Stanley Bailey No. 8 Restore - Help!

[Adam Slutsky]

I recently purchased a circa 1930 Stanley Bailey No. 8C (type 14 I think) that I thought was in pretty good shape. I took it apart and soaked the pieces in citric acid to get rid of the rust. When I tried to put the pieces back together I noticed that the threads on the adjuster knob are stripped and the threads inside the frog also appear to be in poor shape. Is there any way to tell what the size and threads per inch of the thing holding the adjuster knob is so I could tap/rethread it? Is there anyone out there selling new pieces to fit? Any guidance would be much appreciated.

[Mark Wyatt]

Adam,

I'm sure if you can give us a picture of the frog and screws, either I or someone else on the board can supply replacement parts. Stanley used many custom sized threads.

[Jim Koepke]

Adam,

Before you do anything, make sure you are turning it correctly. It is a left hand thread.

Good luck finding a tap for this. It is an odd 27 threads per inch (iirc).

You may have to try and find a frog on ebay or from one of the other sources for used parts.

Another option may be to find a different adjuster bolt and make a tap or a chase from the bolt. If the threads aren't to messed up you may have chance with a careful use of JB Weld.

In my thread on rehabilitating an old plane is a section on how to repair threads using JB Weld. Others use other products available through automotive or machinist supply houses.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373-Fettling-A-Plane-from-Junker-to-Jointer&p=1339973

It is toward the end of the thread. The particular post is called "Advanced Fettling 404 Repairing threads."

A search using the SMC search feature may find other thread repair information.

Keep us informed about what you find. I will look and see if I have any spares.

jtk

[Adam Slutsky]

Thanks Jim-I was putting it in clockwise instead of counterclockwise! I got it to thread into the frog. However, when I turn the adjuster knob the knob doesn't turn on the thread and instead comes out of the frog. I put some wd40 on the thread and am going to soak it overnight.

[Jim Koepke]

You are welcome, glad to be of help.

If the knob is tight, it could be a replacement knob. Often from having the lever cap screw to tight and trying to adjust the blade depth these would get worn. I think also tap and die wear in the Stanley factory may cause some mismatches in the fit of these at times.

jtk

[Greg Wease]

Hopefully the parts you have will work out fine after cleanup. If not, Stanley sells a kit of parts for $10 that includes a knob and a stud plus many other useful parts. When I have to replace the stud I put 2 knobs on and tighten them together so I can get the stud tight enough in the frog.

[Don Dorn]

Just my opinion of course, but I'd check for sole flatness - if it is, great and carry on. If not, I'd let it give up the ghost because I can't imagaine trying to effectively flatten an 8.

[Richard Dooling]

If checking the sole for flatness be sure to have the frog, blade, breaker and lever cap in place. Tightening everything down influences the shape of the sole.

When lapping the sole have everything in place but with the blade backed off well away from the mouth.

I'm amazed at how much cast iron can flex.

[Johnny Kleso]

Call Stanley and ask if they have replacement parts

800-262-2161 ex 55839
I checked the website and thhey dont list the dept adjuster stud but do have the brass adjuster..
I think you might be abble to order it by a call as some parts they dont list online
http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/usa.htmlhttp://www.stanleytoolparts.com/usa.html (http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/usa.htmlhttp://www.stanleytoolparts.com/usa.html)


Also let me say it AGAIN
WD-40 is NOT penetrating oil it is an ant-rust oil

Kroil from Kano Labs is the best PENETRATING OIL

[Adam Slutsky]

Thanks to all for the helpful advice. I still cannot get the adjustment knob off the stud. I'm going to try soaking the thing in some other toxic fluid (other than WD40) and then try removing it. I also contacted Stanley to see if they still sell this part from 1930.

[Greg Wease]

This is the kit I mentioned in a previous reply:

http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/spkit3baplsc.html

[Johnny Kleso]

Try wire brushing the stud before soaking if you have a fine three cornered file you can try tracing the threads before soaking so you just need it to move a small amount before coming loose..

[Jim Koepke]

This is the kit I mentioned in a previous reply:

The image shows the part, but the description doesn't.

That does not mean the part is or isn't in the kit.

Like Johnny said, give them a call.

jtk

[Johnny Kleso]

With the kit you get alot of parts you can only use with a UK made plane..
I would buy parts for USA (imperial) made parts

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

FWIW, Highland Woodworking sells replacement plane parts; I assume they're simply selling the Stanley kits. Their list for a bench plane screw kit says it does include the depth adjuster and stud.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/benchplanescrewkit.aspx

I know I had seen a vintage tool dealer with a nice collection of parts, too, but I can't remember.

[Greg Wease]

With the kit you get alot of parts you can only use with a UK made plane..
I would buy parts for USA (imperial) made parts

Not true Johnny. The Stanley kit includes both metric and imperial sizes. It is the same kit sold by Highland Hardware. I have purchased several and can confirm they work fine on the USA made planes.

[Jim Koepke]

FWIW, Highland Woodworking sells replacement plane parts; I assume they're simply selling the Stanley kits.

One of my college instructors did not like the word assume. He wrote the word on the chalk board with dashes ass-u-me. He then pointed to the parts and said when you assume, you make an a-- of U and me.

What is kind of interesting on the Highland site is the writing on the plane. It looks to say "Made in England."

The English parts may work on an American made plane, I do not know. A phone call to Highland might be a good idea just to make sure.

--- Oops, I posted this before reading Greg's post.

jtk

[Johnny Kleso]

Greg,

How do I use metric parts in an imperial plane???????????
Use a really big screwdriver???

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Do UK made planes even use metric threaded screws and such? Metrication has taken quite some time, (they didn't start until the late 60s, and it wasn't until what, 95 that they mandated metric measures on packaged goods, I believe...) I know for some bicycles and some drum gear, you find BA and whitworth threads on stuff from 60s and 70s. I'd imagine planes kept using whatever threads they had been using.

Never mind - didn't read the thread fully; obviously they must have used metric if the package includes both...

[Greg Wease]

Sorry I confused you Johnny. The kit contains complete sets of both metric and imperial threaded parts. Just discard the metric ones.

[keith micinski]

Heat is by far and away the best penetrating oil there is. A little propane torch and that thing will unscrew right out.

[Gaz Palmer]

Heat is by far and away the best penetrating oil there is. A little propane torch and that thing will unscrew right out.

Or simply use a cigarette lighter/candle to heat the part.

[Adam Slutsky]

I tried contacting both Stanley and Highland Woodworking. They both told me that their parts may fit the plane. I'm going to look for a donor plane and work with what I have now. Thanks for all the input!!!

[Jim Koepke]

Adam,

Before you do anything, make sure you are turning it correctly. It is a left hand thread.

Good luck finding a tap for this. It is an odd 27 threads per inch (iirc).

Keep us informed about what you find. I will look and see if I have any spares.

jtk


Ooops! My error, checked today and it is 24 threads per inch.

Will send PM later.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Adam,

Inquiring minds are curious, did you ever get this resolved?

jtk