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Nick Clayton
04-09-2011, 11:57 AM
I'm going to hang some 3.5"crown molding and have never done so before. What would you use in the way of nails for a pneumatic nailer; I was thinking 2-2.50" 15G?

What do the finish carpenters out there suggest

Clint Olver
04-09-2011, 12:18 PM
I was thinking 2-2.50" 15G?

That's what I've used.

C

John M. Smith
04-09-2011, 12:36 PM
Also what I have used. Try to hit studs and ceiling hoists. Nails don't hold to good in drywall.

John

Nick Clayton
04-09-2011, 12:42 PM
Thanks guys. I've added blocking fOr behind the moulding to give the nails something to bite into

Rich Engelhardt
04-13-2011, 7:19 AM
I'm going to hang some 3.5"crown molding and have never done so before. What would you use in the way of nails for a pneumatic nailer; I was thinking 2-2.50" 15G?

Determine the spring angle your crown will use.
Rip a nailer to that angle.
Use 2.5" 15ga to attach the nailer to the top plate - not the studs.
Use butt joints in/on the corners - don't miter them.
Tack the crown to the nailer.
I use the smallest guage fastener I can that will hold.
Mostly 18 ga - but - 23 ga pins w/a small <-emphasis on small - amount of adhesive - can work also if the pieces are short (1'and under).
OTOH - for runs longer than 15 or so feet, I'll sometimes step up to a 15 or 16 ga.

I use a blob or two of TBII behind the crown in any spots where there's a belly or bow in the wall.

Also - to get a good tight ceiling to crown fit - if you have a stipple or textured ceiling, mark out from the wall where the crown will meet the ceiling.
Cut a small block of wood to that size to use as a sanding block.
Sand the texture smooth so that when the crown goes up it doesn't ride on the high spots.

Some tools that are worth their weight in gold:

- The Benchdog jig. The picture on the jig showing the proper orientation itself is worth the cost of the jig. Just make sure it fits under the right side of your miter saw.
- A Starrett Pro Site 505A-7 protractor. Since I do a fair amount of crown/trim, I opted for the more expensive aluminum one for ~ $45.00. Starrett also offers a less expensive plastic one for about half the price.
- A 2" long capable 18 ga nailer. (Despite what I said above - sometimes stuff happens...a belly or a bow in the wall hits just right/wrong and you need to hit a stud.)
- A "third hand" to hold the crown &/or nailer up. You can buy a ready made one - or - I use a painter's extensiion pole w/a drwywall sanding pad on the end.
I needed something - the pole was there = the sanding pad was on it - I gave it a try. Worked like a champ.

One last tip...paint the ceiling b4 you hang the crown, but, after you've marked it and sanded it smooth.

Jim Andrew
04-13-2011, 8:09 AM
When I have a question about nail length, I take a short piece of the trim, hold it up and put the length nail next to it in the position I would nail it, and look at the length of nail sticking out past the trim to determine if it will be long enough to go into the plate far enough to hold. Could try nailing a scrap with one nail and prying it off to see how well it holds. I don't like things falling off the wall.