Shaper and Power Feed Speed Question

[Josh Hulit]

I am currently running a PF-41 1hp feeder on my Powermatic 26 shaper. Going to be making some cherry raised panels with an Amana raised panel cutter I ordered today. Should I have both my feeder and shaper on the slowest speed settings? The feeder goes down to 13 fpm, and the shaper has two speed settings. Tried some the other day, but the cutter I was using could have been a little dull. Did multiple passes but still got some burn marks... Also noticed some tearout within the groove when running my new rail and stile set. Probably just the grain in the cherry, but thought it might be speed related also. Thanks!

[David Kumm]

You need to specify the diameter of the cutter. I assume 3 flute. The smaller the diameter the faster the cutter. You should be able to run without tearout unless the wood really changes direction on you. If so then you can climb cut with the feeder. Dave

[J.R. Rutter]

Cherry is tough with dull cutters. If it is dull, you should get it sharpened because burn is likely no matter what. Having said that, try: Slow speed on shaper, medium speed on feeder. Take most of the material off on the first pass, like 3/4 or 4/5 of it. If it doesn't burn, leave everything the same and rest fence for final pass. If it does burn, speed up the feeder for the final pass. For sticking cut, use outboard or "trap" fence clamped to the table and remove extra 1/16" from the width to get to exact final dimension.

[Josh Hulit]

Thanks Dave. The cutter is an Amana SC652, 3 wing, 4 5/8" diameter.

[Josh Hulit]

Thanks JR, I'll try that speed setup with the new cutter. Trap fence sounds like a good technique, learn something new on here all the time!

[David Kumm]

Josh, I would run at 6000 to 8000 rpm depending on what your choices are. I like to keep the speed of the cutter into the wood high enough to help with the tearout and adjust the feeder for the burning. I use an 8 speed feeder but find I usually use the lower four settings. Cherry can be funky so you just have to experiment. Whenever possible I avoid running in two passes as I seem to get better results with one. Can't explain why but has always been that way. I am running pretty big shapers so it may be necessary for you. Just don't assume that multiple passes always yields a better result. If you are new to power feeding and shaping, give yourself practice on scrap. Setting up the feeder and fence take up about 90% of the time and lots of bad things can happen. If you have lots of experience you know what I mean. Dave

[J.R. Rutter]

I used to have a PM 26, and the "low" speed is still roughly 7k - right in line with Dave's suggestion. I run panels in one pass as well, and they usually have less fuzz. But with cherry and a marginal cutter a fast pass can sometimes avoid burning. I wouldn't try to do a "skim" pass though. You want enough wood to form a good chip to draw the heat off of the cut. It is more comfortable to do a fast feed when you aren't removing as much wood. Of course, if you don't get burning with the new speed setup, one pass is certainly faster and will probably be cleaner.

[Erik Christensen]

I strongly suggest you go for a climb cut if you have any tearout issues - a power feeder is a great thing to have with a shaper and one of the best things I like about it it the ability to do a climb cut on figured stock - you will get more chips on the floor with a climb cut but for me it is a good trade off

and I know JR does more of this in a week than I do in a year but I cut my cope & sticks differently - I cut the profile on both sides of a wide board then rip them to width. As a novice at this I have a lower quality output and have had to learn to adjust for that. So - I run both sides of the board through the shaper and inspect the results - if all is good I rip off the rails/stiles - if I have a defect I just rip 1/2" off and run through the shaper again.

[Mike Schuch]

HOLD ON A MINUTE!!!!!! All great suggestions but if you are getting burn marks with a shaper you need to start by making sure the spindle is perfectly perpendicular to the table!!!!!!

My shaper spindle will tilt a minute of a degree or so between having the elevation locked and loose. So make sure you adjust the spindle for perpendicular with the spindle locked and always run stock with the spindle elevation locked.

Once you know your shaper is adjusted properly then you can proceed to the other suggestions. If you haven't checked the alignment lately now is the time!