It has been over a year since I last posted a pic

[Brian Brown]

I can't believe it has been that long. :eek: I have been doing a little turning (too little) but almost everything I turn is for a gift, and I seem to get it done just in time to give. It doesn't leave me time for pics. Usually the finish is still tacky when I give it. At least I got to shoot this one first. It is from a piece of curly eucalyptus I bought. I was trying for an Asian look. It is not finished yet, as I still need to lacquer the top, then buff. I am worried about buffing the top, as the handle is really thin and delicate. I think it may break. I have already broken one.
This is not my favorite piece I have turned, but I really like the wood. As always, a critique is requested. It is sanded to 800, soaked in Minwax tung oil finish, and the bottom is coated with lacquer. I would also appreciate any suggestions you have about how to keep the handle from breaking when it is buffed.

I am also adding a pic of the blank and the rough turned body.

[Baxter Smith]

Amazing what was hidden in that piece of wood! Nice looking shape as well.

[Tim Thiebaut]

Brian I think this is beautiful...I would certainly like to see more pics from you, this is very nicely done!

[Greg Just]

Welcome back Brian. Love the grain in that piece - it really popped with the finish.

[David E Keller]

This is a cool looking piece... Great wood and nice repetition of that wood in the top. If I were to change anything, I would consider playing with a more angular knob just to capture that Asian flare.

BTW, why did you only coat one part of the form with lacquer? I'm sure it's just the picture, but the 'oil only' portion looks richer to me. Before Hart gets all hostile, I'm not saying lacquer is bad.

[John Hart]

... Before Hart gets all hostile, I'm not saying lacquer is bad.

Nonsense....people often talk down about stuff that is good for them ;)

Nice to see you Brian....I love this piece. Maybe you can buff the handle with a dremel buffer thing

[Alan Trout]

Brian,

Very nice work.

Alan

[Bernie Weishapl]

Hey Brian nice to see ya back turning and posting. Wondered what happened. The piece is a beauty. I would buff it with a dremel as John mentioned.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Brian - great to see you posting your work again!

Beautiful wood! Love how it plays with the light! Is the knob glued or can it be separated? About the only way I think you could buff it is to wear gloves and make sure you fully support it during the process. Also - if possible, buff at a slower speed - something around 1000 rpm. It will get the job done - takes a little longer - but is not so destructive on thin turnings!

[BILL DONAHUE]

That's really beautiful. I especially like the top and I hope that you don't mind if I borrow the idea for something I'm finishing.

[Jon McElwain]

+1 on buffing with a dremel.

Beautiful piece by the way!!

[Brian Brown]

BTW, why did you only coat one part of the form with lacquer? I'm sure it's just the picture, but the 'oil only' portion looks richer to me. Before Hart gets all hostile, I'm not saying lacquer is bad.

I will be putting lacquer on the whole piece, but I just haven't had time to finish it. I think the lid looks richer because of the picture, There is less reflection when the surface is not as glossy.

[Brian Brown]

Maybe you can buff the handle with a dremel buffer thing

I like the Dremel idea. I have the buffing wheel made by Dremel, but it seems a little abrasive. Would I use the same tripoly compound I use with my Beall buffs? About how many RPM?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brian,

I really like this....the wood and it's curl is stunning....nice form....great contrasts between the woods..... the handle gives it a "delicate" feel and that I like.

As far as buffing it with the dremel..... if you have some scraps, finish them and test the buffing and different compounds on test piece. Just rough cut an end piece of hardwood and buff it to remove the previous compound before using some other compound. I would use a fairly slow speed if it was me.

[John Hart]

On the Dremel idea, I would forego the standard dremel buffing wheel and cut a bunch of itty bitty pieces of cloth, stack them up and screw them into the dremel arbor. That would soften the blow. Then keep the speed slow and test on a test piece as Ken suggests.

[John Keeton]

Brian, great little piece! Beautiful wood, and very neat idea on the handle/knob/finial. I look forward to seeing it finished, and don't stay gone so long!

[Roland Martin]

Very nice piece Brian. Lovely wood, form and an overall fine looking turning.

[Michelle Rich]

GO TEAM BROWN! gorgeous little HF Hope to see more of your & Tamara's work. Great stuff! (love the SFE)

[Chip Sutherland]

Nice Job. Nice piece. Stunning wood. Nice presentation. I really appreciate the blank to finish picture set. New folks should eat this up.

I think the 2nd hardest thing to do is visualize an end product to strive for when looking at a square chunck of wood. It took quite a while for me to learn to read wood blanks (especially premium figured wood) and then determine: this one is a HF/vase turned end-grain, this one is a bowl, this one is a box and this one I'm going to cut into 2 pieces (:eek:) and turn this on with growth rings oriented this-away; the cutoff will become 2-3 wine stoppers. I literally have boxes labeled 'Beautiful Wood'...that have not visualized the end product. Some pieces, I am just afraid to screw up.

The 1st/hardest thing to do is to produce what you visualize.

[Brian Brown]

[QUOTE=Chip Sutherland;1689121

I think the 2nd hardest thing to do is visualize an end product to strive for when looking at a square chunck of wood.

The 1st/hardest thing to do is to produce what you visualize.[/QUOTE]

Boy, I couldn't agree more on that!