Gluing Loose tenons - which type of glue?

[alex grams]

I have some loose tenons I need to glue up. I will clamp and frame them so they are aligned, but i need at least 15-20 minutes working time to set up the tenons, and a strong glue that will hold well in loose tenons. I typically just use Titebond PVA glue in snug fits, but that won't work here, advice on which type of glue to use in this application? An epoxy? I have some pro-glue veneer bond resin I could mix up a thick batch of to use, but not sure if that would work.

link to resin at woodcraft site (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005350/10917/ProGlue-Resin-Veneer-Bond-6-Ounces.aspx)

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/146191_400.jpg

Thanks in advance.

[Ken Garlock]

Good day Alex. I am a fan of Tit-bond 3.

I don't know your application, but I would select a couple joints that I can glue up in 10 minutes and then dry fit the opposing joints as part of the clamping system. When you are happy with that glue joint, move on to the next one and a accompanying dry fit. When I have half of the joints glued up, then i would make a mad dash for gluing up the dry fit joints.

It might not work in your application, but it is an idea. Remember what you paid for it.

[Dave Gaul]

+ 1 on TB 3. I used it for floating tenons in a maple night stand I recently built, worked fine.

[alex grams]

I have TB 3, but pretty sure it is not made to fill small gaps between glueing surfaces. Of course, this isn't really a strength joint I am working on, it is a joint similar to a panel in a frame, not designed to carry any load.

[David Kumm]

I use west system epoxy and sometimes leave the mortises a little long to make any adjustment. The epoxy fills them structurally anyway. Plenty of set up time, a little messy. I usually mix with some fine sawdust for color, thickening, and strength. Dave

[alex grams]

thanks David, I have some of their epoxy I may try. I will mix with some sawdust to thicken up some I think. I would like a pretty viscous mix, as I am gluing up some pre-finished pieces and don't want any runoff.

[Bas Pluim]

DAP Weldwood, aka plastic resin glue (urea formaldehyde). No-stress glue ups, it has a long open time. Available at most Ace Hardware stores.

[Jacob Reverb]

thanks David, I have some of their epoxy I may try. I will mix with some sawdust to thicken up some I think. I would like a pretty viscous mix, as I am gluing up some pre-finished pieces and don't want any runoff.

If adhesion is important to you, don't neglect to wet out the joining surfaces with unthickened epoxy/hardener before adding filler to the mix...

[alex grams]

Jacob,
Adhesion is obviously important, but not to a load bearing level. Like I said before, it is similar to a panel in a frame style of joint.

[David Kumm]

Alex, I should have specified fairly fine sanding dust. If the sawdust is too rough it can interfere with the cope and stick fitting tightly. I also use their colloidial silica filler and a little dust for color if needed. I try to save some from my drum sander or bandsaw because it is easy to find. Dave

[alex grams]

David,
I have sawdust in my ROS dust collector that is ultra fine which I can use, thanks for the reminder though. Color is irrelevant to me in this application, so no big deal what wood the dust comes from.

[Steve Jenkins]

I'd second the plastic resin glue. Nice open time and cleans up easily with water before it's dry.