Inlaying of Letters on the Toybox

[Mike OMelia]

The future owner of the toybox I am building wants the child's name on it. I thought I would do it as inlay. Assuming I cannot buy the letters, I plan to find a font I like, print the letters out in the right size, glue them to the inlay wood and scroll saw cut them. The next part is trickier I think. I now need to make router templates. Right? So, using the inlay letters and a bearing bit, cut out a match to the letter, then, using the match and a bit/bushing guide combo, cut out the negative. This forms the router template. But, seems like a lot of work, and things like "A" and "R" are nowhere as simple as, say "L". Man, wish I had a laser!

Help!

Mike

[Dave MacArthur]

You could try cutting out the letters in 2 boards at once, the bottom board being the one you will use to stick the letters INTO. Then you just cut the bottom board into an easy shape, say a big oval, and inlay THAT whole thing (with top-board letters inserted in bottom board matching holes) into the face of toybox.

[Chip Lindley]

...seems like a lot of work, and things like "A" and "R" are nowhere as simple as, say "L". Man, wish I had a laser!

Help!

Mike

OR, a small CNC router! Those are invaluable for adding fonts and other details not easily do-able with a pattern bit and template.

Any way you go with ball-bearing pattern bit, the corners of all letters will be rounded. Of course, you could chisel out the corners square, and custom-fit your veneer into the recess.

Templates can be made oversize, and routed with a solid guide ring in the router base. Although the template is large and curved at corners, it could be designed to almost cause angular corners down to the diameter of the bit used.

191194

You will have to do the math from the outer diameter of the bit to outer diameter of the guide to figure how oversize to make the template. And, of course, the accuracy of the template will determine how "nice" the lettering looks. One small dia. bit could be used to trace a fine outline of the lettering, and then a larger bit could be used freehand to hog out remaining wood to fit the veneer. Practice makes perfect.

[Dave Gaul]

Man, wish I had a laser!

Help!

Mike


There are plenty of people on SMC who own lasers. I'm sure one of them would be willing to make you a template with the font of your choice. Check the "Friends of The Creek" section for a good starting point.

[John Coloccia]

re: cutting the letters out

I usually print out the thinnest outline of the inlay shape that I can, not a solid shape. Then I strive to SPLIT that printer line with my saw. I find this far easier than trying to stay just to the outside of a big, black mess. I've tried it both ways, and I always find that the outline is easier for me. So you can experiment doing the block shape or the outline to find out which way works best for you.

[Mike OMelia]

As I am uninterested in reinventing the wheel, I may use these folks for the letters: http://www.3dwoodcraft.com/indoorunpaintedwoodenletters.html and then build a planograph with a pencil grinder attached (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=souix+pencil+grinder)

Yes, If I had made any progress on my CNC machine...

Mike

[Joshua Culp]

You might want to read the 28 March article on woodgears.ca for ideas. The writer built a 3-D Router Pantograph.

[Mike OMelia]

I want to thank you for that link!! Bought the plans, wanted a 3d pantograph, this is way cool!

Mike

[Jim Finn]

do a search for "double bevel inlays" I do inlays this way and it is simple to do on a scroll saw.

[Mike Heidrick]

Mike, is there anything I and my cnc router can help you with?

[Mike OMelia]

Possibly, to save time. I would have to ship the panel to you

[Joshua Culp]

I want to thank you for that link!! Bought the plans, wanted a 3d pantograph, this is way cool!

Mike

You're welcome. He posts a new article every Monday. I look forward to seeing what he comes up with each week.