your favorite method/tricks for fencing on a slope

[Bob Riefer]

I have a stretch of lawn that I will be installing a privacy fence on. There's a gentle slope in this area, but total rise is probably about 3 feet from start to finish (about 50 foot run).

1)
So, I could just follow the land... but I think the fence panels will look "tipped". Similarly, I could attempt to rack the panels so that they'll follow the land, but there will be "step up" points between each panel. Both of these seem to be ugly solutions. But I guess I could cut the top level at the end with my circ saw?

2)
Or, I could try to make it so that a couple panels in a row are even at the top, step up, a few panels even, step up again.. etc. Again, ugly.

3)
Or, I could make them all even and level at the top and scribe/cut off the bottom of each panel to meet the ground. This leaves the panels at the high point 3 feet shorter in terms of "privacy" height than the panels at the low point. But I think it might look the neatest.

4)
Same as option 3, but just buy fence boards and tack them up one at a time instead of having to scribe and cut big cumbersome panels. Seems like this would be easier in terms of muscle power for a one man show like mine, but longer time taken.. and probably more costly (albeit may be able to get better materials with this method too).

So, how would you do it?

Also, any fencing tips that have made your life easier? Anything from post setting to gate placement, I'm all ears.

Thanks!!

[Bill Edwards(2)]

I am loathe to say this..... but:

5) Hire it done.:o

[Bruce Page]

You are using pre-fab panels? If you use individual fence boards nailed to the frame one at a time you will be able to follow the contour of the land exactly. That’s how I would build it.

[Bob Riefer]

Hey Bruce,
I haven't bought any panels (or supplies of any kind) yet. Option 4 above it the approach you suggest. Any tips for that method? Do you think my local sawmill would be a good resource for the fence boards? Or do I buy those at a fence supply place? Any other suggestions?

[David G Baker]

Option 4 will go faster than you think unless you are like me and insist that all the boards must be level across the top of the fence depending on the slope of the land. I used Redwood for my lumber but I lived in California where Redwood was readily available and a reasonable price at the time.

[Kent A Bathurst]

........total rise is probably about 3 feet from start to finish (about 50 foot run).

4).......just buy fence boards and tack them up one at a time instead of having to scribe and cut big cumbersome panels. Seems like this would be easier in terms of muscle power for a one man show like mine, but longer time taken..........

Door #4 without question. Guessing that there are likely some ups + downs in the slope, but still pretty much one continuous slope. Put the posts in. Figure out the elevation of the backer rails. Snap a chalk line from last post to first post along the line of the top rail - one, straight, line. Measure down, and do the same for the bottom + center rails. Then, do the same for the top of the posts. Circ saw the posts to height, and attach the rails.

Now - make yourself a simple jig. It hangs on the top backer rail, with an extending "arm", which is the elevation of the top of the pickets. [see pdf for one example] Hang the jig - first few you might even clamp it in place till you get on a roll. Set the first picket to the correct height. One nail or screw. Use a level to get it vertical. Nail/screw the rest of the picket. Now, just use the jig to get the correct height as you move down the line. Every few pickets, check with the level. The top of the fence will [pretty much] follow the slope of the land. Think through how you will hold the picket and the nail gun - this will tell you if you move right-to-left with the jig to the left of the picket, or the other way around.

Once you get in the swing of things, it doesn't really take all that much longer than panels - especially if you are using an air nail gun. Wrestling with those pre-made panels as a one-man operation is pretty tough to do. Plus, I just never liked the "stepped" look, and you won't be able to rack them.

Should be no need to trim anything with a circ saw - except the posts.

192325

[Bruce Page]

Hi Bob, sorry, I guess I didn’t read your whole post. I pictured tilted fence panels and said Yikes!:eek: I have built a few cedar fences and it is a pretty basic process. Once you have your posts set plumb and your horizontal support 2x4’s up the rest goes fairly quickly – quicker if you have a pro do it. ;)
All of the home supply stores around here have everything you need to build a cedar fence. YouTube has several videos on the process. The most important tool in the process is a decent level used often.

[Bob Riefer]

Nice, alright, I'm getting the picture. That jig is a good one, thanks for posting that Kent!

So, the bottom rail, I'm assuming I start at the high side as close to the ground as I can and run level to the other end of the run. And then measure up from that level rail for the middle and top. Do you agree? And then, I guess in the low areas where there's too large of a gap to the ground, I'll add an additional rail near the ground for fastening purposes.

Also, can I butt the fence boards, or should I space them slightly similar to building a deck?

Bruce wrote:

The most important tool in the process is a decent level used often.

Well acquainted with a level.. despite the lean my barn still has. :) (If I ever get to the point where naming my shop/work becomes necessary, I'm thinking "Crooked Barn Woodworking" is the name I'll choose! ha ha)

[Bruce Page]

I always set my bottom rail 8-10" above the ground.

[Frank Guerin]

I have in the past followed the slope of the land and in my misdirected opinion always looked like it was installed by a drunk that could not decide which way he wanted to list at a given moment. The last two I did I used the step method and it looked much better. Of course if the two opposite sides are extreamly different and close to each other then that will tellegraph for comparison.

[Kent A Bathurst]

That jig is a good one, thanks for posting that Kent!

Thnx. It is remotely conceivably that somewhere there is a jig-happy fella that gets a bit carried away, and might have gone so far as to [a] mount a destaco clamp on the jig to clamp it to the railing, and [b] attach an inexpensive 24" level to it as well. Seems like that might be getting carried away a bit, tho.


So, the bottom rail, I'm assuming I start at the high side as close to the ground as I can and run level to the other end of the run. And then measure up from that level rail for the middle and top. Do you agree? And then, I guess in the low areas where there's too large of a gap to the ground, I'll add an additional rail near the ground for fastening purposes.

Here's what I would do: first, a little arithmetic. I want the bottom end of the pickets to stop 2" - 3" above the ground. This keeps green stuff and moisture from being in permanent contact, which greatly increases their life.

Next, I usually leave 3" - 4" of picket below the bottom rail, and 3" - 4" above the top of the top rail. And, I want a rail in the middle [assuming you are going for 5' - 6' tall pickets - "privacy"]. Using these dimensions, make 3 marks on the two posts at the very end of the line - the down-hill-most, and the up-hill-most. These 3 marks are (a) the bottom of the top rail, (b) the top of the middle rail, and (c) the top of the bottom rail. Snap three chalk lines, using these three pairs of marks. These are the lines for the three rails. [If you put them as I described, you won't need a ladder to line up to the top, and you won't lay on the ground to line up the bottom :))

By using one straight line, this might mean that the pickets vary in height above the ground along the length of the fence, but I've never found that to be a problem. But - if that slope has a lot of up-and-down to it, ather than a smooth continuous rise, you have to do what you thin is best. If it is severe, then my choice would probably be to keep the top of the pickets in one straight inclined line, and keep the bottom of the pickets 2" - 3" off the ground by cutting them as needed - but I've never had to do that.


Also, can I butt the fence boards, or should I space them slightly similar to building a deck?

The gaps in the deck surface is to let the water drain off from a storm. If you have standing water covering the face of your fence boards, the last thing you should be worring about from your perch on the roof peak is the fence. Butt them together.

[Larry Edgerton]

When I am fencing on a slope I try to stay above my opponant. I find it much easier to pary and thrust from an elevated position. I also scrap the little fencing booties for a good pair of boots with Vibram soles.



Opps, not that kind of fencing........

Sorry, couldn't resist.

[Ryan Mooney]

Similar idea to Kents, but I wanted all the tops of the fence boards "in a line", and was on a horribly uneven slope (almost 5'/10' rise with lots of honkin big rocks) so I just did (mostly) the same for the posts/backer rails. For the uprights, for each section I did the following:
- stretch two ropes between each post (doesn't have to be super tight) one near the top, one near the middle
- slide the boards between the backer boards and the ropes upside down (check vertical with level)
- snap a chalk line along the level of where you want the top of the fence to be
- cut uprights on the cms along the chalk line
- set in place right side up and fasten
repeat for each section.

Worked like a champ for me anyway. You can also use the same idea to "step" the boards in sections, just stretch the chalk line over fewer boards and use a line level to make sure its "flat" then snap, move snap, cut whee!

[Greg Portland]

4) Same as option 3, but just buy fence boards and tack them up one at a time instead of having to scribe and cut big cumbersome panels. Seems like this would be easier in terms of muscle power for a one man show like mine, but longer time taken.. and probably more costly (albeit may be able to get better materials with this method too).
Option 4 will be cheapest and result in the best looking product. You'll be surprised how quickly the face boards go up (even using a hammer versus an air-nailer). I like to alternate boards on each side (slightly more open fence & uses less boards). Build yourself a little jig out of a 2x4 for spacing the face boards. Finally, be sure to spend plenty of time making the fence posts 'perfect'. This will save you a lot of time later (no need to trim down the stretchers, etc.).

[Chris Padilla]

Whatever you do, use screws, square drive, and properly coated so they don't stain anything over time. Good screws are worth their weight in gold so spend a little extra to get them.

[Harry Hagan]

Whatever you do, use screws, square drive, and properly coated so they don't stain anything over time. Good screws are worth their weight in gold so spend a little extra to get them.

I’ll be installing a cedar picket fence in the near future and can’t find hot dipped spiral nails that are short enough and realize that screws are a better choice anyway.

I’ve also decided to go with pickets from Lowes. They’re only 5/8" thick but 1/3 the price of 1" thick boards from the local fence companies. I’m justifying the thinner boards because they weigh less. 95% of the fencing will be either gates or sections that will swing open to allow truck access on either side of the house.

My Question: Two screws or three screws per board at each fastening point for a 5½" wide cedar board 5/8" thick?

[Greg Portland]

I've had no problems with using hot dipped roofing nails on the fence boards. Screws make sense for the rails (I use brackets for durability).

Regular galvanized will be eaten away when used with pressure treated lumber.

Now you're getting to the hardest part, finding decent gate hardware that will not rust out yet stand up to the chemicals in the pressure treated lumber. I have yet to find hardware that makes me 100% happy. However, I put in some 100% stainless on a -plastic- fence and was pleased with that solution. The stainless gets destroyed by the pressure treated. Maybe someone on the forums has a good solution?