Plasti Dip Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating by Perfomix

[Michael Ginsberg]

I had an idea.... Anybody ever tried dipping the biting edge of their dovetail jaws in a product like this as to not mar soft wood? This is the kind of coating that is on tool handles and it is removable.

Michael

[Steve Vaughan]

It sort of makes sense, but I'd think that the first time or two that you really clamped down on that bowl, you would have caused the jaws to break through the rubber. I would guess that the jaws have to have a way to bite in in order to hold the bowl blank, and to do that without marring in some sort of way would be tough.
When I'm turning a bowl using the jaws, I reverse the bowl on the lathe with the vacuum chuck and clean up the bottom anyway, so it wouldn't be helpful to me. But, it makes sense enough to give it a try. Be sure to let us know how it works.

[Michael Ginsberg]

Steve, I wasn't thinking serrated jaws. I was thinking dovetail. If the rubber was making even contact with the wood, assuming the recess or tenon had the matching angle of the jaws, wouldn't it grip uniformally without ripping through because of the even pressure and the rubber being evenly compressed?

Michael

[Steve Braman]

My biggest concern would be getting an even coat on all parts. It might be hard to get it centered.

[Steve Vaughan]

Yup, I was thinking of those jaws too. I was thinking about the pressure on the edges of the jaws pressing through the rubber. And, then again, I suppose it's going to depend on what size piece of wood you're putting in the jaws. A larger piece is going to require you to really tighten down as opposed to a smaller or lighter piece. Another possible issue I would think that will come into play is that rubber stuff being so thick that you lose the dovetail affect of the jaws.

The only thing to to is give it a shot. Be sure to clean all the oil off them things to really get that stuff to stick well.

[Dan Forman]

I think this would only work if the coating was uniform, and the tenon was exactly the correct size to match the fully closed jaws, and the wood was fully dry. If the tenon is any larger, the jaws only contact the wood at the corners of the jaws, which would then cut through the plastic as suggested by Steve. If you are starting with green wood, then the tenon must necessarily be larger, so that it can be trued after it ovals, therefore it would cut through the plastic during the green turning phase.

An additional factor, many soft plastics will leave an oil like stain when compressed against wood, most likely part of the component that makes it soft. I think it's probably best to focus on how to effectively remove evidence of a tenon or recess, rather than to try to leave it unmarked.

Dan

[Wally Wenzel]

I don't know how that would work but i have used the plasti dip making the pins for thejaws on the longworth bowl chucks, you can make a lot of different shapes than what is avaible to really grab on to a bowl.
Wally

[Tim Thiebaut]

When I am finished with a project and need to remount it to apply finish or whatever, I have been taking a wrap or two around the jaws with some Cold Fusion tape, it only sticks to itself and will expand with the jaws when I mount the work piece, dosnt leave any mark on the wood at all, it is activated by streching the tape to wrap it. Once I am done I just peal the tape off the jaws and they are back to normal. Tim

Cold Fusion Tape - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl3gBNJSOvI

[Michael Ginsberg]

I guess it isn't the best idea...Oh well. just wanted some thoughts on it.
Thank you all.