TS Outfeed Table - Miter Slots

[Steven Wahlert]

I've got my outfeed table built and now need to route miter slots.
I'm planning to make them a bit wider than the washers on the OEM miter gauge and a bit deeper than the slots on the saw table so as to not bind up the miter gauge or cross cut sled.
Any opinions on how much wider and deeper?

Regarding the length of the slots, I'm thinking to make them longer than needed for the OEM miter gauge to allow for a future double rail cross cut sled.
I'm thinking of 24 inch long slots. That plus the 7 inches from the rear of the blade to the rear of the saw top seems like it could work for up to a 30 inch sled.
Any advice on the sled size and the slot length?

Thanks!
Steve

[Bruce Page]

Steve, I made the slots on my table 1” wide X 16” deep, measured from the edge of the cast iron table. I’ll admit that I didn’t put a lot of thought into it, I just picked those numbers based on the run off of my Incra miter gage and my sled.

[Jerome Hanby]

I wonder if something like a keyhole slot where the slot was wider (also starting a little shallower and running a little deeper) that your miter gauge washer to avoid it binding and the upper portion the same size as the miter bar would work better. Maybe open up the slot a little on the end where the bar would enter. Seems like that would minimize any added play to the left or right.

I've been thinking about this a good bit lately. I've been thinking of using a machined miter slot track that matches my saw and making part of the left and right sides of the out-feed table "floating" so I could have adjustments to align the slots from the table to the ones on the saw.

[Bruce Page]

Jerome, by the time your runners are into the outfeed table slots you have already completed the cut. IMO, you would want sufficient clearance on the outfeed table slots because they do nothing to “guide” the runner, particularly when you throw in the variable of a folding table.

[Jim McFarland]

Slots on my Delta outfeed table extend ~12" from the TS edge -- giving me ~ 23" from center of the blade to edge of the slots. This works fine for my 24" X 30" sled (21"+ inside width). Slot widths are a bit over 1". No regrets on size of the sled or length of the slots in my case. Good luck!

[Steven Wahlert]

I would like to be able lift the miter gauge from the outfeed table slot.
So that precludes a tapered keyhole slot or t-slot where the miter gauge has to be backed out.

For me the out feed table slot is not needed as a guide, just clearance for the miter bar.

Bruce - Nice looking table.
I would have done something like that, but I had a cabinet carcass that I needed to do something with. I added a top and modified the carcass to function as a combo outfeed/assembly table with storage underneath.

Steve

[Prashun Patel]

On the 1st 2 outfeeds I made slots in the table. My current outfeed is about 1/2" lower than the saw top (a repurposed folding table), so the miter bar actually rides above the table. I thought this would be a problem and have not gotten around to raising the table, but to be honest it works just fine.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Thanks for the question and the information. I picked up a piece of 3/4" melamine coated particle board for an outfeed table, but haven't gone any further. I'm thankful for this thread as I was going to try to line up the slots and route them 3/4x3/8. That plan is now dead. I'm thinking I'll try 1/16" (min) deeper and 1/4" (1/8" each side) wider than the table..

[glenn bradley]

Mine are an inch wide and extend far enough to allow my deepest sled to complete a cut.

[Jerome Hanby]

Jerome, by the time your runners are into the outfeed table slots you have already completed the cut. IMO, you would want sufficient clearance on the outfeed table slots because they do nothing to “guide” the runner, particularly when you throw in the variable of a folding table.


That makes complete sense. Sometimes the quest for precision is plain folly. Pretty obvious that you just need a ditch fro the miter bar to run into.

[Steve Ryan]

No slots at all here. I used 3 pieces of melamine with about 1" between them. Any sawdust or chips just fall to the floor, nothing to jam things up.

[Myk Rian]

Take the keeper washer off.

[Steven Wahlert]

Prashun

Good suggestion about just setting the outfeed 1/2" lower than the saw table.
My table is a repurposed cabinet carcass on wheels with toggle clamps for levelling.
Your approach eliminates my other worry about aligning the slots between the saw top and independent table.
Certainly worth a try!

Someone said "less is more" and that could very well apply here.

Steve

[Prashun Patel]

Steven, occasionally, if I'm nervous about needing perfect support, I'll lay some scrap on top of the table. But most of the time that's unnecessary. The items for which support is most critical (>4ft stock, and large panels) can sag a slight bit on the outfeed and usually make good enough contact.

[paul cottingham]

I built a rolling outfeed that I can move around the shop. It is lower than my saw, so my mitre gauge floats over it. I have a tiny shop so everything needs to do double duty, and I use it as an assembly/clamping table as well.