Nova DVR XP CHucks

[Keith E Byrd]

Need a little info.
I was turning a larger bowl than I have done before 10" diameter. I was surprized that I was getting a lot of flex or wobble as I was trying to hollow it out. This is on my new Nova DVR XP. Question: is it the size of my chuck? The only chuck I have is the WoodRiver one I got at Woodcraft for $89 I think. Should I be getting any flex or wobble? I had to back off and do very light cuts to minimize the flex/wobble. Do I have something not set up right? I re-seated the bowl in the chuck 4-5 times to make sure it was secure.

I also noticed that after I turned the outside and let it set overnight when I turned it on it was a little out of balance and I had to take a few minutes to true it up.

[Brent Grooms]

sounds like a couple of possibilities..

- your workpiece isnt seated well against the jaw face
- your workpiece is green wood and is warping the tennon/recess for the jaws
- your jaws are not getting the jaws tight

"turned the outside and let it set overnight when I turned it on it was a little out of balance " This statement tells me that you are turning green wood and it is moving on you. This is something to be expected.

[Keith E Byrd]

Thanks for the thoughts but I really put the torque on it to make it tight, turned the tenon to fit the jaws, and it isn't green. The turning is laminated ash boards - been dry a long time.

[Steve Vaughan]

Agree with Brent on the things he mentions. But also, I don't have any experience with the woodriver chuck, and maybe others do, but that chuck would be one of my suspicions as well. And turning the outside, letting it set overnight, then coming back and it seeming to be out of balance - that seems about right, could be green wood, or 'dry' wood that's not really completely dry. Heck, with temperature/humidity changes, you could see that with dry wood.

[Keith E Byrd]

Steve - if I remember correctly you have a Nova DVR? Do you get any wobble in the motor/head when it is not running? I have adjusted the lock pin so that I can use the headstock release handle to change motor positions without loosening the lock pin. With that I do have a little wiggle in the head without the motor running. Could that cause the out of balance or wobble when cutting?

[Bob Haverstock]

Thanks for the thoughts but I really put the torque on it to make it tight, turned the tenon to fit the jaws, and it isn't green. The turning is laminated ash boards - been dry a long time.

Keith,

I have 2 of the WoodRiver chucks and I really think that they are a great value. I recommend that you purchase the larger jaw set to use on the larger wood bowls. The wood maybe taking set from the jaws and flexing. Soon, I'll have a WoodRiver chuck for each set of their jaws.

There is also the possiblity that you need to improve tool choice and presentation. Often times I use a steady rest to stabilize
larger work. I hate it when my project flies out of the chuck.

There is also the possibility that you simply need longer handled tools. Longer handles can be equated to better control. Short handles and deep hollowing often lead to catches, catches can certainly move the work in the chuck.

It reads like you are starting to enjoy larger turnings, be safe.

Bob Haverstock

[John Keeton]

Keith, ALL wood will move once material is removed - even kiln dried wood. There are internal stresses in wood. A piece could be completely straight because the internal stresses are opposing and keeping it straight. Once wood is removed from one side, the stresses cause movement. That is going to happen in a lot of situations, which is why you must complete the rim and leave it alone. Even with dry wood, it is going to move a little. That could account for "wobble." But, flex is a whole different animal, and I am not sure exactly what you mean with that term. If your chuck is secure on the piece, there should not be any "flex" until the piece is thin. Having "wiggle" in the head does not sound right - but, I don't have a Nova DVR, so I don't know.

[Keith E Byrd]

John - can you elaborate on "which is why you must complete the rim and leave it alone."
I don't think I am supposed to get wobble either. I am going to try tonight and tighten the lock pin and see what happens. By flex I mean as I was making a cutting and pushing the tool into the wood I could see the wood "give" or move nad then would vibrate or bounce a little. Lght cuts would get me over this. I am hoping that it is the ock pin was not tight enough.

[John Keeton]

Keith, I don't know the thickness or size of the piece you are turning, but if you are pushing hard enough to cause the piece to flex/bend, your tools may not be good and sharp. I don't put that much pressure on dry wood. When you are roughing a large green blank, then a little more pressure, and a bigger gouge, and more wood removal are sometimes needed.

The way I do a bowl is to complete the outside as much as possible to the final contour, and sand it. It is easier for me to sand at that point because of having the mass of the bowl still there. You don't have to do the sanding at this point - that is your choice. Then, start taking out the inside - about an inch or two in depth, and shape the rim to completion. As you go deeper into the bowl, the stresses and drying will cause the rim to move some. If you attempt to go back to the rim for a finishing cut, it almost always will end in disaster. A catch on the rim will often blow the bowl apart. Not good!

[Steve Vaughan]

Keith, you may have found your solution. I don't think that you're to depend solely on that lock pin to secure the head. I think that lock pin is for the purpose of "finding" (or nearly so) the angles that you'd want to turn that head to work. You have to use the lockpin, located on the left end. Loosen that, then unlock the release handle, move the head to where you need it, then put the release handle back to it's position, THEN TIGHTEN the lockpin on the left end.

You'll need to figure out how tight you can get that lockpin when tightening, as in, how much is enough. When you bring the head back to it's normal position, be sure to align it with the tailstock too. That's not critical if you're not gonna be using the tailstock for that project, but it will be critical if you move from turning in the chuck, then needing to turn using the tailstock.

If you're not tightening the lockpin after re-positioning the headstock then that could be your whole issue right there.

[Keith E Byrd]

Thank you John - I have had a couple of catches "touching up" the rim and your advice sounds right on. I am turning laminated ash about 8 in tall and 10 in diameter. Will resharpen onight before I start.

[John Keeton]

Keith, that is a big chunk of wood! Are you using tailstock support??

[jared herbert]

I agree about doing the rim and then leaving it alone. It doesnt matter how wet or dry the blank or rough turned bowl is. the rim will change shape ever so slightly and sometimes more when you start cutting on it and releasing the internal stresses that the wood has. . I usually try to finish turning a bowl all in one session to avoid this. Even taking a break an going in to get a sandwich will allow enough time for the bowl to change shape. Jared

[Steve Schlumpf]

Sounds like you have a lot of wood hanging off the chuck and without some means of additional support, I am not surprised that you can cause the form to move when taking a cut! This is one of those times when photos would help a lot in explaining your situation...

[Michael Mills]

I have a woodriver chuck also and can find no specs for the jaws. Is it possible the chuck body or jaws are flexing?
With my Nova the unsupported specs depend on the jaws, i.e.. 50mm is 4"d X 6" long, 45mm spigot is 6"d X 10-1/4" long, and powergrip 16"d X 6" long.
Maybe Woodcraft and point you to a set of specifications to determine if you are way above the intended usage for the jaws you are using.
You may also want to check the jaw screws also. Mine came loose but when I mounted the blank and applied pressure towards the headstock to tighten the jaws it appeared all was well.

[Keith E Byrd]

John, I used the tailstock when I did the outside but removed for the inside. I have removed about 2 inches so far.

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Keith;
You have a very nice size bowl on the Lathe and it should be NO Problem for the DVR to handle this. You mention that the Locking Pin is somewhat loose so you can position the head using only the release lever. THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED!
The Locking Pin is to secure the headstock to the ways. If it is not secured the head will move (rotate) and this is definately NOT good.
I have attached a picture of the solution I made to make it easy to release the pin and to lock it again.
Also, have you put a piece of aluminum tape over the slot in the tailstock to prevent dust etc. from getting in there. Also, have you put a little plastic/rubber clear button on the STOP button? This makes it so much easier to register your finger on the STOP button.
Please tighten the locking pin and align the head and tailstock every time you move the headstock. Even the slightest offset will give you out of round holes when drilling, especially with small bits.
Hope this helps, enjoy that wonderful DVR XP.
Peter F.

[Keith E Byrd]

Thank all of you for the tips and guidance.
1. I tightened the locking pin and what a difference that made.
2. My presentation of the tools need some help - I watched videos but I think I will break down and join the local club
3. Turning t he rim first made a big difference.
4. Pete those are some great tiips to you gave on the DVR - I will apply them.
I was able to hollow out the bowl and began sanding. I have some tear outs to try to get rid of but I feel like I learned a lot on this with your help.
Again - thanks to all the Creekers that gave advice
I will post some pics in the next couple of days

[Jim Sebring]

The locking pin on the DVR only needs to be loosened or tightened a half turn. Tightening it more than that will accelerate the wear on the mating parts at the end of the pin.

[John McCaskill]

Hi Keith;
I have attached a picture of the solution I made to make it easy to release the pin and to lock it again.
Also, have you put a piece of aluminum tape over the slot in the tailstock to prevent dust etc. from getting in there. Also, have you put a little plastic/rubber clear button on the STOP button? This makes it so much easier to register your finger on the STOP button.
Peter F.
Good response, but what slot in the tailstock do you need to tape over??? Not understanding that, but I've already done all the rest.
Regards
John

[Peter Fabricius]

John;
The tailstock has a slot in the top near the wheel end where the retainer is placed to hold the threaded rod attached to the wheel. It is a place for dust to collect and that will cause you to have a hard to move piston. Just tape it over with a aluminum tape and all is well.
Peter F.