Neander Project complete - well, half of it - and a design question

[Matthew Dworman]

Hi Guys,
There were a few electrons burned, but really just the tablesaw for ripping - everything else was done by hand.
Here is the lower half which is now complete:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o52/mdworman/Cab1.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o52/mdworman/Cab2.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o52/mdworman/Cab3.jpg


All from air dried, locally cut cherry. As you can see in the pics, I tried to use QS for the rails and stiles - I think it came out nice. There was some very pretty figure. Brusso knife hinges. Getting an even reveal for the inset doors was tricky, but it came out great. For some reason, it doesn't look perfect in the photos, but it is http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowyes.gif
The finish is shelac and wax.
I french polished the top and the door exteriors. Large flat surfaces are pretty easy, but french polishing the rails and stiles was a real pain.
Here is a sketchup drawing of what the completed piece will look like:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o52/mdworman/BookCaseRough3.jpg

and here is my question:

What would you guys do for the back?
If I knew how to set u a poll, I would do that -



1: Raised Panels
2: Plywood Panels
3: Ship Lap boards
4: Tongue and grooved boards
5: T&G Beaded boards?


Any other suggestions? It needs to be both stable, and attractive. Yes I know that attractive is in the eye of the beholder, but based on the style that I have already done so far...

Thanks in advance,
Matt

[mickey cassiba]

No vote here...I'm a neophyte neander(really a pe-neophyte). I had to comment on the post though...that is absolutely gorgeous, heck, I cannot do that under power yet. By hand, is many, many years away.

[Matt Evans]

1: Raised Panels

Simple, effective, and will match the doors on the bottom cabinet.

I do like the cherry. And, I am curious how you did the middle foot. . .

Any chance of pulling further back for the picture, then cropping it? Will change the lens curvature to near 0, and the pics will look much better.

[Patrick Tipton]

I am assuming you are going to put shelves in the top unit. The shelves will break up the top unit into much smaller sections. As a result, I don't think raised panels will work unless you were to size the panels to fit within set shelves and orient them horizontally - and that might look strange. Otherwise, I would use T&G or ship lapped boards without any added embellishment. The overall design of this piece is refined. I think beading is too casual. Personally, I don't like plywood so that would be out for me.

Nice work!

Regards, Patrick

[Casey Gooding]

I think the back of the top should match the doors to the bottom unit, just like in your sketch-up drawing.

[Ed Looney]

I vote for raised panels. I think it will tie the top to the bottom for design consistency.
By the way great job on the bottom half.

Ed

[Randall distefano]

Historically speaking, Raised panel would not be used inside the cabinet.A tongue and groove beaded back would add a classic period look to your cabinet.

[Deane Allinson]

Raised panels or T&G with beads would look best in my opinion. And I wouldn't use the flutes on the center stile. or the fretwork at the top. You have an exceptionally nice piece. Looks great. Draw in the shelves. It will help you make your decision. Very "clean" design. Well done!
Deane

[Ted Martens]

+1 on the T&G with bead. A period craftsman wouldn't go to the trouble to do raised panels for the back.
Great use of the figure in the panels, btw. Nice work all the way around!

[Jeff Wittrock]

Beautiful work!
I would vote T&G with or without the beads.

[Matthew Dworman]

Thanks for the comments so far.
I have one more design question:

Face Frame?
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o52/mdworman/BookCaseRough3FaceFrame.jpg


or no Face Frame?
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o52/mdworman/BookCaseRough3NoFaceFrame.jpg

[David Keller NC]

Matt - Face frame without any doubt. The "no face frame" option is a relatively recent development based on so-called "european hardware", and I associate it with kitchen cabinets, not fine furniture. The exception is mid-20th century scandanavian work, but I detest that style, so I'm prejudiced.

From the standpoint of the back, I would make frame & panels for it. The straightforward reason is one of strength, not necessarily style. With a F&P construction, you can glue and screw or nail the whole assembly to the top cabinet, making it considerably stronger than a shiplapped or T&G back. That's particularly the case if you're putting in adjustable height shelves, where it's not possible to nail or screw the back of the shelf into the backboards.

[Carl Beckett]

Hi Matt - I think the decision on the back design comes down to a philosophical one. If you are wanting to go towards the more 'traditional' construction, then I would vote for the T&G beaded. But as someone here pointed out, it might not be the best bet from a structural perspective.

I think panels (even flat panels) in the back could supply a little more structure. (I might make a flat panel back if it were my project, but then again I might just staple a full sheet of birch ply swiped with a minwax stain into an exposed rabbet..... :D )

Beautiful piece. Make the design based on what you want your design philosophy to be when you look back on it 20 years from now..... or 50 even...

[Deane Allinson]

Face frame. It will help balance the look. Lookin' good!
Deane

[Trevor Walsh]

I vote ship lap, possibly with a small chamfer, and the face frame.

[Matthew Dworman]

I am assuming you are going to put shelves in the top unit. The shelves will break up the top unit into much smaller sections. As a result, I don't think raised panels will work unless you were to size the panels to fit within set shelves and orient them horizontally - and that might look strange. Otherwise, I would use T&G or ship lapped boards without any added embellishment. The overall design of this piece is refined. I think beading is too casual. Personally, I don't like plywood so that would be out for me.

Nice work!

Regards, Patrick
I Hadn't thought about that...
I am going to be using glass shelves, so that might change things a bit...

[Matthew Dworman]

And I wouldn't use the flutes on the center stile. or the fretwork at the top. You have an exceptionally nice piece. Looks great. Draw in the shelves. It will help you make your decision. Very "clean" design. Well done!
Deane
Thanks Deane - The fluting and carving were early considerations for the piece, but I agree that it is better "Clean" - the concepts were just left in the drawing...