Help with cabinet knobs

[Mark Stutz]

This is probably one of those questions with an obvious answer, but here goes. I need to know what kind of setup to use to turn knobs for the cabinet I'm making. I've been turning about a year, but almost exclusively doing the "fun" stuff like bowls! I've played around with spindle turning, practicing using a skew, but I've never really made much. I'm building a shop cabinet with 8 drawers and want to turn my own knobs. I have absolutely no clue as to where to begin. All the books I have are about bowls. :( Any help in getting me started would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Steve Inniss]

Mark,
I just turn the knobs based on the wood I have(it's shape determines the method.) For more of a "production" approach, maybe this'll help. Please post a pic of the results. -Steve

[Jim Becker]

The method I use is similar to what Steve has posted. Sometime I do multiples, and sometimes just single knobs. But after roughing the spindle round between centers, I tend to chuck the piece in spiggot jaws so I can turn and part off without dealing with the tailstock. This works fine for spindles long enough for two knobs as long as you turn the "outside" one first, leaving all the meat in the spindle inboard to keep it stable.

But unless you specifically choose to turn face-grain buttons, knobs are just spindle turnings and relatively easy to work. Tool control is important since things are so small and you absolutely need to use your calipers or a shop-made diameter guage to insure that critical dimensions are maintained.

It also helps to do a full-scale sketch that you can put behind the spindle for quick and easy reference, especially if you are making multiples.

[Mark Stutz]

Steve,
Thanks. The picture shows just what I was trying to do. Just need more practice. Getting 8 knobs to look close to the same will be the challenge!

Jim,
I thought of doing that but wasn't sure it ws stable enough. How long a piece can you chuck without a lot of vibration at the end?

Mark

[Jim Becker]

Mark, depending on the diameter of the blank, you can easily go 6-8" to start. But you want to cut the knob farthest from the headstock first. Once it's done, you do NOT go back to it. In fact you can part if off before you start the next one. As long as you leave a hefty piece of wood between your work area and the chuck, you will be fine. You want wood to support the turning. It's no different in turning deep bowls and vessels... you don't necessarily take the profile at the bottom down to the final shap/thickness until you're done hollowing as you don't want to suffer from vibration and other more serious problems because the area you are working is unsupported.