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Jim Heikes
04-18-2011, 5:00 PM
I have a Tormek T-7 but see some limitations such as course grinding to reshape. I'd like to get some recommendations on an 8" variable speed grinder.

David Walser
04-18-2011, 5:24 PM
Jim,

I, too, have a Tormek and love it for everything but shaping my turning tools. I recommend the Woodcraft slow-speed grinder in combination with Tormek's Bench Grinder Mount that allows you to use your Tormek jigs with a dry grinder. I have that set up in my shop and it works like a dream. In less than 5 minutes the Woodcraft slow-speed grinder will bring a new bowl gouge to the desired shape. Then, without removing the gouge from the jig, it's only another couple of minutes on the Tormek to remove the scratches from the dry grinder and produce a smoothly polished bevel. The first time I tried the set up, I was surprised how smoothly it worked.

I know that you asked for recommendations for a variable speed 8" dry grinder and I've not given you any. My take is that the Woodcraft slow-speed grinder is more than fast enough for how you say you'll use the grinder. Having said that, I've heard good things about Delta's VS dry grinder and I've had a chance to use it a couple of times. The example I used was very smooth, but I cannot recommend it over the Woodcraft slow-speed grinder for use with woodturning tools. (The Woodcraft grinder is frequently on sale for less than $90.)

Here are some links:

Tormek bench mount: http://www.sharptoolsusa.com/index.php?target=product&prodID=214&catID=3

Woodcraft slow-speed grinder: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080939/29437/8in-Slow-Speed-Grinder.aspx

Delta VS Grinder: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080296/29119/Delta-8-VariableSpeed-Grinder-with-Toolless-Quick-Change-Model-GR450.aspx

Brian Libby
04-18-2011, 5:37 PM
I have had good luck with the Woodcraft slow speed grinder. I see little advantage to a variable speed. The higher the speed the quicker heat is generated.

Bernie Weishapl
04-18-2011, 9:44 PM
I have the Woodcraft SS grinder and put the Tormek jig on it. I can shape and take it straight to the Tormek.

john davey
04-18-2011, 11:34 PM
Are the aluminum oxide wheels that come with the Woodcraft ok or does everyone change them out like the grey ones that come with other grinders???

Rick Cicciarelli
04-18-2011, 11:43 PM
I have read that everyone changes the wheels out, which is why I did not factor that in when I considered the Woodcraft slow speed grinder. I don't know if there is a need for the variable speed...but I figured if I ever needed it, I would be disappointed that I did not have it. As such, I ended up buying the VS Porter Cable from Lowes. At $125 I figured it was tough to beat. The tool rests that come with it are junk, but I have the Wolverine sharpening system so I did not plan to use them anyway. So far I love it. I bought a Norton 80 grit 3x and a Norton 120 white stone for it. My only complaint is that there is some slight side-to-side wobble...but I am told this is due to the plastic inserts that Norton provides with the wheels and it is easily fixed by replacing with metal inserts. It has not bothered me and since it is only a slight side-to-side it does not have any affect on sharpening. Once it is up to speed it is the smoothest running grinder I have used.

David Walser
04-19-2011, 12:00 AM
I've not replaced the wheels that came with the Woodcraft grinder. They are a huge step up from the gray wheels that come with most grinders (which are actually better for most grinding tasks, but not for HSS turning tools). Are there better wheels available? Of course, but I don't think you'd feel you had to replace them before you could sharpen turning tools.

Don Geiger
04-19-2011, 8:42 AM
I suggest ditching the plastic bushings that come with the wheels and replacing them with 1" o.d X 5/8" i.d. X 1" long steel headless drill bushings (available from McMaster-Carr, p.n. 8491A562 at: $9.60 each).

When you install any wheel: use 3/4" o.d. paper sticky dots placed between the edge of the cup washers and the sides of the wheel to correct for side to side wobble. First determine where the apex of the wobble exists by using a pencil to make tick marks on the both sides of each wheel. Use these marks to determine where to place the sticky dots between the edge of the cup washer and the side of the wheel. Place them 180 degrees apart on both sides of each wheel until you corecct the wobble (Note: I usuall start with a stack of 5 or 6). I've done this to many grinders and it takes me about 15 or 20 minutes.

Then use a wheel truing device (not just a hand held wheel dresser) to make the wheels truly concentric to the axle, flat across the width and also making the aggregate very level.

Do these few things and the vibration in the grinder will be significantly reduced and your tools will not bounce on the surface. You will see an improvement in the condition of the bevels and cutting edges of your tools. It will also eliminate the need purchase and install a wheel balancing system because you've corrected to excentriciities of the wheel.

It is a practice that I've used for quite some time and I first suggested it on SMC quite about a year ago. Many people have tried it and reported that it worked well for them. If you try it, please report back on SMC to let us know how it worked for you. Also let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Good luck!!

Don Geiger



I have read that everyone changes the wheels out, which is why I did not factor that in when I considered the Woodcraft slow speed grinder. I don't know if there is a need for the variable speed...but I figured if I ever needed it, I would be disappointed that I did not have it. As such, I ended up buying the VS Porter Cable from Lowes. At $125 I figured it was tough to beat. The tool rests that come with it are junk, but I have the Wolverine sharpening system so I did not plan to use them anyway. So far I love it. I bought a Norton 80 grit 3x and a Norton 120 white stone for it. My only complaint is that there is some slight side-to-side wobble...but I am told this is due to the plastic inserts that Norton provides with the wheels and it is easily fixed by replacing with metal inserts. It has not bothered me and since it is only a slight side-to-side it does not have any affect on sharpening. Once it is up to speed it is the smoothest running grinder I have used.

Alan Trout
04-19-2011, 9:12 AM
The woodcraft grinder for the money is hard to beat and the wheels are just fine. I have the factory wheels on mine without any issues. I agree with Don that the wheel needs to be dressed properly and not with a hand held dresser. If you have the Wolverine setup get one of Don's dressers or if you are like me I use the Tormek jigs on my grinder. I just put a single point diamond that you can get from most industrial supply co. in my SVS 50 skew jig and it work perfect and you get the wheel surface parallel to the Tormek bar as well as a perfectly dressed surface. I get almost as good a finish off of my dry grinder as I do off of my wet sharpener.

Good Luck

Alan

Bernie Weishapl
04-19-2011, 10:33 AM
I haven't changed my wheels out and they have been fine now for 4 yrs. Much better than grey wheels by far.

Brian Libby
04-19-2011, 5:41 PM
I also use the original wheels that came with the Woodcraft. They work fine.