Need help removing tile

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Here's my problem, I need to add a short wall in my kitchen and have a ceramic tile floor. Normally I would just remove the tile where I need to attach the sill plate, but I don't have any extra tile. I need to cut out the pieces of tile under the sill without damaging the surrounding tile. I'm afraid I'll break the tile and end up having to mickey mouse something. Can I cut the tile with a grinder and abrasive wheel while its attached to the slab?

[bill kiss]

I have cut tile using a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a dry diamond blade (I bought the blade from harbor freight for less than $10) The diamond wheel will cut through the tile like soft butter. :) This is the first time I have had a chance to reply, I'm a home rehabber and have read and used lots of advise from SMC-- ALL OF IT GREAT --THANKS

[Roy Wall]

Dennis,

I imagine you could use the wheel to "score" the grout out first..........and then the desired "cut edge" on the tile. I think I'd try to get the grout loose first on the initial piece to allow "slack" so it wouldn't loosen other pieces - as a precautionary measure.


How about drilling 1" holes (just thru the tile) centered along the sill plate location....then screw the sill down in register with those holes?? Just an idea..

[Jim O'Dell]

I think I like Roy's idea, although Bill answered the question asked ;-). Since this is not a weight supporting wll, I think I'd put the sill plate on the tile and drill through the tile with a masonary bit, then switch over to a wood bit proerly sized for the lag bolt you will use. Still be careful drilling through the tile, you still don't want to crack it and be back to the problem you fear about doing this in the first place! Jim.

[Jim Bills]

Why not attach the short wall sill plate directly to the tile? I would think construction adhesive would hold it in place with no difficulty. When you add the base and shoe mldg everything would look fine. If you ever wanted to change the floor tile, you would just have the same problem in reverse. HD carries a small 4 1/2" wet saw if you really wanted to go that route, a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a diamond blade will product copious amounts of dust.

[James Carmichael]

Dennis,

I think a lot will depend on the quality of adhesive the tile was set with.

The grout can be cut easily with a Dremel or other rotary tool and a carbide grout removal bit ($10 at HD). If you've got 1/4" or larger grout lines, definitely get the 1/8" bit (the other's a 1/16"). I believe you said the tile is on the slab, so the bit shouldn't hurt the subfloor, it also doesn't damage the sides of ceramic floor tile, I've used it to clean right up against the tiles.

As for the tile, I've had good success removing floor tile with Harbor Freight's 3/4" SDS rotary hammer. I don't know if they still carry it, but the one I have has a hammer-only mode ($30 on sale when I bought it). Using a 1 1/2" SDS chisel and attacking at an obtuse angle right where the tile and subfloor meet and not much pressure, the vibrations break up the adhesive and the tile comes loose. Even 16" floor tiles lifted out intact. If you can find an SDS-hammer like this, you won't have to do the extra grout-removal step, just attack the center of the groutline at 90-degress to the floor, it should break up and fall away from the tile.

I've only done this on tiles laid with grey thinset, the cheap stuff. I've laid floor tile with HDs highest-grade white custom blend mortar and would guess it's about 4x as strong, so I don't know if this method would work on it.

[Robert Mayer]

I wouldnt use anything but a diamond blade.

[Scott Parks]

Ive cut tile with a dry diamond blade in my circular saw. Then pry up the tiles. For the most part, thinset mortar does not stick to wood very well, but I think you mentioned that it is on a slab? My preference would be to remove the tiles. But on the other hand, It would be very easy to drill holes and use concrete anchors and adhesive.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Thanks for the input guys.

James, I don't know about pulling the tiles up in one piece. I'd only have one shot at it and if it broke I'd be in deep with SWMBO. I think that's something I'd want to practice first.

Roy, I thought about drilling holes through the tile, but wondered about the tile breaking along the line where the holes were drilled. Since its a nonload bearing wall and won't have much pressure on the floor maybe that won't be a problem.

I'm leaning toward the grinder even though its messy. The wall is only really a stub about a foot long so I can make a framed opening between the kitchen and den.

Thanks,

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Here is another vote for leaving the tile alone. What I would do is to drill holes through the sill plate first, then drill through the tile with a small bit. After that use a larger and larger bit until the holes are the correct size. Before putting down the sill plate, put down the foam that they use under treated sill plates that go against concrete. This should provide some cusion against the tile breaking. As you said this is a non-load bearing wall, so you really don't need to anchor it down as much as keep it from moving side to side. So 3 lags should hold it just fine...

[Fred Chan]

I'm with Bill. Diamond blade in an angle grinder will take care of it in a jiffy. If you're unconvinced just grab a diamond blade and a piece of old tile and see how easy it is to cut. (Use a dust mask though.):)

[Randy Moore]

Dennis,

I would go with the diamond blade with the shop vac to suck up the dust, and there will be lots of saw dust (from the tile). The wall might not be load bearing but the wall have it's own weight on the tile and in time I think the tile would break.

Just MHO.

Randy

[James Stokes]

I have been a tilesetter for 20 years now, If it was me I would set the wall directly on the floor tile. Properly installed tile is as strong as the concrete under neath. It will not break from setting a wall on it. When a tile breaks generally it is because it is loose allready. When it does break it is by expansion, With grout tight against the tile and no hollow spots undeneath it is generally extremely hard to break.

[Jim O'Dell]

Dennis,
If this wall is only a foot long, make a box out of 2 X 4's, anchor that puppy tight to the attaching wall, and put some glue between it and the tile. It can't go anywhere unless a big dog or kids will be crashing into it at full throttle!! I'd even use a silicone based adhesive that would clean off the tile if the need ever presented itself. Jim.

[Chris Padilla]

I say move...get a new house...this is clearly painful to deal with!

;) :D

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Chris, I could go to a new house, but it'd be really expensive because I'd be moving by myself!

[Roy Wall]

Dennis,
If this wall is only a foot long, make a box out of 2 X 4's, anchor that puppy tight to the attaching wall, and put some glue between it and the tile. It can't go anywhere unless a big dog or kids will be crashing into it at full throttle!! I'd even use a silicone based adhesive that would clean off the tile if the need ever presented itself. Jim.
Agree with that if it is only a short stub wall. All you need is a 2 1/2" screw - Just a small 1/4" hole thru the tile - in register with a pilot hole for the wood screw - and its over since its attached to the adjoining wall only a foot away...