Thin vs "normal" kerf saw blades

[Mike Holbrook]

Is there a significant difference in the 1/8" normal kerf blades and the 3/32" thin kerf blade? I mean differences other than 1/32"(I'm sure someone would have jumped on that). I ended up with a thin kerf in my bag at the show and I am wondering if I should go to the trouble to swap it out?

I heard someone say that the only reason to buy the thin kerf is to overcome some saw resistance in an underpowered saw. The blade is a Freud LU83R010, 50 tooth combination blade that I plan to run on my 2hp General 50-185LM contractor type saw.

[Norman Hitt]

I ended up with a thin kerf in my bag at the show and I am wondering if I should go to the trouble to swap it out?

I heard someone say that the only reason to buy the thin kerf is to overcome some saw resistance in an underpowered saw. The blade is a Freud LU83R010, 50 tooth combination blade that I plan to run on my 2hp General 50-185LM contractor type saw.

Mike, a lot of folks like the thin kerf blades, but personally, I have tried the thin kerf blades but I did not like them, and I don't use anything except the full kerf, (1/8") blades, (even when I was using my OLD original 3/4 hp Craftsman contr saw).

My experience was that the Full Kerf blades were much more stable, with less tendency to warp from load heat, and made better cuts. With 2 hp in your saw you would have NO problems using a full kerf blade, and I think you would be much happier with one in the long haul, instead of the thin kerf. I guess another question comes to my mind when almost every manufacturer (if not all) that make thin kerf blades, also make and advertise blade stabilizers, (which among other things, limits the cut depth of the blade). My feelings are that if my blade needs a stabilizer, I need a different blade, not a stabilizer, 'Course, if everyone felt like I do, they wouldn't make thin kerf blades, but they sell lots of them, so I guess you just have to make your own choice. I guess you could get one of each, and see which YOU like best.

[Mike Holbrook]

That is sort of how I was looking at it. I thought I was handed a 1/8" and was a little surprised on closer inspection to find the 3/32 on the label. The blades are otherwise identical.

I was thinking though that a thin kerf on a combination blade might not be to bad a thing. Since I plan to cut sheet material on my Ez Smart and I have a good big miter saw, I might just put a 1/8" Glue Line ripper on my new TS and keep the thin kerf for those rare TS crosscuts and small pieces of sheet material. It is a 50 tooth. Or maybe I should send the Combination back and get the ripper and a crosscut blade both in 1/8".

[Bruce Walton]

If you use a splitter, it will be too thick to use with a thin kerf blade.

[Mike Holbrook]

Good point, but I picked up a Micro splitter to go on my zero clearance insert. I discovered that I had a 3/32" when I was shopping the GRR-Ripper and Micro splitter. I have the 3/32" Micro splitter. So I will actually have to return both if I want to go back to all 1/8".

It was not until the next day when my friend went to Freud to buy a blade that I started hearing that the 1/8" might be better for a saw with good power.

[John Miliunas]

If you use a splitter, it will be too thick to use with a thin kerf blade.
Bruce, I may be mistaken, but I think most OEM splitters are geared for thin kerf, though they do work for 1/8" kerf, as well.:)

As to the "thin vs. 1/8" kerf" debate, I also happen to be a proponent of the standard 1/8". Used nothing but on my former Delta contractor saw and it worked just fine. If using a high-quality, sharp blade and it starts bogging down or burning, chances are it's NOT the blade at fault. Could be the speed stock is being fed, fence not set properly to blade or, in some instances, the user is trying to push his/her setup to the max by using very thick and dense hardwoods. If it's the latter, chances are one should be using a band saw in the first place.:) :cool:

[Jim Becker]

My opinion is that thin kerf blades are a nice option, but sometimes get over-hyped. Most saws, including the 1.5hp contractors' style saws, have more than enough power to use a regular kerf blade. Yes, ripping really thick stock is more "easily" done with the thin kerf blade and for doing a lot of it on a lower powered saw, I'd choose the thinner kerf cutter. But choosing the right type of blade (tooth configuration) also goes a long way in that respect.

My preference is to stick to one format of blade as it eliminates the need to adjust the fence scale as you switch back and forth. One other thing...many thin kerf blades tend to run better with a blade stablizer. That's extra cost and can also reduce cut depth capacity. It's not a negative...just something to consider as part of the decision.

Whatever you do, buy a good quality blade, keep it clean, have it sharpened when appropriate and always try to inspect it periodically for damage, etc.