How firmly to secure workbench top with tabletop fasteners?

[Matt Roberts PA]

I've made a bench similar to FWW's "Simple, Sturdy Workbench" (seen here: http://images.taunton.com/downloads/GSIW_workbench.pdf) which uses tabletop fasteners or S-Clips. My base is Kiln Dried Doug Fir and the top is 2-3/4" laminated maple top.

My questions is how tightly should I secure the top to the base. My original thinking was to only firmly tighten the clips at the front edge and leave the sides and rear only partially engaged and hand tight. The problem I'm having is the top slips a bit on the base now.

One thought I had was to secure the top to the front apron positively and only allow the sides and rear to float.

Heres the bench so far. Twin screw front and tail vises will come later.
192308

[James Scheffler]

I would just make them all tight, especially if you have a slippage problem. Aren't the s-clips designed to allow for seasonal wood movement?

Jim S.

[john brenton]

Have you thought about the "bullet dowels" like found on the Klausz bench? That might be a good idea to replace the clip method, or even in conjunction with the clips.

[Niels Cosman]

+1 on bullet dowels- they will take care of lateral forces- the weight of the top should keep it in place.
My 100 year old cabinetmakers bench just has two dowels in the middle of it's trestle base. works fine.
cheers,
Niels

[Matt Roberts PA]

Aren't the s-clips designed to allow for seasonal wood movement?
I figured if they were too tight they might inhibit movement. Maybe I'm underestimating the power of expanding wood.


Have you thought about the "bullet dowels" like found on the Klausz bench?
If I did this I would need to use only two on the same laminated piece to allow for movement, correct?

[Niels Cosman]

yes two in the length of the top- one in each of the short stretches.
-n
ps. never underestimate the power of wood movement :)

[Mike Siemsen]

I agree with the bullet dowels. I make my own large scale ones about an inch in diameter. I put the dowels in the front third of the cross stretcher as my top lines up with the legs on the front of the bench, this keeps them a bit closer to being flush through the seasons. It also aids me in putting the bench together the same way whenever I move it.
Mike

[Matt Roberts PA]

Anyone see any issue with putting them in the front legs only? I want the front of the top to stay flush with face of the legs.

[Johnny Kleso]

I spent a few hours making a mortice for 1/4"x2" x 6" strips of flat stock I drilled and screws to legs and bench top..

New Method> Buy some angle iron or aluminum at Home Depot and cut it into strips for each corner..
For my split top bench I long 24" stip at each end would level out the two slabs..

[Terry Beadle]

I used stove bolts with spring washers and slip washers on the nut ends. Four points with the two on the opposite side of the planing activity and tail vice, having a 1 1/4 slot hole. That way the bench was anchored on the planing edge ( where most work is done ) and the bolts on the expansion side allowed for wood movement and were not torqued too tight but firm. The planing side was max torqued of course. No movement or planing issues now after a decade. Rock maple top, pine 6 X 6 legs and cross members ( HD had a sale ! ). The top cross braces that anchor the top to the base is a hand cut slip joint dove tail with the cross member proud of the leg ends by 1/8th. Stove bolt heads are recessed into the top and lathed turned rock maple plugs applied. They pop out easily when you need to disassemble the table. The slip joint dove tail method is cheap ( sweat equity only ) and prevents any racking of the 6 X 6 members.