Finishing

[Keith E Byrd]

What technique do you use to put on WOP and other such finishes. Do you do it with the wood on the lathe spinning or do you finish them off the lathe?
How long do you wait betwen coats?
If you do it while spinning can't you put several coats on in a very short time?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Keith,

The wipe-on poly process that I use: Once the form is complete and sanded I remove it from the lathe and apply the first coat of poly. For this first step I use a 1" sponge brush and try to saturate the wood just like I was using a Danish oil finish. Be sure to wipe off any excess after letting it soak into the wood for a few minutes. I let that dry for 24 hours and check for coverage. If the poly was absorbed into sections of the form, saturate the form once again and wipe off the excess.

After waiting for at least 24 hours to let the saturated coat set up, you can then apply the first of many thin coats. I use a paper towel folded up to make a small pad, wipe on a thin coat and let dry for 3 to 5 hours, depending on the temp and humidity. Usually the thin coats dry really fast because they are so thin and should never be thick enough to cause a run. If you miss a spot – try not to go back over as it will lift the existing wet poly. Just make sure to hit the missed spot the next time. The process is more like a French Polish as far as applying the thin coats. I normally apply 2 or 3 coats this way before doing the first light sanding using either a super fine sanding sponge or 600 grit sand paper just to knock off the nubs. I repeat the procedure until I have the level of finish (or gloss) that I want - usually 5 to 7 thin coats.

I find the Minwax Wipe On works great when real fresh but starts to dry up as soon as the can is opened. It’s nothing more than regular Poly that has been thinned down so it will flow better and dry faster. When you notice it get thicker (and darker in color) - just add a little mineral spirits, shake well and you'll be good to go.

Also, I know that some folks use a base coat of de-waxed shellac instead of saturating with poly. Seems to work well but I do not have any experience using shellac.

[Donny Lawson]

Just like Steve said, apply thin coats and let dry in between each one. I do not do this while still on the lathe since there is alot of time involved in getting the shine you desire. I have a place in one corner of the shop where it is out of the way of other projects. While each coat is drying I'm turning on another one.

[Jim Burr]

I don't know if this applys or not, but on pens with CA finish, I'll spin it at 3k and apply 3-5 coats while running. On small boxes or little what-nots, I'll use bee's wax and apply directly from the block while running, then build up heat with a rag while on the lathe. Ren wax, apply by hand with lathe off, then run lathe to buff. Hope there was something useful in there.

[Mark Hubl]

I don't use WOP a lot. Probably why I just screwed up. Date your can and if it has been around a while do a little test. I, and some others have had the WOP not want to dry. This can be a problem. I would follow Steve's steps, he gets great results with it.

[Keith E Byrd]

Steve thanks for a very thorough tutorial! One question - why wouldn't you do some of that on the lathe? It seems to dry fast, you can put many quick coats?

[John Hart]

Lacquer is for lovers :)

[Steve Schlumpf]

Keith - if you saturate the form - it will take a while to dry. Plus, I like having it off the lathe so I can start turning something else while that one is drying. Also, I can apply finish all at one time and not have to worry about blending everything once the tenon was removed. I do know some folks use shellac and that will dry faster, seal the wood and you can start in with the thin coats of poly while still on the lathe - if that is what you want to do.

[Keith E Byrd]

"- if you saturate the form - it will take a while to dry. Plus, I like having it off the lathe so I can start turning something else while that one is drying."

I got it - that makes a lot of sense! I appreciate the tips.

[Dan Forman]

Some may be interested in the late Russ Fairfield's pages on the subject.

http://www.woodturnerruss.com/FinishingSecrets.html

Dan