Can I make a scrub plane?

[brett gallmeyer]

I have a job at work that is requiring a light scalloped plane look. I was thinking a scrub plane would b perfect for this. I have several older stanleys that I wouldnt mind converting one. Can I do this? And how? Is there a certain # plane I should use? I tried searching the threads with no luck. Im sure this has been covered before.
Thanks, brett g

[Terry Beadle]

You can make a scrub out of a #5 or a #4. Most use a #5 and open the mouth. Be sure to put a significant camber on the blade. Like 1/8th inch recessed edges or so. Some like a woodie for this scrub plane work as it's lighter and won't wear you out as quick.

The amount of camber on the blade will dictate the scallops sizes. If you want a lite scalloped look, I would recommend using an old #3 with a 1 1/2 inch blade. Be aware a scrub plane is going to do a lot of tear out. If you are looking for a smooth scalloped look you may have to approach the issue with some thing other than a conventional scrub plane.

[Bill Houghton]

As to how much tearout you'll get - depends a lot on the wood involved. If you've got a sweet wood with fairly straight grain, tearout may not be significant. On the other hand, if it's curly maple, you'll get lots.

Lots of people have converted No. 3s, 4s, and 5s to scrub planes. I doubt you can camber the iron as dramatically as you can on a regular scrub plane, so whether this will work depends partly on how deep you want the scallops to be. You can make a wooden one, too; my article over on Wood Central on making a butt hinge mortise plane could easily be adapted to making a scrub plane: http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/handtools/articles_114.shtml

[Johnny Kleso]

A lot of people use a No.5 as they are as common as planes come but some love using as No.5 1/4 for the narrower blade.. You will have to file the mouth open if you want to take large cuts..

[john brenton]

Not sure if cambering the iron was a question, but cambering the blade is fairly easy, and I imagine it must go pretty quickly when using a thinner Stanley iron. I don't know what I was thinking, but I was having a brain fart when I did my first iron and was kind of approaching it kind of like doing a fingernail grind on a gouge. But of course, the way to do it is just set the tool rest and get to shaping. As long as you are using the tool rest and not lifting the iron off it will come out sweet and be an enjoyable grind session. That, followed by a trip up the grits leaves with a thing of beauty that hogs. I have never marked it out, or calculated the radius...I just do what looks right and have never had an issue.

[Matt Evans]

Brett, How large a piece, what species of wood, and does it need to be with or across the grain? Or are you looking for a random pattern?

[Mark Baldwin III]

You can get a scrub plane iron, and make a Krenov style plane in an evening. That way you're not filing open the mouth of a metal plane. Then again, a decent scrub iron will cost the same as a donor Stanley to convert to a scrub.

[Michael Peet]

Sure, I made one from a #3:

192344

Mike

[Matt Evans]

Brett, not sure what you need, but 5 minutes on a cruddy piece o maple shows what the tool marks look like cross grain with 3 gouges and a number 5 I have set up as a scrub.

I didn’t really try for any regularity, and used quick hard Mallet blows with the gouges, and fats "roughing" strokes with the plane.

Across the grain you will have a little tear out, but manageable, as long as the exiting edge is supported against blowout. With the grain you will have more tear out with gouges, and a scrub plane will leave less noticeable marks than cross grain.

Hope that helps.

[Zach England]

If you are concerned about tearout I think a curved-sole plane would be best.

[Jeff Bartley]

I made one out of a beat-up transitional plane. I had to true up the sole which served the double purpose of opening up the mouth a bit. When I first used it I waxed the sole and practically threw it across the shop!

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Brett

I'd suggest using a Round (from a H&R set). These planes have a tighter mouth, often bedded at York pitch (50 degrees), and you can choose the scallop size you want. Individual planes are available very cheaply from flea markets. Clean one up. I would avoid simply grinding a camber on a #4 (or whatever) as the large mouth is going to cause problems with tearout (as Zac also mentioned).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dave Lehnert]

I have an old Millers Falls (Craftsman)#5 hand plane that the adjusting wheel is rusted (Or what ever the problem is) and don't turn. Would this plane be a good candidate for a home made scrub? My guess I will not need to wheel on a scrub?????

FYI- I have tried EVERYTHING to get the wheel busted lose. Nothing works. Heat, WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil. All soaked for weeks. Going to guess it was glued or something. Purchased it used at a flea market so don't know the history.