Babbit bearings

[Jack Wilson]

I am looking at an old jointer with babbit bearings, I need some advice from an old sage or two, go ahead, or stay away? I don't think I want to learn how to pour the bearings, I just want to use the machine and deal with the blades. What advice do you have to offer, do you have any experience with or do you have machines with these bearings, how long are they good for?

Thanks
Jack

[David Werkheiser]

If the bearings are tight and kept oiled, the jointer will run for many years. There are many babbit jointers that have been converted to ball bearings, it all depends on the design of machine. A couple of things to look out for, if it has a square head, walk away. The square heads have too much space between the tables and head. Some of the Crescent jointers have a round head with what is known as a "clamshell" head for locking the knives in, and there are cases where it has come apart when its running.
David

[Frank Drew]

Ditto on David's advice to avoid square head jointers; the potential for a really disastrous accident are just too great (a round head jointer can ding a finger or two, a square head can pull in your entire hand. 'Nuff said?)

I think it would be useful to be comfortable and competent working with Babbitt bearings, but it's a skill I don't have and I'd probably be pretty intimidated when trying it on my own the first time. That said, there's certainly lots of information on the subject that you could find online, and, these days, probably dozens of videos you could download that would walk you through the process.

[David Kumm]

Go to owwm.org They talk babbit all the time. Dave

[Chip Lindley]

Yeah, those OWWM'ers eat, sleep and drink Babbitt! You can find out all you need to know about Babbitt bearings and your specific machine there.

[David Werkheiser]

If you know any old Navy machinist mates they would know how to re pour babbitts.
David

[Gary Radice]

I'm not an expert but I did assist someone who helped me repour the lower bearing on my 80 year old Crescent bandsaw. The upper bearing was fine after 80 years, and the lower was probably usable but was getting a little thin and I wanted to know how to pour babbit anyway.

In general, babbit bearings are in two pieces. The cap is held on with bolts and separated from the base by shims of paper, cardboard, cork or some other softer material. As the babbit wears and the shaft loosens you can tighten it up by removing a shim or two. When all the shims are gone and you can no longer tighten it, it is time to re-pour. If you can get to the machine and the owner allows it, open them up and take a look. If you can, take some pix and post them here or at OWWM if you aren't sure what you are looking at (I didn't!).

Having done it once on my bandsaw, I certainly would say that a jointer with babbit bearings would not be a deal breaker for me if the rest of the machine was safe and sound, the fence was straight, it had a porkchop, etc. The only downsides of babbit bearings is that you do have to remember to oil them and they can sling oil around if you overdo it. For many it is too much hassle. But as for longevity they can far outlast ball bearings. I'd certainly repour them before I converted good babbit bearings to ball bearings.

[Larry Edgerton]

I repoured the ones in my Porter Jointer years ago, a little sketchy on memory on that, but I do remember it was no big deal. I Used some grafite pucks that I found somewhere for the purpose in the pour. The machine had glass oilers on both sides of the cutterhead, and the bearing total length was 3-4"s, probably why they last so long, so much supporting area.

I had it all restored and working perfectly and when I had to downsize my shop I gave it to a friend of mine. he left it outside all uncovered all last winter. I just bit my tongue.......

Larry

[keith micinski]

Uh, don't you mean ex friend. I would give him the old what for if for nothing else
to teach him not to do that anymore.

[Joshua Culp]

Another excellent resource for everything you ever wanted to know about babbit is a forum for guys who collect and run antique flywheel engines called SmokStak.com.

[Larry Edgerton]

Uh, don't you mean ex friend. I would give him the old what for if for nothing else
to teach him not to do that anymore.

When I noticed it he had just sawn up a 1000 ft of ash for me with his circle mill. He owns a log cabin kit company who I do the trim outs for quite often. Didn't like it, but a gift is a gift. I did razz him a bit but not everyone shares my passion.

I gave him a Jeep that I rolled over, and he did restore that. everyone has different priorities I guess. Either way, I didn't have room for it, and I offered to several people on this forum, and no takers. I couldn't make myself haul it to the scrap yard. It was also flat belt drive, and just took up too much space. I had to cram tools from a 9000 ft shop into 1800 ft, couldn't keep it all. I let an Oliver 36" BS go for $500, all restored and ready to go......

Larry

[Jack Wilson]

I repoured the ones in my Porter Jointer years ago, a little sketchy on memory on that, but I do remember it was no big deal. I Used some grafite pucks that I found somewhere for the purpose in the pour. The machine had glass oilers on both sides of the cutterhead, and the bearing total length was 3-4"s, probably why they last so long, so much supporting area.

I had it all restored and working perfectly and when I had to downsize my shop I gave it to a friend of mine. he left it outside all uncovered all last winter. I just bit my tongue.......

Larry

Listen Larry, I am willing to drive to Michigan to pick that up for you, I have a shop in need of a jointer. It has a roof!

[John Toigo]

I have almost all babbitt bearing machines in my shop. To check the condition of the existing babbitt bearings try your hardest to move or wiggle the shaft in the bearing. it should move a bit along the length but no up or down or side to side. As suggested above - unbolt one of the bearing covers & look inside. If there are shims between the covers that's good because that means there is lots of wear left in the bearing. Check the oiler or oil hole. It should NOT have grease in it. Babbitts run on oil and that's very important. Grease is not a proper lubricant for babbitts and will cause them to wear faster. The shaft in the bearing should be clean with a light coating of oil. There shouldn;t be any foreign matter in there. If you buy a babbitt machine you will want to clean the bearings making sure that the oil channels (little grooves in the bottom bearing) are clean so oil can cover the entire surface of the bearing. Pouring babbitt is not a big deal but most folks (including me) find that the first time they have to make the pour a couple times to get the knack of it. OWWM is an excellent resource for this kind of information and also you can look up the particular jointer you are considering & get specs, pictures and other info on it.

[Frank Drew]

I had to cram tools from a 9000 ft shop into 1800 ft, couldn't keep it all. I let an Oliver 36" BS go for $500, all restored and ready to go......



:eek::eek::eek:!

[Larry Edgerton]

Listen Larry, I am willing to drive to Michigan to pick that up for you, I have a shop in need of a jointer. It has a roof!

I wish I had found you before he took it. Next time I see Chad I will ask him if he wants to get rid of it. It is his now. I still have the motor, a new 5 hp 3 ph with the flat belt pulley at my shop.

Larry

[Jack Wilson]

Here is a final update on my quest for a nice jointer. I recently purchased an older Mini Max FS35. Not sure of the date of manufacture, but it is the mint green era. It's a 14" (13.75") jointer/planer, it came with the mortising attachment which I have not yet used, but I do have it mounted. 3hp 220v, 701 lbs, works like new! It lacks some of the finesse of the newer machines, like sprung tables to ease raising and lowering, and the fence, it must be removed to use the planer, and it weighs a ton, not easily adjusted, and its just awkward. The newer units have nicer aluminum fences and I need to see if I can make them compatible.

Thanks to everyone for your insight.
Jack

[Larry Edgerton]

Congrats Jack!

I liked my Porter and all my other old machines, but they are slowly being replaced by machines from Europe. Next will be a Mini or SCM jointer. They are just easier to live with and more accurate.

You made a wise choice.

Larry