My version of an articulated hollowing rig

[Jon Prouty]

As much as I wanted to purchase a Monster Articulated rig, I just couldn't swing it right now financially. So... I made my own. I took elements from multiple versions, steel snake, Monster, Hollow Fast, other DIY versions, etc. I do not intend to take any credit for any innovation or any new ideas - this is just how I did mine.

Due to the number of pics, I'll upload in subsequent threads added views.

First - the nitty gritty:
Base Plate - .375" 8"x8" steel plate
Base Tube - 1.5" sq tube steel
Arms - 1.25" sq Al bar stock (7.5" main, and 4.5" end)
Arms - 1.25" x .25" Al bar stock (7.5" - 2x)
hardware - 1/2" bolts (overkill but that is what I do)
boring bar - 3/4" steel about 10" after cutting holders
cutter holders - slices off the boring bar (only bought one 12" section)
thrust bearings - McMaster Carr :
6 Each 5909K31 (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=5909K31&pagenum=1139) Cage Assembly for 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 15/16" OD Steel Thrust Needle-Roller Bearing
12 Each 5909K44 (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=5909K44&pagenum=1139) .032" Thick Washer for 1/2" Shaft Diameter Steel Thrust Needle-Roller Bearing
tool bits - Harbor Freight pack for $5

I figure about $60-70 total investment. I owe a buddy lunch for doing the welding so that is another 10 spot that I should probably add to my list.

Regarding the laser setup - I ordered the laser and battery box from DigiKey for about $15 and bought more material from the metal supply place for $3.25 to finish it up. I should have that done up in the next week or so and will post those pics later.

On to the pictures:
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[Jon Prouty]

I did the tool holder a slight bit different than I have seen before - here I offset the screw so that I could mount a 1/4" bit in a straight orientation and also rotated.

Last thing was the walnut piece to lock the base to the lathe... I used some extra t-track hardware I had from one of those Rockler packages (bolt and handle). I splurged for a t-nut that is pounded into the bottom of the walnut (could have done this less ghetto but I am cheap and used what I had).

Anyway, that is all - let me know what you think.

Jon

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[Jon Prouty]

Dumb idea I learned while working with aluminum: when drilling the hole for the boring bar - do not use a forstner bit (it works but is heck on the bit). :rolleyes:

Jon

[Tim Thiebaut]

I think you did a very nice job on this! One of the best DIY jobs I have seen for these.

[Tony Wheeler]

nice job do you have part numbers for lazer and battery box

[John Hart]

geez...nicely done, Jon. I am so impressed. ;)

[Roland Martin]

Very nice work Jon. I have nothing for hollowing tools and have been thinking of doing something like this. No hollowing tools really beats the heck out of this arthritic body.

[Baxter Smith]

Very nice work!

[Bill Bulloch]

Very impressive. You did a super job. I ordered the Monster, because I was affraid to try and tackle the job of making one myself. With the help of my Son-In-Law, who has a weilder, I did make a steady rest though. I had bought a 12" steady from Jeff and was going to order a 16" one, but my Son-In-Law convenced me that we could make one. We made two, a 16" for me and a 15" for a friend. We copied Jeff's right down to the paint. Thanks Jeff.

[John Altberg]

Very nicely done. Thanks for the detailed instructions and parts list, too. This thread goes into subscription for future reference!

[Rob Cunningham]

Nice looking hollower.

[Jon Prouty]

nice job do you have part numbers for lazer and battery box

Hi Tony,
Here are the part numbers that I orderd (based on someone else's post here on SMC that I cannot recall)

VLM-650-03- LPT-ND VLM-650-03-LPT LASER MODULE 650NM SBH-321ASND

SBH-321AS HOLDER BATT W/COVR 2AA ON/OFF SW

Jon

[Jon Prouty]

Thanks all for the nice words... I hope to give this rig a real good workout soon.

Jon

[Bernie Weishapl]

Really nice lookig unit and looks like it will do the job well.

[Bill Bolen]

Super rig. With all the talent displayed on the tooling I'm anxious to see what you turn with it.

[Steve Campbell]

Great job on the rig. Please let us know how your laser works out for you. I still plan to redo my laser when I can figure out a better laser and mount system. Thanks for the links.

Steve

[Sid Matheny]

WOW that is a nice rig and I have saved this info. Thanks for sharing.

Sid

[Pete Wade]

Nice work. Let us know how it works for you.

[Steve Vaughan]

I love your rig here, and your pics and description makes it something I'm working toward for myself. Question, for you and others here - how do you judge the proper tightness of your nuts on those thrust bearings? Can you really bear down on tightening them or do you just snug it up and then a quarter turn more?
Thanks for the tutorial!

[Jon Prouty]

I love your rig here, and your pics and description makes it something I'm working toward for myself. Question, for you and others here - how do you judge the proper tightness of your nuts on those thrust bearings? Can you really bear down on tightening them or do you just snug it up and then a quarter turn more?
Thanks for the tutorial!

Glad I can help - let me know if you have any other questions! Please post pics of your when you finish.

Do not bear down on the joints... you will seize the bearings and the joint won't move. Just tighten them up and check the joint at the same time... little by little. You will know when you go to far - then just back it off a little. It is a feel thing that will be obvious as you do it. I used thin nylock nuts as my bolts were too short to use full sized ones - I highly recommend either a nylock or other locking nut.

Jon

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nice work building your own articulated system! Looks beefy enough to stand up to a lot of hollowing! Looking forward to seeing some HFs real soon!

[Steve Vaughan]

Thanks for the info...I sort of figured that might what you'd do, but I'd not ever used those type of bearings. It'll be a while yet before I can get ready to build, but hopefully by mid-summer.

[Jon Prouty]

Here is the laser setup... real simple. (sorry for the terrible pics - stupid phone is no good for anything, even calls)

A couple 1/2" steel tubes (scrap from the metal supplier - about $1) and a chunk of maple. I wanted to use wood for the cross piece to minimize vibration carrying through. I tapped a couple #10 holes and used a couple thumb screws from Ace. Let me know if you have any questions. I posted part numbers and links in a previous post in this thread for the laser components.

Cheers!
Jon
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[Edward Weingarden]

I'm new to this forum and found this thread when searching for plans for an articulated arm hollowing rig. This set up by Jon looks fairly easy to construct, and is a nice looking unit. I have a few questions about parts and construction.

1. What is the dimension of the base tube insert post? Did you use a steel or aluminum post? Do the two holding bolts keep the post from slipping down?
2. Do the aluminum arms provide enough strength and stability in comparison to steel?
3. How did you cut the end of the boring bar in order to mount the cutter?
4. How did you drill into the boring bar for the set screws?
5. When you built the set up for the laser light, was there anything you did to enhance the stability of vertical and horizontal bars?

Thanks for answering my questions.

Ed

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Jon,
That is a really nice jig. You did a great job on that!
For those with Mini lathes you can get a little more reach and flexibility fron the rig by making the base plate longer so it can overhang the end of the Lathe ways.....thereby you can have longer arms on the articulating parts.
Peter F.