the walnut plug to permit drilling the hole for the gouge.

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[John Keeton]

Using the same process and a 5/8" bit for the gouge, drill a hole just a little deeper than the tang on the gouge.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192626&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303596135 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192626&d=1303602089)
With the tailstock in place in the 5/8" hole, mark the blank for the ferrule. I use a section of hard copper pipe cut from a longer piece with a tubing cutter. The inside edge must be cleaned up with a chainsaw file so it will slip over the tenon.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192629&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303596142 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192629&d=1303602097)
Cut the tenon leaving a smaller area next to the shoulder. This will make seating the ferrule solid against the shoulder much easier.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192630&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303596140 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192630&d=1303602100)
Using a scrap of wood and a hammer, install the ferrule with a friction fit. Use the remaining section of copper pipe to seat the ferrule against the shoulder, leaving just a little wood proud of the ferrule.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192632&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303596151 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192632&d=1303602105)
Now we are ready for the quick and fun part!!
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Round over the front face,and establish a depth for the area of minimum thickness where your hand will be for most usage. The location and thickness will vary depending on your habits and comfort.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192627&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303596137 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192627&d=1303602092)
The handle is shaped using your tool of choice - in my case a spindle roughing gouge. I like this shape as it permits the forward pressure of a cut from letting my hand move up the handle. Use whatever profile is most comfortable for you.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192631&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303596148 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192631&d=1303602102)
Just for embellishment, I will burn a couple of grooves in either end, so using the parting tool on its side (or skew or whatever edge you have handy) mark the locations of the grooves. Sand to 150 first, but burn the grooves before sanding further.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192625&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303596132 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192625&d=1303602087)

[John Keeton]

Using a small wound guitar string (G string), I burn the grooves. Then sand to 320.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192622&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303597422 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192622&d=1303601879)
Make a parting cut on the butt end, and using a spindle gouge taper the end. Depending on the tool storage method you use,you may prefer another profile on the end.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192617&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303597414 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192617&d=1303601867)
Apply a good coat of BLO with a piece of paper shop towel, and spin the handle at high speed to create some heat. Then, using the same piece of towel, apply shellac at about 1,000 rpms. The BLO will lubricate the shellac application and keep it from getting grabby. You will immediately end up witha burnished, dry finish. Use 0000 to buff the first coat, spinning at about 500 rpms. Then repeat with a second coat. I use wood chips to burnish the second coat.

The handle is done!
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192623&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303597412 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192623&d=1303601882)
Part off the butt end (loosen the tailstock pressure, and support the handle with one hand.) I use a sanding disk in the Jacob's chuck on the lathe to sand the butt to get rid of tool marks. Then hand sand to 320, and using the still wet shellac rag, apply some shellac.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192621&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303597427 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192621&d=1303601877)
Using a Bessey clamp and a scrap block of wood, press fit the gouge in the handle. No glue needed.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192618&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303597419 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192618&d=1303601869)
The HOG is done!!
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192620&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303597429 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192620&d=1303601875)

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192624&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1303597424 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=192624&d=1303601885)

Now, I can get to work on that big ol' cherry burl that Baxter sent me!!

[Dwight McNutt]

John, the first post the pictures came up fine, the second and third post all I get are red x's. Would like to see the whole process.

Thanks Bruce

[Greg Just]

I can't see the 2nd and 3rd set of pics either.

[Roger Chandler]

No pics on the second or third post for me as well!

[John Keeton]

Fixing this is difficult, as the pics show for me as moderator. I can't tell if I have them in the posts or not. Are they showing for you guys now?

[Roger Chandler]

John,

for me, they all are there now! Very nice handle and a useful tutorial. thanks for sharing with fellow creekers!

[David E Keller]

Nicely done, John. The photos in the second and third posts are not within the text, but they're visible... Except for the picture of your G-string which I'm happy didn't make it!

[Roger Chandler]

John. The photos .. ... Except for the picture of your G-string which I'm happy didn't make it!

Whew! :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::D:D:D:p:p:p

[Baxter Smith]

They are there, but all it the end of each post for the second and third. Nice looking handle. What was the largest diameter and the length you ended up with. I have only used the handles that came on the tools I have. They don't look nearly as long as a lot of the ones I see people using now. Knew I was saving those 4's and 6's for something.;)

[John Keeton]

I wanted to include the G-string pic, but Ms. Keeton wouldn't allow it!!:eek::D

Glad the pics are there. I may try to edit it again and disperse them in the posts. Baxter, the handle is about 1 5/8" in diameter at the front, and 16.5" long.

[Baxter Smith]

Thanks John, and thank Ms. Keeton too!

[John Hart]

Nice tutorial. I'll try it out with my DT and all the other half-done tools I have laying around. I just gotta figure out where my g-string is. Can I borrow yours?.....Or Mrs. Keaton's?

[John Keeton]

Hart, I don't loan tools nor my G-string!!;):D Speaking of tutorials, I need to get you to show me a quick way to imbed the pics in the text. Have to say that feature of the new V-bulletin is not my favorite! The pic upload on the old system was much simpler.

[John Hart]

Yeah..this new version is a bit different. But after figuring out all the nuances, I think it might actually be more convenient than the old version.

I start out my thread by uploading my first set of images (which puts them all in a lower box which each one checkmarked). I remove the checkmarks and then go type some stuff, then when I want to embed a pic, I hit Manage attachments, checkmark the one I want, then hit Insert Inline.

Then I type more stuff until I need the next pic.

Unless you're having a different problem?

[Robert Culver]

John this is great and very helpful thanks for all your work on this. Your very generous with all your time and information its people like you that make this forum so great. Now a little more practice and i can get to work on the handles that I need to make Thanks again for the laminated stock your very kind and thoughful. Seeing this done step by step really helps me in planing how to take this from start to finish :) I will post some photos when I get mine finished out!!!!

[Lori Kleinberg]

Very nice tutorial, John. Thank you for sharing.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Very nice tutorial John! Your photos and explanations of each step sure makes it sound easy! That is a nice looking handle! You'll have to let us know how well you like the 5/8" V.... I think you'll see why it is my go-to tool!

Another way to do photos: enter all your text and then when ready for photos - click on the paper clip (manage attachments). It will open a window allowing you to upload photos. When done uploading - close the window - do not place inline. Now, find where in your text you want to place a photo and click there so that the cursor acts as a placeholder. Then click on the paper clip again - this time choose the photo that you want and click on it. The photo will be placed wherever the cursor was located.

[Roy Turbett]

John - Very nice looking handle. I just turned eight of them for some unhandled tools I bought and use a slightly different method that doesn't require a steady rest. I start by drilling a 3/8" hole about a half inch deep in one end of the blank while it is still square. Then I mount it in the lathe with my 60 degree live center in the hole. I round out the stock and turn a tenon for the ferrule and install it. I then turn the tool handle and leave a tenon on the headstock side so I can mount it in my chuck. Once mounted, I drill out the rest of the hole on the lathe and cut the waste off at the band saw. I only sand my handles to 150 grit because I get a better grip.

Roy

[Bernie Weishapl]

Nice tutorial John. Thanks for sharing.

[Tim Thiebaut]

John this was a great tutorial, thank you for posting this. I really like the idea os weighting the handle with lead shot, I will have to try that next time I turn a larger handle like that.

[Mike Cruz]

John, I love the handle. You got me thinking... Each handle OUGHT to be different. That way, when you want a particular tool, you'll remember them by handle. It could be as simple as the thin strip in the middle being representative of the gouge width, and for other types of tools within the same family, using different combinations. For example, all bowl gouges would be walnut sandwiched by maple. Skews could be maple sandwiched by cherry. Spindle gouges might all be ash with different color or sized end caps for each size. Etc... Again, you just got me thinking...

[Dan Forman]

John---Nice handle and tutorial. My first projects were handles for my Thompsons.

Mike---I did mine all different, some solid, some lams, different wood combo's so that I could easily identify them from afar.

Dan

[Joe Mioux]

thanks for sharing this. The handle looks great.

[John Keeton]

Thanks, guys and thanks John and Steve for help on the photo situation. Just couldn't get it, but from what Steve said it is very similar to the old version IF one does not place them inline to begin with.

[Lee Koepke]

It was also a sneaky gloat on the Steady Rest too ...... I picked up on the subtle hint!!!!!

[John Keeton]

Lee, you are just too quick on those stealth gloats!;):D

[bob svoboda]

Thanks for a very nice tutorial John. Appreciate your taking the time to do this.

[Michelle Rich]

wow, that steady rest is a beauty..your handle quite handsome. I can't see all the post as it takes so long to downlaod with all the pics that it dies..but I saw enough to know. thanks for the tutorial