Splitter install problem.

[Mark Singer]

I bought a Biesmeyer Splitter. I started installing it on my Powermatic 66 and the stud is frozen in the large nut that the splitter screws into. I sprayed Fail Safe on it...beat on it! It almost looks like it is welded? Advice????

[Jamie Buxton]

Heat often works. Use a propane torch on low to warm the nut and bolt. You don't have to get it red hot -- just well warmer than ambient.

Umm.. you might want to clean the sawdust out of the saw base before you play around with fire in there.

[Mark Singer]

Jamie,

Thanks, It is not in the saw, I got it out , but I can't seperate the big nut from the stud....I will try heat tomorrow...Thanks


Heat often works. Use a propane torch on low to warm the nut and bolt. You don't have to get it red hot -- just well warmer than ambient.

Umm.. you might want to clean the sawdust out of the saw base before you play around with fire in there.

[David LaRue]

Personally,

I would remove the whole nut and stud assembly from the saw via the 1 1/4 nut. Once I had it on my work bench (not your good one) :D I would soak the whole thing in brake fluid or your favorite nut loosing solvent. There is a allen in the stud, so I would use that along with a wrench to try to loosen the stud from the large nut assemby that screws in the the saw.

I personall would not use heat on the assembly in my saw.. :eek:

http://home.comcast.net/~mywoodshop/assets/images/Dado-Blade-Tool-200.jpg

[David LaRue]

Oops I see you got it out of the saw ... whooh (beat me to the post) . Worst case you need a new nut assemby.


David

[Ernie Kuhn]

Mark,
I am not sure of the configuration but, is it possible to pack the stud in a bit of dry ice and heat the nut part with a blow dryer on high? I did this with a couple of alignment pins on the lathe bed extensions since the pin od and the mating hole id were the same.
Ernie

[Mark Singer]

Thanks,

The Heat solution worked....I used the heat gun from my edge bander and it put up a fight ....but finally gave in! Thanks jamie and others.
Even after the splitter was pretty tough to get aligned with the blade. It took me 3 trys! I am not sure I will get used to this thing....good thing is I can just pullit out and leave the housing..

[Jim Becker]

I am not sure I will get used to this thing....good thing is I can just pullit out and leave the housing..
You will find yourself using it frequently. Why? Because you can do so conveniently and without a hassle. I leave it on my saw and only remove it when either I need to make a cut that it cannot accomodate or I need the table saw surface for something other than cutting...this splitter was the best accessory investment I have made for my table saw...because I use it.

[Mark Singer]

Jim ,

How did you check the alignment? I ran a digital caliper of the fence. The splitter appears to be the thickness of the blade without the teeth. So I am pretty much directly in line with the blade,...If you want to move it a little you have to take the whole thing apart!


You will find yourself using it frequently. Why? Because you can do so conveniently and without a hassle. I leave it on my saw and only remove it when either I need to make a cut that it cannot accomodate or I need the table saw surface for something other than cutting...this splitter was the best accessory investment I have made for my table saw...because I use it.

[Ken Garlock]

Mark, something I would try is to take a piece of 3/4 X 4 about 20 inches long. Cut a slot down the middle of the piece length ways about 16 inches long. If you use a good piece of hardwood scrap, you will have a nice straight slot the width of your blade. Slide the slotted wood along the blade so that the slot covers the splitter and the blade. You should be able to adjust the splitter to center in the slot. Viola, your done. :cool:

[Jim Becker]

Mark, once I had the splitter "snugged up", I used a straight edge in contact with the edge of the blade (teeth engaged) to adjust the mechanism by "tapping". Once it was aligned, I further tightened the bolt(s) while keeping the straight edge engaged with both the blade and the splitter. It was not "fun" due to the close tolerances, but it worked and has remained in alignment for a few years now.

[Mark Singer]

The splitter knife is not as wide as the blade, it seems like it should be aligned on the center line of blade and splitter so the teeth would be projecting equally on both sides.
Mark, once I had the splitter "snugged up", I used a straight edge in contact with the edge of the blade (teeth engaged) to adjust the mechanism by "tapping". Once it was aligned, I further tightened the bolt(s) while keeping the straight edge engaged with both the blade and the splitter. It was not "fun" due to the close tolerances, but it worked and has remained in alignment for a few years now.

[Jim Becker]

Use some paper as a shim to offset from the edge of the teeth slightly. You don't need it to be much...just a "scooch"...