Your technique/tool for removing bark from logs

[Jack Gaskins]

I usually use a claw hammer for removing bark from my log blanks but was thinking about buying a hatchet. Anyone have suggestions?

[Jim Burr]

Large spoke shave may work.

[David E Keller]

I don't turn a lot of logs, but I generally do it between centers on the lathe with a large bowl gouge or carbide tool.

[Harry Robinette]

Jack
If your removing all the bark I use a 1 1/2 " chisel and a home turned mallet.If your removing the bark on the back of the blank for the live center to set,then I saw the back off when cutting the blank using the chain saw.Also helps staking the blanks having two flat sides.
By the way 20 year's retired 1993 USAF

[Scott Hackler]

I am like Harry. I use a 1" chisel and a mallet.. Most of the time I cut the blank out with the chain saw, mount it on the lathe with a face plate and THEN remove the bark. I guess I figure its easier to hold with the spindle lock, while I peal the bark.

[Scott T Smith]

I am like Harry. I use a 1" chisel and a mallet.. Most of the time I cut the blank out with the chain saw, mount it on the lathe with a face plate and THEN remove the bark. I guess I figure its easier to hold with the spindle lock, while I peal the bark.

Jack, the traditional tool used by timber framers, log cabin builders, sawmillers, etc for removing bark is called a "Bark Spud". There are several different styles; the one that I use is over 100 years old.

Do a Google search on them - you'll find several different designs.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I also put mine on the lathe to remove the bark. If it is a half log I just use a big bowl gouge and if log form I use a carbide tool which removes it easy and quickly.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jack - I use a number of different methods - depending on circumstances.

If the bark is thin (Birch) and is firmly attached to the wood, then I turn it off. If it is thick (Maple) or starting to come loose, then I use a hatchet while still outside (my shop is in the basement) and if the wood was already in the shop waiting to be turned (winter storage), then I use a 1 1/2" chisel and mallet. Most times I try to remove the bark while outside because of the mess but there are a lot of times in the winter - you have to work indoors!

[curtis rosche]

it depends on how stuck on the bark is, i use a hammer and a cold chisel so i dont ruin my sharp woodworking chisels as there may be dirt or stone from felling the tree and transport.

[Nathan Hawkes]

I have a bark spud. Its a curved chisel with a long handle, used for getting under the bark and levering it off the wood surface. Do a web search; you should be able to find one fairly inexpensively. Mine has about a 24" handle or so, and is roughly 2" wide, give or take. I've never measured it. I'm fairly certain I paid less than $40 for it, but it was several years ago; I just can't remember.

[Jim Underwood]

Normally I'm trying to keep the bark on, not take it off. Centrifugal force normally takes it off...

And if I don't get to the wood soon enough the bark beetles usually get it most of the way off anyway. Then you can just peel it off with a screw driver.

But if it's green wood, and I'm turning a normal bowl, then I'll just turn it away.

[Rick Cicciarelli]

Mount in lathe, lock spindle, and use a drawknife....just did this today.

[Jon McElwain]

I have a large draw knife that I use when I feel the need to take the bark off prior to turning.

[Jack Gaskins]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Usually I also just turn it off but am getting tired of the bark hitting me so I have been removing the bark with a claw hammer but that doesn't work to efficiently so was looking for a hatchet of some sorts. I will look at Scotts suggestion and see what I can find.

[Richard Coers]

I bought a tool at Harbor Freight that looks like a mini jack hammer. I cut the point off the chisel so I have a 1" diameter steel bar hitting the bark. Works just like a hammer, but easier on me. It works really well on green burls and green wood. Direct hits break apart the cambium layers and the bark falls off. The only issue can be some bruising marks on the wood. So I go easy for natural edge stuff.

[Tim Rinehart]

Jack,
One other 'safe' suggestion...and I won't bring up the unsafe one....involves chainsaw...
I use one of two different flat prybars, one about the size of what beekeepers use http://www.organic-gardening-and-homesteading.com/beekeeping-starter-kit.html ...the other a bit bigger, like you'd use to remove molding around a floor. I can pound on these to get rid of stubborn bark too and not use or dull my chisels.

[Ryan Baker]

I use a hatchet. Maybe one of these days I will buy (or make) a bark spud, but I don't do enough volume to need one.

I used to just turn it off, but that dulls the tools too much and just takes a lot of extra time.

[Thomas Canfield]

I also use the cheap air chipping tool from Harbor Freight to remove bark. I am on my second one after the retaining spring broke on the first and I could not find a replacement retainer spring. The second unit was the "deluxe" with additional chipping tools/chisels and still cost less than $20. It makes quick work of removing bark and saves a lot of grinding on turning tools.

[Jack Gaskins]

I was looking around the internet and found something that might work good. It is called a Floor Chisel. 3 inch wide blade and 10-12" handle all one piece steel. Think I am going to Lowes tomorrow to see how much one cost. $15 on the internet.

[Bob Wolfe]

Hey Jack, It's more exciting to just turn it off. Wear a good face shield.

[Steve Kubien]

drawknife if on the lathe, chainsaw if off.

[Jack Gaskins]

Hey Jack, It's more exciting to just turn it off. Wear a good face shield.


Hello MSgt Wolfe. UHM NO. Tired of turning off bark. Was using a claw hammer but thought there was a more user friendly tool. Going to Lowes tomorrow to look at a Floor Chisel. Besides, gives me an excuse to buy another hand tool.