blo and glue?

[Michael MacDonald]

if I used titebond II or III mixed with sanding dust to hide a badly done joint, how would the BLO react when I apply it? will the BLO highlight the error due to the glue in the repair?

I am going to do a test, but I thought there might already be experience out there.

by the way, this is for a friend... my joints are in great shape.

[Dan Hulbert]

The blo will not soak into the glue. I'd try sanding in the blo rather than the glue.

Experiment. Who says you have to be a kid to be in the science fair?

[Steve Schoene]

The time to fix dings and gaps is after most of the finishing has been completed not before. First BLO, then use a filler that matches the color after the BLO has darkened the wood. That filler may well not be sawdust mixed with glue.

[Michael MacDonald]

The time to fix dings and gaps is after most of the finishing has been completed not before....

not sure I completely agree with that. while color-matching epoxy might work nicely at first, if the wood changes (fades, or like cherry darkens) then fixing after the finish will look good at first and then spoil over time. My best fixes to small errors have been wholesale--where I chop out and replace the wood.... this is harder to do on a face frame that has a gap in a M&T joint... I read in shopnotes that liquid hide glue with sawdust works well... at least the article said that it would take a stain. I can see that using TBII and dust and then using BLO might not work, but this seemed to be the Norm-style of repair... or at least I remember seeing it in a NYW episode some time ago...

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> will the BLO highlight the error due to the glue in the repair?

Probably. The glue in the repair will not accept any of the coloring effect of BLO. That's the reason that Steve suggested to make your repair after you have colored the wood or applied BLO and you first coat of finish. At this point you will know what color you need to make to make the repair least noticeable.

[glenn bradley]

My best fixes to small errors have been wholesale--where I chop out and replace the wood....

Agreed, if it is not a small anomaly that can be dressed in with a small brush and some dye, a replacement or wholesale repair is probably best. Disassemble and make another part or, worst case, hack out a chunk between limiting elements (joints, profile changes, etc.), replace it and shape it in.

[Mark ten Haaf]

I have a large set of assorted Sharpies!

I confess that on a big "oops", I used a couple markers to freehand the grain after everything else failed. :-)

[Jerry Olexa]

In the end, you could mix up a dye using Transtint etc and blend it in....Agree with advice above for first steps...